bill comer

or actually open the door from the inside. I have got the card 3/4 off & I can see the door lever moves the linkage near the lock but nothing happens.

My '52' reg TD5 has central locking. One of the rear passenger doors will not open from inside or out. Any idea how I get inside the door to investigate/fix the problem ?

I used rolls bought off the tinterweb. It takes practise, a good few mistakes but you get there in the end. Watch the videos & tip - you can not use too much soapy water. I did the rear passenger seats in medium & the rear in (I can't see through) dark. I actually left the rear main window for ease of reversing. The rear little oval lights are a pain. I left all the windows in. Start with big windows to practise on.

Jen, I have a full set of Scenic seats you can have for a suitably small fee. I was going to do this mod but ran out of time before a Spain trip so went the Exmoor route. I have atacked them with an angle grinder in prep for fitting them to a frame but I think they are still good to use. Bolton based. Regards, Bill

PS - I mean the second row seats

My son is a strapping 6'2" & for a long time has complained that the rear seat belt coil sticks in his shoulder. Is there a kit to relocate it or has anyone done this themselves. I have a 2002 110 td5

excellent task, So I take it they have no issues with older vehicles then ? Have a good trip _ fancy doing Eastern Europe too sometime.

I have just noticed that the RAC now have a restriction on age of 5 years. For anything over that there is a surcharge. Now my defender is 11 years old & was OK last year so they must have just changed this. Just wondering who you are using this year. Not an issue for us this year as the little thing is staying at home but next year we were planning on going to Austria.

cheers Tanuki, I have also seen suggestions to use building flashband such as this from B&Q

I have a 2002 TD5. I have put dynamat in the footwells & doors & it is definitely better. I still have some areas on the inside to do but I was thinking about the bonnet. The bonnet has no insulation at all unlike my mates two Tdis. So I was wondering if anyone has put dynamat xtreme on the underside of the bonnet. I am sure it will stick on fine but will it be OK when I sit in a traffic jam in the south of france ? There are plenty of youtube videos of people doing it in the good old USofA so I am guessing it should be OK, but I do not want melting bitumen all over my engine.

a solenoid sorted it, & despite a few postings that it was difficult to change it was actually very easy. No need to fight behind the metal work. Just undo the linkage at the top, undo the two screws & it plops down, then just disconnect the electrics & reverse the procedure.

just been playing some more & reasonably sure it is the solenoid

Hi all, I have a 2002 TD5 110. Door lock wise it has been (unusually) fine this winter but the car alarm went off twice yesterday. In the past I have had problems with frozen locks especially on the drivers side but so far not this winter. Investigating today I have found that when using the plip the car locks but the drivers door still opens. If I lock the drivers door manually using the lever then the door locks properly. Taking the card off & watching what is going on I can see that when I use the plipper the lock lever mechanism is not moving as much as if I manually push the top lever. Does this sound like a duff solenoid Or do you think it needs a bit of twiddling with the lever linkage ?

IIf you are still in need of info I wrote this up after my installation. http://owtbutwork.blogspot.co.uk/2011/11/heated-windscreen-for-landrover.html

A bit late but thought I would follow up on this. It turned out my issue was with my battery. One of the pillars was 'wobbly' causing an intermittent issue mainly affecting the alarm/immobiliser which clearly did not like being disconnected. Understandably as I guess it thought it was being nicked. Anyway, a good few £££s investigation and a eventually a new battery sorted it out.