uninformed
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Posts posted by uninformed
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The plot thickens..... From the parts manual linked on this site, it has:
FTC2104 listed as "V8 Basic" for R380 and points to the picture of the oil cooler type housing
FTC2104 listed as "Block oil extension case" for the LT77 and points to a picture of the non oil cooler type housing (just a cast loop)...
They also list another FTC2687 for "V8 Cooled"
I have that FTC2687 in another offical parts book as for "V8 oil cooler (air cooled)" and "BMW M52 6 cylinder".
in that book it has FTC2104 listed as "V8 except oil cooler (air cooled)". Both are pointing to picture of the oil cooler type housing...
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Thanks, I already have one. No part number or any number stamped on it and im not sure what it came from. That thread you linked was preety inconclusive. I did search before posting but could not find anything
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hey all,
is there any external or internal difference between the FTC1404 housing for a lt77 and the FTC2104 housing for the R380?
cheers
Serg
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The simple answer is NO.I think once again the main difference is the type of use that the vehicles are subjected to,Roberts vehicle is mainly used to travel at speed doing rally type driving,where Iain has his set up as a multi purpose vehicle.As a touring vehicle it worked well,BUT as soon as he has tried to use it on anything challenging,like our afore mentioned sandstone/shale rock steps/boulders,the portals are just not up to the job.The situation has got to the point where they have now been removed from the vehicle.A very expensive learning experience.I did try and advise Iain a long time ago,that there was an inherent design fault and that all the fancy mods that people were advising him to do to the vehicle,wasn't going to rectify the situation,as the Maxi drive portals operate correctly without having to add all sorts of fancy mods.Unfortunately too many people have these fancies about mods,and Iains situation was the perfect opportunity for them to get someone else to build in these mods and see how they worked,without them having to spend any of their own time and money.
Or maybe some were just trying to help.
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dont forget that the MD crawler gears are available in either 30% or 49% lower low range.
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here you are Bill
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So you are using 14" stroke dampers on a mount designed to use 11" stroke dampers? Does the damper not bottom out long before the axle touches the bump stop? I would have thought this would be an issue especially during articulation
Designed for one brand of 11 inch dampener maybe. There are so many different length shocks in one travel size, that doing the reasearch can lead to finding a shock that will work. For example, the lengths on Bilstein 7100 and 9100 (both standard or short body, just compare same) both in say a 12 inch shock. Both are from Bilstein USA, both have the same travel yet the 7100 is much shorter.
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Hey all,
it has been posted on another forum that the early 110s, i.e. 1985-87, with load leveller had a longer ball joint at the rear axle housing to A frame. I have never seen this anywhere before and cant get any specifics from the owner. He is 100% but does not like being asked for pics or part numbers etc....
I have confirmed he is talking about the actual ball joint and not the bracketry.
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Tetu0san is right about the lift pump. I've had a Delphi one for my 200tdi before also.
The other point about OEM is that very often, OEM is not the same as genuine. Daan made this point earlier, I've found it before with items and it's discussed in my bush replacement thread, plus others have mentioned it in discussions regarding props and UJs. So, even if britpart and bearmach state OEM, it's not necessarily the same quality as genuine.
Post #105
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Jeff, I mean like plumbers fittings, that when done up with a wrench compress on the tube. Usually you slip on a hollow nut, then a "olive" then the fitting. DO the nut up on the fitting and it seals againt the olive and the olive beds into the tube.
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I could possibly give LRA a call and see if they note any difference when machining Genuine vs AM?
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thanks guys. I certainly can not knock it as it has never given trouble for its intended purpose. As far as feild service of modifying, it sucks.
JeffR, did you ever try external compression fittings?
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IMO I would not waste money on reflectors and bulbs. The problem is not them, it is the wiring. I added better bulbs etc and the improvement was maginal at best. Later I installed a Traxide Headlight upgrade kit and that made the biggest difference of all. Even the original bulbs were much better than the old set up with better bulbs.
http://www.traxide.com.au/headlight-wiring-kits/headlight-wiring-upgrade.html
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thanks guys,
Red90, ive found that most metal tube is sized OD and flexable hoses ID. I take it becasue the nylon is hard it is OD?
Does it require a special barb end to seal on (ie. like the end that goes on to the sedimenter fitting) . LR have simply pushed it on with no hose clamp, and the ends look like a single barb, unlike the "pushfit" hoses by Aeroquip, Aeroflow etc that use a mulit barb for push on, no clamp.
Along the LR nylon tube, at some point, I have to cut it, run a fitting for the new line to attach to. New line and fitting should not be a problem, I just want to make sure the new fitting going into the LR nylon tube will seal and not give trouble.
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That statement is not correct, as I have found many times. An OEM manufacturer could well be making genuine parts, but their OEM part is not the same. This is because the genuine part has to pass rigorous testing, but the OEM part doesn't.
I have been on a tour through the monroe factory once; they made shock absorbers for landrover. They showed the line for genuine parts, they were coloured black.
Then they showed the oem line, the shocks were coloured yellow and looked totaly different. I dropped the question as to why they were different. The answer was that the genuine parts have to pas difficult tests, the oem doesn't.
The same for Bosal making exhausts for mercedes, but also the aftermarket exhaust for a quarter of the price.
I recently replaced my Quintin Hazel waterpump for the genuine part, and the sealing looked completely different.
