Jump to content

Simon_CSK

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
  • Content Count

    1,043
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Simon_CSK last won the day on July 7

Simon_CSK had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

28 Excellent

About Simon_CSK

  • Rank
    Range Rovers for life!!

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.Ash-Architectural.com

Profile Information

  • Location
    East Ayrshire, Scotland

Recent Profile Visitors

1,141 profile views
  1. Filip The gearbox was more or less empty amd I left it 48 hours with the sump plug out. Didn't intend to leave it that long just happened that way. So I think I can safely say that the gearbox is now good to go. Only a few more problems to fix with the car and I can put it back on the road.
  2. Progress Oil drained, sump off, filter changed, sump back on gearoil added and cycled gearbox three times with the third time the gearbox wanting to move the car. Next time I am back out I will do the final check of the level, one final cycle and then try and move the car. I take it that the movement of the car is evidence that the gearoil has reached the places that the gear oil needs to reach and that we are not far away from actually getting my car to drive.
  3. A basic one but was the air flow into the turbo cleaned out? When I replaced the turbo on my D2 it was fueled by oil in the intercooler causing the engine to over rev.
  4. Have the kit and oil to to service the box on my 4.6 P38. When I look at the service book it says the capacity of the gearbox in 11.5 litres. When I look at the sump it doesn't look like it has the capacity to take all of that oil. I am guessing that the oil capacity is therefore distributed amongst the gearbox, torque converter and sump. If that is the case then I am also guessing that the gearbox needs topped up with the engine running. Can someone give me the procedure in a simple list please? Thanks.
  5. Do any of us running a V8? The solution is LPG. I am a big fan of LPG and have run many RR's on it over the years. On the Disco 2 you have the option to run with sill tanks so you don't loost the boot capacity. While I remember the other thing to look for when cranking and not firing is a knackered fuel pump. In this unstance a couple to shape smacks to the fuel tank can sometimes restart it. Simon
  6. I stand corrected. you are totally right the wings not the doors are notched. I don't have my car in front of me to look at it.
  7. Dave you will be forever learning.
  8. Enen I am not sure that you absoutely require the puller. I am sure the wheel comes off without it. The thread will be either M8 or M10 and a metal bar with a couple of holes at the right centres and some long bolts with nuts or threaded rod will do the same job.
  9. The outer door panel on the exposed hinge is notched around the hinge and I suspect but don't know for sure that the hinge mountings on the door itself will be different to accomodate the different hinges.
  10. Filip I had the AA check the voltages on the pedal and all registered fine. On one occasion they sprayed solvent cleander on the ECU plug and ECU which cured the problem for a couple of hours.
  11. Dave Starter solinoid is a common issue on my Discovery 2. Regularly I have crawled under to twiddle with the ignition wire. I have bought a rebulid kit which works until the next time.
  12. Ford Corsair 2000E (Passed my test in this) Triumph Toledo (for 2 hrs) Ford Escort MK2 1.3 Ford Capri MK2 1.3 Ford Fiesta MK1 1.3 Ghia (Police car ran into the back of me) Vauxhall Chevete 1.3 (Inherited from my mother due to the Fiesta accident) Opel Manta GT(Paid for by the police) Opel Kadett 1.2 Opel Kadett 2.0 GTE Ford Escort XR3i (Written off) Ford Fiesta XR2 (Stolen) Ford Capri 2.8i Awsome speed. Montego Diesel Porcshe 944 78 Range Rover with Transit Diesel Engine (Great into to Range Rovers) 85 Range Rover 3.5 Honda Civic (Ex Wifes company car) 87 Range Rover with 3.9injection conversion and later converted to Auto. 91 Range Rover CSK (Still have and plans are afoot for a full restoration) Audi A3 (Ex Wifes company car) Freelander V6 ES 05 Freelander HSE TD Auto (First new car did 54k in two years) Volkeswagen 1.0 (Ex Wifes Car) 57 Freelander 2 HSE Auto 57 Honda Civic (Bought for my ex wife) 55 Honda Jazz (Ex wife inherited from mother when money ran out) 99 Range Rover Vogue 4,6 55 Ford Mondeo (Finances ran dry due to divorce and recession) 01 Discovery TD5 (Still have and uses every day, Chassis rebuild 195k and counting) Range Rover 4.6 HSE 01 Range Rover 4.6 Vogue (Still have and hope to have back on the road very shortly) 07 Mini Cooper Convertible (Still have but needs the gearbox replaced) 99 Discovery 2 ES (Ran until the gearbox went and then used as a donor for my 01 Discovery) That doesn't include the 7 Classic Range Rovers I have bought and broken for spares or the 5 P38's that have gone the same way or the two Disco two's
  13. Phil Thanks that is useful and will replace that next weekend regardless. There does appear to be an oil track down the face of the oil pump.
  14. Yes the pulley was back on but the oil is still coming out of the front. Not as bad as before. The oil is a steady flow and certainly looks like it is coming from the front pulley however any photos of the oil rings would be appreciated.
  15. Got a new seal and it didn't change a thing. However I did need to take the seal out after I had fitted it so is it possible that I have damaged the new seal? The oil litterally flows out the end of the crank shaft. To make sure that was where the leak was coming from I started the engine with the bottom pulley removed. Was surprised how easy the job to change the seal was.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy