duncmc

Excellent. Thanks.

Hi all. I am starting to plan for taking my engine out to strip/rebuild it. And I have googled how much the engine weighs, but have only found the 3.5V8 carb. Does anyone know how much the 3.9 Efi weighs with all the assemblies still on? I am thinking of engine stands, and what size trailer (load) it will go onto. Thanks. Duncan

That used to be a trick with Rubbick's cubes! Worth a go and easy. Thanks.

Yes, no creak then. I did not bash it, I made myself a little puller for removing the wheel. My first attempt yesterday was too flimsy and just bent (only made with 2mm steel), so I made one out of a bit of 6mm flat bar today. Even though I didn't clout it, that doesn't mean someone else hasn't in the past. I was thinking that it must be the column that has moved a bit. So does that mean a replacement column is needed, or can I get it to "uncollapse"?

I have an annoying creak whenever I turn the steering wheel. It is the back of the steering wheel rubbing against the column shrouds. I have taken the plastic shrouds off and refitted them making sure it is in the right place, and replaced the missing screws, but it was still creaking. So I removed the steering wheel and put it back, again no difference! You can actually see where the plastic has worn away so it must have been doing it for some time before I got the vehicle. I am thinking that I need to look at the column itself next to see if that has been pushed in towards the bulkhead slighly next. Has anyone else experienced this problem or got any ideas? Thanks. Range Rover Classic 1993 Vogue.

That could explain my increased oil leak then! LOL Still I will be fixing it anyway.

Hi Graham, I have put 10/40 oil in mine. I looked at the handbook and manual and just choose an oil that would work in our temperature range here in the UK. I am sure that other people will put different oil in. I set my plug gaps to the gap in the manual. It has been suggested to run them a bit closer for LPG, but i haven't yet. Sorry not sure about tyre presuures. I would think that it will depend upon the load rating of the tyre, and what load you run the car at. I have 205's on my RRC.

All you will need for the electrical stuff is a multimeter and the LR workshop manual. There is not a diagnostics port, it is all done the old fashioned way of testing circuits, voltages, currents and resistances at whatever point the manual indicates I believe from reading the manual. Mine is a 1993 vogue 3.9 auto with LPG, so welcome to the club!

I thought so. Last week I folded back the carpet and cut the soundproofing as Bowie said. The carpet is now nearly dry, and the car has been sat in my garage since then, but tonight I noticed a bit of very wet loose foam soundproofing hanging down from the area just above the steering coloumn where it disappears into the bulkhead. Tomorrow I should get the welding on my sill finished and I can then get that bit back together before I start to look at the inner wings. And to do that I am going to take the bonnet and scuttle off so i can get a real good look at the upper half of the bulkhead and the areas around the bonnet hinges as Range Rover Blues suggested. The bottom half of the footwell is sound, only a little surface rust where the damp has just started to get under the paint and seam sealant. the underside of that area is good too.

Good result. I will bookmark this to do on my '93 when I get onto the electrics. I too have a '93 that doesn't idle too well on petrol but is fine when LPG. Thanks for the tip.

Aluminium strip is already out. It started to tear where it was stuck underneath the gear tunnel trim around the transfer lever, down on the side. Definately no other screw thing there. I did try levering the centre console up a bit with a screwdriver to help get carpet out from under it, b ut no joy. As you say the main thing is that the sponge bit is out. Thanks for the help.

I haven't got the carpet out, but I did get the wet soundproofing out after cutting it along the line where the ecu cable runs. I found 1 plastic screw carpet retainer, which I removed, but the carpet would still not come out, in fact it did start to tear so I left that.

Have you looked at www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk? Good info on there to help with identification.

I have just been having another look, and checking through my old LR RRC workshop manual as well as the newer version. The carpet does go underneath the centre tunnel console on mine, and appears to be one piece including both sides. So it does look like the centre console has to come out.I might get away with leaving the seats in, but they are easy to get out in comparison. Strangely I do not have any of those plastic screw things at the front, unlike in the back? Good idea to cut the insulation though. Thanks for the ideas for the leak, it looks like it is just the drivers footwell that is wet though. And at the moment I still have the Defender for deep water.

My front drivers footwell carpet and soundproofing is very wet, so I need to remove it to dry it and to find/fix the water ingress. It looks like the carpet goes under the centre tunnel over to the passenger side? So it is looking like I might as well take both front seat out and the centre console to fully clean and dry the lot. Does anyone know how much I have to dismantle to remove both the carpet and the soundproofing? 1993 RRC Vogue auto. Thanks

Excellent. Thanks for the replies. Will be on the list to do then as soon as I finish the welding repairs.

My 3.9 V8 EFi in my RRC has done 154k miles. Before I got it at 136k it had new valve springs, a decoke and the valves reground. As far as i know though it has not had a new camshaft at all. So I expect to have to do engine work relatively soon, even though it runs ok it is down on power compared to other 3.9's I have had. My question though is this, am I correct in thinking that the engine has to come out to change the camshaft? And how easy is it to take the engine out? I am thinking to get a reasonable 2nd hand unit to put in whilst the original is rebuilt.

All done. Thread lock used.

That's what I thought too. I just need to clean the grease out of the holes, then I i'll put thread lock on I think. I had one come out on me once on my last Range Rover years about 15 years ago! That was greased.

Last night I started to changed my rear pads and discs on a RRC '93 with ABS. The disc were in a dreadful state! (got one side done) Anyway, I was sure that the brake calliper to hub bolts should have had loctite on, but they had copper slip, as had the drive member bolts. When I looked in both my Landrover publications- a 93 and 95 workshop manuals it does not mention threadlock for these bolts. Only for the disc to hub bolts. What is the general opinion? Should the brake calliper bolts be greased or have thread lock? (gone back with grease for now)

I have discovered that the air conditioning is not original factory equipment but fitted by Davia back in 1996! That explains why we couldn't find it. Fans still not working, so I wonder if the relays are going to be where Land Rover put them?

I couldn't find it either. I can't even see it in wiring diagrams. As you say just the two resistors already mentioned. Strange.

No, sorry Ralph. I don't think that is it either. That is the resistor pack buried under the dash I think. I had to change one of those on my last Range Rover, and it didn't look like this one. I think I will be repairing it. It has no moving parts, so just needs opening up and a new terminal crimping or soldering onto the relevant wire coil. Thanks anyway.

I am not sure that AEU1747 is it. That seems to be associated with the evaporator/blower assembly end. The part I am looking for is at the condenser end. My chassis no is in the KA series too. It could be it though especially if someone has modified the wiring in the past.

I have hunted through Microcat, but not managed to find it. Can anyone point me to the part number for a resistor pack which was mounted near to the front offside headlight under the slam panel just in front of the air conditioning condensor. I think it is for controlling the fan speed. One of the tabs has corroded through, could explain why the aircon is not working. Vehicle is a K reg 1993 Range Rover Classic 3.9 auto. Thanks.