Roverdrive
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Posts posted by Roverdrive
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I had a similar issue after fitting the LOF clutch pedal spring to my 300 tdi. It would go straight to the floor and not return. Note that this was just changing the spring on a working system. I needed to fit a stop bolt to the forward face of the pedal box to stop me pressing the pedal to far and allowing the spring to to too far over centre. I believe some pedal boxes may already have this adjustment.
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Anyone for SATs?
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On 7/23/2021 at 6:19 PM, steve b said:
Yeah , that was my point - why bother putting them up with all the same "fill in blanks text" and then stick names on them ?
Anyhoo , that's most likely web designer stuff slipped through proof check , more interested in the product .
I know the guy starting up the business and got him to send an actual photo. He has been quite busy getting set up and making tools etc. Hopefully you can see the end product clearly
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When checking the radiator fins look on the back side nearest the fan as that is where they tend to rot. The front can look perfect.
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Any update Nige?
looking to move to LED in the future and while I like the look of the trucklites I certainly can’t afford them
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PL
My vehicle is a 300 Tdi. The drawing I normally use is probably the same as yours for the 1997 MY.
In my hunting for info, I found a drawing which indicated it was for a 200 Tdi which did not have the relay, hence my question. Needless to say I can’t find that on line drawing now!
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Stuart
Has it ever worked properly?
Have you done any work on it recently if that is the case?
is the key returning properly to the “ignition on” position after starting?
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Vulcan
Thanks for that. The only drawing I could find seemed to indicate there was no additional relay between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid hence the question. I’ll rewire the existing then, just ordered the correct colour cables.
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I’ll have to check tomorrow, but I think it is for an alarm sounder which is normally mounted behind the headlight.
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Nope talking about the starter motor solenoid
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Ok difficult to know what you mean by lighting up fully without seeing it. Do you mean full brightness ie brake light? If that is the case you probably have the side light and brake light wires the wrong way round. If the 200tdi is the same as the 300tdi, the main feeds come in to the right hand side rear corner l and loop across from there to the left hand side.. check the cable to the left hand side is connected to the bullet connection in the right hand side.
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Cheers for that PL. I am happy with the wiring to change, the question was more a case of if the ignition switch is up to the task of directly operating the starter solenoid rather than using a relay. The existing alarm has already been ripped out along with the 10as by the previous owner(s).
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A quick question regarding the starting circuit on the 300tdi. Is it necessary to have the relay under the fuse panel, or is this purely for the immobiliser system? I know he earth of the relay is switched via the immobiliser. The wiring has been chopped about on my vehicle already so I was wondering if this could be removed to help trace an intermittent starting problem. As far as I can see the 200tdi does not have this relay, can anyone confirm this?
cheers
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Good to hear a happy ending!
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The attached drawing shows the light fed from the black/ red and a black for earth. A bit misleading as on my 1997 vehicle, he light is part of the switch as shown by Western above. Hope this is of some assistance in tracing what you need
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As far as I can remember, my hazard light switch illuminates, all be it dimly, and is easy to miss if you are not aware of it. I think that and the single dash lamp flash together. Can’t check at the moment as I am away from my vehicle
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Just to add my tuppence.
i used genuine polybushes on both my 88” coiler and later on my RRC for trials and they lasted the time I had the vehicles, with the exception of the panhard rod bushes which needed changing every couple of years.
my present 110 has the blue super pro bushes which have been on for two years now, without replacement.
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Did you put the correct thickness head gasket back on? It should be easy to turn not tight in places, unless of course you have the injectors in when you will feel resistance as the compression increases.
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On 5/15/2020 at 11:20 PM, dave88sw said:
Hi,
I'm hoping to get some painting done tomorrow, the paint i've bought is from the paintman, i've got a tin of grey primer and a tin of white top coat. I've used the top coat straight over sound paint in the past with just a good key of the surface, it seems to take about 3-4 hours to touch dry but at least overnight to really set. Can anyone give me an idea of how long i need to let the primer dry before i key it for the top coat? I'd imagine it's not as long as the top coat, it would be great to get the primer and top coat on tomorrow if possible.
Thanks
Dave
Dave sorry for the late reply. Just spraying my doors today. 20 degrees and sunshine. Can rub my hand down the door after 5 minutes. Don’t know about flatting off
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I had similar issues so doubled up on the reversing lights - two instead of one. Will check with leds I have. Ended up wiring a work light in as well so I could select it if required
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Thank you for all the replies.
I have nailed the vehicle colour as Epsom Green. Would you believe the local motor factor had two tins of said colour on the shelf, and as the triangular panel behind the door had terminal rot I tried a quick and dirty patch test. The result is well within 20 odd years of sunlight fading the original. I am still in contact with Paintman who has been really helpful. He has sent out another batch of paint with a black undercoat this time, so will try that on the doors when I get home and report back.
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Not exactly what you were after but I found this link to a Durite push button hazard switch with a circuit diagram. Working on my phone so not very clear but I saw references to similar terminal numbers
https://www.arc-components.com/0-484-50-12v-hazard-warning-light-switch-8148.html
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Just something to be aware of, not all alloy wheels have the same load rating which is normally cast on the inside of the wheel. You need to be sure the sum of the two wheel ratings exceed the max axle weight of that axle.
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I used to see one quite regularly in Liverpool about 20 years ago when I lived there. It was a very faded red even then!
Carling switches
in International Forum
Posted · Edited by Roverdrive
Dave
You are correct. I have one for rear wash wipe. I got mine from Mudstuff.