duncmc

So far about 25% of the nuts/bolts since I have had it have had the angle grinder treatment. The problem is it won't get at the castellated nut.

Yep, split pin came out whole. I will give it another go with heat and releasing fliud tomorrow night. I have found a supplier for Plusgas in the centre of Birmingham about 10 miles from me. I might just try the 3 in 1 stuff though as I can get that nearer to me. Then if it still doesn't move it'll be the impact gun which I can get on, I checked earlier. Failing that a lump hammer and ring spanner.

My Dad is always saying to use Plusgas, he used to use it at work. I must get some. I just need to find a local supplier. Thanks Western, I agree better to be safe than sorry.

I decided to make it a bit easier to weld up my inner chassis rail around the rear shock mount, so I thought I would take off the A-frame and do the bushes and ball joint at the same time. And clean everything up and paint them whilst at it. I haven't got very far though - can't even get the castelled nut undone yet!!!!! It is bending my lever bar. So I am going to soak some more, heat it up, use more WD40, and then try again. My question is should I try my impact gun? I don't really use it. Will it be ok to use on the standard Chrome Vanadium 30mm socket that I cut down to fit into the recess? And if it is that tight will that shift it anyway, or just wip round on me. (I had that happen to me before Christmas with a big core drill and break my hand so am a little wary now).

The latest is that Toolstation have had a batch of paint which was not black and they are going to replace it for me with a tin from a different batch. I can collect it from the store on Monday, and the store will open it first to check. They did offer me my money back too. Result.

Now that looks painfull. The black will probably be bits of the disc and whatever you where grinding mixed in with bits of mushed tissue. Is your tetanus upto date? Might be worth letting a doctor look at it as you don't want it to get infected, just to check. Shouldn't the picture say "attached fingernail" not thumbnail!?

ChrisB, that's just what I need to show them. Must definately be a mis labelled tin then. I painted a piece of metal tonight with it, went on silver-grey. See what it dries like in the morning.I don't think it is going to be black somehow. No reply from Toolstation today as they promised.

I sent an email complaint to the company, and I got this reply; " I have put this through to be investigated at our depot. They should have a resolution for this issue by tomorrow and someone will contact you in reference to this. " I did mix it very thoruoghtly but it stayed grey. I will try painting something to see how it dries.

Mine has also already had a new rear crossmember, so its like James' in that it is what that is attached to. I haven't done anymore yet other than put my overalls on, crawl underneath and look at it and wonder. I think I might take out the rear floor to get better access, and remove the rear propshaft and the upperlinks/A frame. Then I can properly check the rest of the rear chassis, clean it and paint it. So, not a quick job, but it needs doing. I need to write a new shopping list.

I bought some black paint from Toolstation this week, to paint over my chassis repairs. The catalogue descirbes it a hammer finish black. When I opened the tin it is metallic grey. So I took it back this morning, and they say that is the colour of the black paint! What more they can't give me my money back or exchange it because I have opened it! Be warned if anyone was thinking to try this paint - definately not black.

Thanks Ian, and Les. I have a sneaky feeling that the hole on mine will end up to be rather big too. I might have a look today.

Today I was cleaning all the horrible sticky oil off the rear chassis on my 90 near where I needed to do some welding(my first ever). I got carried away and found another area of severe corrosion around the bolts that hold the rear shock mount in place on the inside of the chassis rail. Before I start on this area does anyone know if the bolt holes are re inforced with tube? In other words how complicated is this area going to be to fix? It will be bad enough because as well as the 3 bolt holes there is the rotten brake braket and the rotten body support bracket. Today I was just welding a small area on the bottom face of the chassis rail.

Perfect! Thanks Western. I didn't find that on the forum search. Brilliant.

I have had my Defender 1 month now. Although I expected that a 1996 90 would probably have a rotten chassis I did hope that most of it would be ok. The rear cross member has been replaced and it has had other bits at the rear patched. Today I found more that needs doing just in front a previous patch, so I need to get a MIG and learn to weld. I know that I will eventually fit a new galzanised chassis, but I want to get the mechanics up to scratch first. I did not expect though that the body would be so bad, lots of corrosion on the alloy too. Can the longitudinal supports in the rear tub be replaced easily? The rear floor has rotted through in just a couple of small holes so that needs to be replaced too. Is it a job to be done with the tub off? Or is it even scrap? Are the cross members steel? I have only ever done mechanical stuff before, never body work or welding so any advice is much appreciated. Thanks.

About 25P! Pitty I don't need more, I know now for next time.

I bought 2 brass plugs off e-bay for £4.00 plus P&P. I did do the radiotor one whilst at it, that came undone easily thankfully.

Thats a good idea. Only wished I had took the housing off first then caught all the bits.

The green coolant was in when I bought it. The other 1995 300tdi defender that I had also had green coolant. The stuff I had in to top up was blue. It is just an ethanol free coolant with protection for aluminium engines meeting the spec in the handbook and workshop manual. So now it is greeny-blue.

I am glad that I did take the thermostat out now, quite a lot of debris that I would have missed. And I had a slight drip from the bottom of the top hose onto the elbow anyway. Just to top up coolant now, then carry on with what I was going to do today.

Thanks Western. Some muppet had stuck it in with Hylomar or similar!. I have got it all out now. I think I might just take the thermostat out though to be sure no bits have been missed.

This morning I thought I would fix the small leak from the plastic bleed screw ontop of the thermostat housing on my 300tdi. Snapped right off didnt it! Does anyone have any quick ways to rmove the remains? I am currently digging it all out. I have tried a big screwdriver, tapping it round, biggest screwdriver i can wedge in, but it is just all breaking up. Luckliy I have a brass one ready.

I changed mine last week, and had the same thing. I had an educated guess based on the engine number that I needed the shorter one. The belt that came off was the longer belt, so the wrong one had been fitted. Now I am squeel free.

Thanks Western. That makes sense now. STC of course being a part number, I can see it now. E for exchange. Cheers.

Thanks Western, its definately a "T", I have the full res version and there is an obvious difference between the "T" and the "7". Thanks.

I have discovered that the LT230 transfer box on my 90 has been replaced with a genuine service exchange unit at some point in its past. Is there any way from the model no ST08692E and serial no TB00677 to find out when it was reconditioned or its ratios? Thanks