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Simon_CSK

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Posts posted by Simon_CSK

  1. The towbar has never caused an issue before and I don't leave it in place for fear of getting it stolen. Simonr I like your solution and there are kits available that do similar.

    When this favour was asked I removed a bolt on received hitch as it was not securing properly and kept on working loose. I wish I has just nipped up the bolts and used that instead.

  2. Yesterday evening  my neighbour ask me if I could help my Landlords daughter as her car had broken down with here horse box attached at the back of my house. I said sure and attached the towbar to my 2007 RR Sport. Done this many many tomes and have towed many Range Rovers 1000's of miles without a problem, 

    When I put the towbar on I checked it was located properly my neighbour verified that I did this. We then hooked up the car and started the journey to her stabled. After travelling about 3.5 miles while going up hill I felt the trailer release and roll down hill. The brake away didn't actuate the the trailer headed into traffic but fortunately it avoided everything and came to rest in a field. I recovered my towbar from the trailer.

    The horses were removed from the trailer and were put in a farmers field. The trailer was recovered.

    My first thought was I had done something incorrectly but my friend verified that I had checked the towbar was secure and one of the onlookers confirmed that you cannot remove the key from the towbar unless it it properly attached. 

    Has anybody had a similar experience of the towbar releasing and if so what caused it. I have reattached the towbar and have checked that the pin properly located in the chassis but am really worried about towing with it.

    There were three horses in the trailer all unharmed but it has certainly given me a big fright. My initial thought was the horses has moved and the weight distribution somehow allowed the pin to dislocate from the car. Certainly the pin on the hook was fully extended and locked when I recovered it from  the trailer, 

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  3. 5 hours ago, bishbosh said:

    If you return to the Rr market then hold out for a 4.4TDV8. You will not regret it. Full of electrickery but also full of smiles per mile. Effortless power, comfort, ability etc. etc. I really miss mine 😕 You should easily manage high 20's MPG and many get into the 30's but they perhaps don't explore the engine's potential fully! :D 

    BB

    I get plenty of smiles per gallon with a 3.6 on both the Sport and the Vogue. Having said that my hack is a 4.4 petrol Vogue SE which runs on LPG. That gives me economy, power and a Range Rover to play with.

  4. Are you looking to buy a Vogue or a Sport? I have both and there are both very nice cars and use them daily. My sport is a hack that I have been using for three years without a problem. The issues that the sports have and probably relevant to L322's is that the turbos are a weakness. The weakness is harder to resolve on the sport which requires a body lift to replace. My L322 has been off the road for 2 years with a suspected gearbox fault which turned out to be a popped driveshaft, this isn't the first time I have had this issue on an L322 as my 4.4 petrol SE suffered the same problem at the beginning of the year.

    Fuel wise I get about 21mpg but then I have a very heavy right foot and the car is a pleasure to drive. Prefer the TDV8 to the TDV6 in the sport however a 4.4 or 5.0 on Petrol with LPG is a much preferred option.

  5. One of my L322's has had what appears to be a gearbox issue for the last 2 years and I have posted on here a couple of times. The car has been scanned and has not recorded any faults but will not drive at any speed in gear. The car has had a second gearbox fitted with a recon torque convertor. The gearbox came from a car I have driven for about 3000 miles so know it is a good one.

    I was driving off the trailer on Sunday and it was tightening up so put it in low box and it was much easier. I then drove it around the field for a few minutes and it didn't seem to be a problem. I have just now driven it around the field in low box and it didn't seem to be a problem then changed to high box and the same. Given that I have done much to the main gearbox and the only consistent component left is the transfer box what is the chances the transfer box is the problem? I have at least 3 spare transfer boxes so it isn't a problem to switch one over, the only problem is the weight and restrictions as I don't have a ramp to work under to will be driveway and trolley jack.

  6. 8 minutes ago, L19MUD said:

    Not meant to be offensive but the pictures only show damaged/partially stripped vehicles which is exactly what my local breakers/scrap dealer looks like. Just does not give the right image considering what the car is

     

    Only my 2p. Others may disagree

    No offence taken. I agree about the vehicle and the background however my own place isn't much better and have 9 cars outside that need to be sent to be weighed in. Maybe get round to is before the winter sets in and I cannot get into the field.