Genuine is by far the best quality I am afraid.
I think the genuine part is a forging, where as the cheapo one is cast. I stress the word 'think', but it would be good to get to the bottom of this.
Daan
I agree, but will add with the likes of Timken and Corteco, that buying them in their own branded boxes seems every bit as good as buying them in genuine LR boxes.
As with a lot of parts though, OEM is NOT genuine. This is where people either get it wrong or are confused. OEM simply stands for "Original Equipment Manufacture" but that does not automatcily mean they are the OEM of the part in your hand for the vehicle you are fixing.
Sometimes it does, but many times it doesnt.
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Hello
No, I have never fitted a swivel ball that was supplied in a genuine land rover parts bag.
However, seeing as there are not various qualities of swivel available, we have to assume the ones supplied are up to the job.
For instance oil seals are available in usually 3 qualities: budget, premium and genuine
Budget are budget. When they leak, you blame yourself for buying them.
Premium are the same as genuine, but in a Corteco box not a land rover bag, so they are half the price.
Regard a swivel ball, there is only one quality, so maybe we are talking bad batch or bad manufacturer.
I'd be surprised but relieved to hear there was more than one manufacturer.
I have at least 5 swivel balls in store at the moment and I know for a fact they have different casting marks/machining inside of them
You would assume a manufacturer would have the same casting each time? Can't see them all being sand cast these days?!
Shop4Autoparts seemed to have jumped on the LR bandwagon recently, I wonder who they are, they seem to sell decent stuff very reasonable, I bought a few bits, LT230 gasket set and they made a point of selling a Viton seals option, also pad retainer set for approx £1.50, tremendous, and proper split pins with flattened end, you don't get that from Britpart.
I Would have to disagree on the one manufacture for the swivel balls idea. If there are aftermarket companies making cheap CV joints, then a swivel ball is a no brainer (i.e. not as complex to make) There is a market there for them and many other parts that would be made by different companies.
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Hey all,
Can anyone tell me the ID of the stock LR Defender 110 300Tdi fuel line. I think it may be 5/16 but not sure. Im also thinking since it is so hard that if I pull it off the barb at the sedimenter that it wont seal when pushed back on.
cheers
Serg
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@ Mr Noisy, re your post #91, I take it the new swivel balls on that Disco were NOT genuine?
Also I think it is important to state the difference between Genuine and OEM. I hav found that for a product to be branded OEM, only means that that company making said product has to make a product (any) for the auto industry. That is to say, company X may make part A for companies like LR but get to sell part B as OEM even though they do not make part B for any auto manufactures.
Then of coarse there are the parts that are not even sold as OEM...they tend to be the carp.
I have a new pair of these sitting on my work bench : http://www.shop4autoparts.net/Defender/Axle/Drive-Shafts,Hubs-&-Swivels/frc7065-swivel-housing-dstep-oem.html
All I can say is the company that machines them for castor rotation says they are F hard... I hope they are not these carp dangerous items. Ill have to dig a little deeper before I run them as mine is a daily driver towing up to 2 tonne...
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Just to keep everything together
has anyone tried these?http://www.outbound4x4.co.uk/shop/exterior-accessories/lighting/defender-led-sidelights
They do stop and tail too - seem to be the only ones I can find from a known company as it were rather than taking a punt on ebay.
Thoughts and feedback appreciated as always?
Taffia
Looks like just globes. No way was I waisting money on my crappy LR fittings and cracked, faded lenses. From everything I can gather, the new complete LED units (either Wipac or RDX) are better built all round, sealed unit meaning more water proof.
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I guess there is only one way to find out...
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FWIW my WSM states 60ft/lb or 82Nm for the caliper mounting bolts.
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this link may help. I used the info on it to double check calipers I had that were unkown to me.
http://www.brakepartssuperstore.org.uk/contents/en-uk/d7648.html
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Ok, I just edited my profile to add my location
No MOT here, and my trailer light has not worked for many years. The OEM LR flasher relay failed early on. When we looked at it, it looked like something from a doctor who tv prop. My be a good concept, but very poorly made. Infact, in summer here, you pretty much can not see the warning lights on the dash in the day time. Poor design and tiddle poor globes/electrics make sure of that...any way, I digress.Id like to keep it simple. Will the Wipac unit make the new LED indicators work, along with the standard bulb type in the rear. I also tow and my trailer has LED lights...
If the RDX unit is simply better quality, im happy to go that way.
Are the RDX lights better quality than the Wipac?
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Hey all, sorry if this has been covered already.
A few questions:
Is there any difference between Wipac S6060LED : http://www.wipac-aftermarket.com/acatalog/Side_Rear_Fog.html
and Wipac AMR6514LED : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-90-110-130-WIPAC-LED-FRONT-SIDE-LIGHT-73mm-AMR6514LED-/261325720866
Regarding installing indicators in LED, I see I have to change the flasher relay? Is the Wipac unit ok or do I believe the info in the following ebay link and only buy RDX?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390722018504?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
cheers
Serg
has anyone tried these?
Defender Tdi dash warning lights
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Hey all,
Is there any up grade to this area? (aside from LED globes)
I just went to put LED globes in mine and see the abortion of a design. My circut board (if thats what you call it) is corroded and missing copper sections. Of course being open to the elements is not great (well done LR!)
cheers
Serg