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DavidW
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Posts posted by DavidW
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If you mean the stuff with the fabric type braid I've found that once cut with a sharp stanley knife and secured with a fuel pipe clip fraying isn't an issue as the clip prevents it.
It's just a cover over the pipe which I suppose makes it resists abrasion better. On the downside it makes it harder to check the condition of the fuel pipes over time.
If you mean the stuff with a stainless braid I've never found a way of cutting it neatly would love to learn. I don't really like this stuff as you have no way of know what the pipe inside it like.
Hope this helps.
David
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Of course, I completely forgot about the the dash/courtesy light switch! I suppose I could get one and try and scratch the symbols off.
Before doing that I'll pull one of the existing switches out and measure to see if farnell have an option. I'll report back with the size in case it helps somebody else in the future.
Thanks
David
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Yes, than is to be able to have the fan off/auto/on via switch in the cab.
I just need to find the right switch.....
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Hi
I'm looking for a 3 way switch to control my electric fan that will fit in the hole I have in the small switch panel to the lower right right of the steering wheel.
Does anyone know where I might get one?
Thanks
David
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Hi
For Christmas I got a new vinyl seat cover to replace the split one on the back rest part of the drivers seat in my early 90.
It now looks like there are actually 2 types of seat.
Mine have a hard plastic back and the newer type has a 1 piece wrap around cover which covers the front and back of the seat.
I can't find the one I need anywhere, so does anyone know where I can get the correct replacement seat cover or if the new one piece cover will replace both parts of my existing cover?
Thanks in advance.
David
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David, i had to do mine aswell, what i did was get the replacements, and then look at the job thoroughly, what i found was that the new ones appeared to be the right size to be placed inside the old ones through the chassis, so, i cut off the old ones at the outer edge of the chassis, then cleaned up the inside of what was left and basically hammered the new inside the old, you clearly need to keep the 'flange' bit upright..... cos you won;t twist it once its in the chassis..!!
I then welded around the outside, and called it quits........ i am however now changing the chassis, i only did the outriggers as a short term job, hence i wasn't maybe as fussy as if i wanted it to last for years and years.......
Hope that helps.
Ron.
Thanks Ron.
I have the bits and I'm hoping as you suggest they will slide inside the existing tube. Sounds pretty straight forward I suppose. Did you have to dismantle anything or was access ok?
David
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Hi
I'm really sorry if this has been covered elsewhere but my searching skills seem to have failed me.
I need to replace both tubular outriggers on my 90 before going for an MOT at the end of the month.
Does any one have a guide, advice or useful links that will help me tackle this?
This will be the first time I've done anything like this so I'm a little nervous.
Thanks in advance.
David
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Depending on where your air filter is and what clearance you have, you may need to cut off about 2" from one end of the bend - I find a carving knife works well on silicone hoses.
D.
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HI
Forgot abou that. It is straight and the old one was bent. You can make the hose reach but it's a bit of a bodge so I also bought these:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290467154313#ht_1095wt_908
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300488953326#ht_943wt_908
I was still happy with the price I paid and fact that I didn't install Britpart.
David
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I've just bought one of these for my 2.5 petrol and am very pleased.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140480659042#ht_2432wt_1141
It costs the same a Britpart item but is genuine and arrived quickly in the most impressive (military style) packaging I've ever seen.
It has the 2 small outlets at the top which I think you need. I had to blank one of these of on my 90.
Hope this helps.
David
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I've just fitted one of the above batteries from Tayna.
It was delivered next day and fitted the defender standard battery clamp perfectly.
Cost was less a standard Halfords battery so I'm very happy.
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I've just done this and used a single mondeo fan in original housing, x-fan controller, in line fuse and a relay.
A small piece of alu strip bolted and riveted at the bottom of the fan housing lets it sit in the brackets where the original fan cowling was.
The mondeo fan is a surprisingly good fit.
I'm going to add an overide and off switch to the cab when I get some more time.
David
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My new thermostat is a standard one which I think opens at 84 degrees.
I checked and it actually opens at 82 degrees.
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I've got my X fan switch and am preparing to fit. The temperature switch that comes with it is 88-83 / 92-87 degrees.
I suspect most of these are sold for diesel engines and I'm wondering if this ok for a petrol engines (which for some reason I have it in my head that they run a bit hotter)?
I think my Mondeo fan is single speed so which contacts should I be using? Or a different sender?
My new thermostat is a standard one which I think opens at 84 degrees. Am I aiming to cool the water to the point the thermostat closes?
Thanks for your help.
David
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Thanks for the advice guys.
Having looked at the cost of the bits I'd need, I've gone for a mondeo fan and x fan controller which seem to be a popular choice.
Quagmire - I do actually quite like the 2.5 petrol engine (but I suppose I do have a another vehicle to go fast in). I can do 65mph on flat bit of road and I suppose it is quite quiet for a defender. Bit thirsty, but I don't go that far in it.
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Thanks I've just bought a single mondeo fan and xfan controller.
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Do you fit the Mondeo plastic cowling as well and does it anywhere match the Land Rover radiator size?
From looking at eBay it looks like some Mondeos had twin fans which would work nicely with the Xfan controller.
David
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Hi All
Firstly, thanks to everyone who posts on here for all the information available. I've managed to answer most of my questions from the first few months of Land Rover ownership just by reading previous posts.
I've had a suspicion that the viscous 4 blade fan on my 2.5 petrol was locked on as it is too stiff to turn when switched off and always seems to be going round making a sound like a plane taking off. Also the engine temp gauge never seems to get that warm i.e. it never reaches the half way up the dial.
I looked in the parts book to check what part I would need to replace and it looks like I may have a fixed fan coupling.
Should I leave it and not worry about unnecessary over cooling (or small loss of performance on my slow petrol), replace with a viscous unit (is it a straight swap?) or fit an electric fan.
All help much appreciated.
David P.S. I will at some point replace the engine when I have more time to spare. For time being it's only done 58k miles and runs very sweetly.
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What would be the best grounds for objecting?
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On another car related forum I use, if you donate, you get a 'contributor' badge on the left next to your name.
It seems to sort of motivate (or perhaps shame) most of the people there into making a donation.
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Reading this again, if the ready made pipes are that cheap they seem worthwhile as the coil of copper you need isn't that cheap to buy.
David
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If you use the kit to form ends on copper pipe use a bit of brake fluid rather than grease or oil to lubricate the mandrel.
I have one of the cheap kits and it works reasonably well with practice although I think the better ones work every time all the time.
You're welcome to have a go with mine if you want?
Off topic: £1k track day hacks, what would you buy?
in International Forum
Posted
As others have said, MX-5 is a very good option.
They're quite light/cheap on consumables as well which will be a factor when used on track.