  7. On 6/22/2023 at 5:20 PM, L19MUD said:

    vehicle sitting in a scrap yard 

    My brother would be most upset by that comment, It his his place of work and while there are vehicles that look like scrap he stores vehicles and transports them. Doesn't scrap them. Well not many that is.

  8. One guy came to see it. He knew the reserve and I did state that I wouldn't part with it for less. So while strong money I know how much now it is worth to someone but not enough for me to be parted from it. It isn't as bad as I thought it was. When he came to see it I got a chance to look at things more closely that I did when I put it on Ebay. Things for me have dramatically improved on the finance front which was one, if not the major reason for putting it on Ebay. 

    At the end of the day try and find another one? As soon as I have the money from the property I have invested in I will be able to resolve the CSK issue. And will enjoy the time doing so. 

    • Like 2
  9. 21 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

    It's a bit niche, the right person will value it and pay good money but to everyone else it's a hell of a project.

    I'd be sorely tempted myself if I didn't already have a crusty 2-door awaiting restoration :lol:

    There is a 1992 LHD 2 door from Spain Just come up on Ebay. If I had the free cash at the moment I would but it for the shell and be ready to go with my CSK.

  10. At then end of the day if I get what I want for it then I am happy, if I don't then I keep it longer until I can restore it myself then I'm happy. To some extent this is a fishing exercise to see if it will sell.

    The cars listed for sale I have no doubt are in good restored condition and Kingsley are very good at upgrading their cars so what is a concours car with full documented history worth? Even concourse cars very rarely have all the logbooks with the car. Maybe I am overvaluing it and maybe that will disappoint me to some extent but then again I will get an indication of the value others place on it.

    I was told off on Facebook for letting it get in this condition and not letting others enjoy it before it did. My response to that was Whatever. It is my car and ultimately my decision what I want to do with it going forward.

    The advice about washing and listing faults are both very valid and correct. 

  11. 10 hours ago, landroversforever said:

    Have you looked at how bad it is underneath? 

    Just wondering if it could be cleaned up enough to use, and then do it as a rolling resto? Spreads the cost over time.

    Needs a new shell at the very least, Cills, inner wings, slam panel, a pillars and inner wings are dist. Chassis is still good. 

  12. My CSK is causing quite a stir on Facebook but as yet nobody is offering any hard cash.

    When I looked back at my paperwork I have the following history:-

    Original owners logbook

    My logbook on purchase

    My logbook when DLVA went online

    Sales brochure with salesman's notes and registration (Private reg J200CSK)

    Presentation box with certificate sales brochure (pristeen)

    CSK booklet

    A scrawled sales receipt for my deposit

    Various MOT's

    SORN receipt

    The car requires extensive restoration but final value with a good restoration would should be very high particularly with the history and the limited ownership

    I had mention previously what I was offered and someone local said it was worth double that so I haven't a clue what I should be selling it before. I believe it to be unique because of the paperwork and something collector desire. Anybody got any ideas? 

     

     

  13. On 5/14/2023 at 5:12 PM, landroversforever said:

    Might be worth asking what Kingsley Cars or Twenty Ten would give you for it. They may know someone after a CSK. 

    Tried Kingley and they have two for sale at the moment and not looking for more. Who is Twenty Ten?

    Should know at the end of this week how desperate I am to sell it as I awaiting approval of Planning Permission for some land I own. 

  14. Sadly I think I have come to the conclusion that I need to part with my CSK.

    I have had it for 20 years and it is lying rotting. I really do want it back on the road but the practicality or restoring it are distant and becoming more so as time goes on. Given the speciality of the car where is the best place to advertise it? I have contacted Mathewsons but is there somewhere else that may help?

    Don't think this is an Ebay item.

     

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  15. On 4/21/2023 at 4:32 PM, Shem said:

    Hi all, 

    Thought I’d share some of my experience and ask for a bit of a help while i’m at it.

    Bought the 2011 TDV6 Autobiography for my wife around 6 months ago. I was fully aware the car will need some TLC but I’m a sucker for LR (Had a few already) and simply couldn’t say no. 

    I have since done a full service; New oil and all filters, new rear brakes and new General tyres all round. 

    Issues I’m aware of and planning on sorting in the next couple of weeks: 
    Upper, Lower front/rear arms since they make a bit of a racket when turning / going over potholes. Thought I’ll just do them all at once to get it out the way. 

    Issues I’m aware of but not sure if I’ve diagnosed correctly: 
    Car throws a Suspension Fault after a longer drive. C1130-66 Air Spring Air Supply. F O/S Suspension air bag weeping air when hitting pothole, trying to lift to off road mode or after being dropped of the ramp at the garage. 
    I’m assuming it’s best to replace strut and the bag rather than just the bag? 

    AIRCON and FBH dead and will not engage - can’t hear the relay kicking in for either and again OBD fault U0166-00 & 87 Lost communication with Aux Heater Control Module, and B11FF-84 Air Conditioning refrigerant pressure. 
    Any advice on where I should start the investigation? Maybe they are on the same loom? There was an invoice for a regas from 16 months ago. 

    Oil leak from what me and the mechanic traced is a sensor at the bottom of the engine - driver’s side. Would this be the Crankshaft Position Sensor? Doesn’t leave any stains on a driveway so not a massive leak but enough to lose 1/4 of the level over 1k plus miles. 
    Anyone else experienced this? Any tips on replacement? 

    New one today: 
    Whilst driving from Somerset back to Glasgow after fuelling at the services I have noticed a fuel leak coming from the front of the engine - passenger side. Couple of hours later car threw a big RED fault ENGINE SYSTEMS FAILURE, car goes to a limp on M74 and error P062B(00) comes up on OBD - Engine Control Module, Fuel Injector Control - performance problem. 

    I am not going to lie, had a moment when I started typing webuyanycar on my phone but I’m in love with the b*****d thing and willing to complete the repairs and enjoy the car. 

    I’ve no doubt that even though this is a painfully long post, but where else to go for a proper advice than to a lovely group of lads who are as delusional as me?  Wink 

    Forever grateful for responses. 

    The Strut and the Airbag are one unit so just replace the both.

    If it was regassed I would check the pressure on the aircon first.

    Oil leaks on LR are common and if there is no stain then there is no oil leak.

    You will never complete the repairs as new ones will keep reoccuring.

    I am down towards Ayr on the A70 (cannot miss all my Range Rovers) do what everybody else does, knock on my door. Will take the hind legs off you about Rangies lol.

  16. 11 hours ago, L19MUD said:

    Front diff is bolted to left side of the engine with the right side drive shaft going through a hole in the sump

    The front diff on the L322 is a separate unit like the defenders and series but without the half shafts. Drive shafts go out to the hubs. My photo is the connection between the diff and the NS driveshaft. the DS is at an angle the only way that could happen is if the bearing in the diff has collapsed and in this case probably taken out the crown wheel with it.

    • Sad 1
  17. 1 hour ago, Bowie69 said:

    Could be a smashed CV? 

    Good guess. This is what I found when I went out after the rain had stopped..  

    I am more than happy to find it being so simple. Will have it fixed very shortly.

    20230430_172632[1].jpg

    • Like 3
  18. Following my thread about the gearbox on my 4.4 Petrol L322 I have now jacked the car up and listened to the transfer box and the gearbox with the car in drive.

    The front propshaft is turning without any load on the engine and there is a distinct banging even at low speed. I use a screw driver as a stethoscope and listened to the transfer box, the gearbox and the bellhousing and all sounded normal, i.e. there is no bangs. 

    Given that the front prop is turning in line with the engine I suspect the front diff is US. Is my assumption correct?

    The next question is are all diffs on all L322's the same or can I use one from a Range Rover Sport 3.6 TDV8 which I have lying around funnily enough.

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