Roverdrive
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Posts posted by Roverdrive
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Martyn
The only thing I would suggest is that if the wheels take a heavy knock it may be more likely to bend more with the centre not being in line with the track rod ends.
My RRC track rod bent despite having a catcher on the nose of the diff, which made for some very interesting handling.
I replaced mine with Sumo bars as well.
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Sounds like the handbrake wants adjusting. Dragging shoes can cause vibration coming to a stop
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Note that tigerseal sticks like sh*t to a blanket, so don’t expect to get it apart without a struggle if at all. We used it on a bow thruster when the sealing surfaces were beyond machining. No leaks!
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Had something similar many years ago with a 200tdi Discovery. It was an air locked pump after a timing belt change, though not sure it is likely if the radiator is getting hot.
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Soren
with regards to removing the octagonal pins, you put a bar through the top and twist it. This enlarges the hole sufficiently to allow you to pull the pin by hand. No hi lift jack required!
have used mine this way several times without problem
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I got the chance to speak to a mate in the trade, who was going up to VOSA for a training course for MOTs. He took it up with a senior instructor, and from an MOT point of view, as long as the beam pattern is correct and it isn't an HID, then it is a pass.
He did say that it was to be reviewed at the next major overhaul of regulations.
HOWEVER
Under the Road Vehicles Lighting Regulations 1989, there is instruction as to the "E" marking on headlamps, and this refers to tungsten filaments, and not LED, so I would think fitting LEDs would then contravene the 1989 act.
http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/1989/1796/contents/made
Just my 2p.
I'll be leaving the halogens in for now.
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I have just had he same problem, and it was the repeater lamps in the wings which had failed. I still need to do the mod indicated above to prevent it from happening again, but might get you going in the meantime.
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We have water mist nozzles over all engines on the ship, as well as over the fuel centrifuges. They are automatically triggered in case of both flame and smoke. He water “fog” helps contain and cool the fire, allowing it to be fought relatively easily.
As always speed is of the essence, and I do believe that a sprinkler system, even if on a dry riser, would have prevented the fire spreading to other levels.
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Red90
I think that will do the trick.
The two wires to the dash light are cut and connected to the diodes the tail then goes to the light and an earth wired to the other side of the light. ( I wouldn’t be using the scotchlocks!)
Why do you say it won’t work?
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Thanks Western. Also found this link
https://matchlessclueless.com/store/led-indicators/led-indicator-diode/
think I’ll pay a visit to Maplins tomorrow. Must be cheaper than RDX
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I was interested in these as well, and was looking at this link
At £70 I was not going to bother especially given the spray and pray effect of the LED in halogen reflectors, though if the attached picture in the article isn’t snake oil, they seem to have solved that issue. If there is no additional glare over Halogen, I would give them a go.
I have spoken to a friend in the trade and hope to be able to beat the £70 price tag. The lamps are Philips units with the z-es chips so you would like to think they are kosher, but this is the internet after all!
If I get the chance to try them I will report back
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Thank you for the link, but at $56 I think I will go down the home made route with a visit to Maplins for some diodes!
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Had a wee problem with my LED indicators yesterday. They have been on the vehicle for about a month with no issues but yesterday when indicating right all four lights flashed, the laeft hand ones being slightly dimmer. Turning left they operated normally. Took me a while to twig that the left hand repeater on the wing had failed, causing enough current to flow through the remaining LED lamps on that side to illuminate them.
An easy enough fix once I actually spotted the failed bulb, but I had the dashboard apart before I noticed it! Oops.
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Glad you found it.
Could have proven expensive if left.
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I just used the cap and relay, no fancy circuit.
just make sure you get a relay with an 87a contact which is normally closed with no power to it such as this one.
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Check the crank pully nut.
Had one come loose on a 200tdi
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As Peaklander said, there is a joint above the headliner above the passenger door. It is normally a non return valve. Mine was thre wrong way round but had been working for years!
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Here you go, this is how mine sits.
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Mine sits with the hinged piece vertically against the seat box when stowed, and when locked on, is in line with the door pillar.
It presses the brake pedal sufficiently to hold the vehicle on a slight incline, I certainly can't push it!
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Don't know if it is relevant but I had something similar when moving from rest, forwards only. It was more of a chirp than a click, but was a failed near side engine mount. Happened again a year or so later when one of the mount bolts worked loose.
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I used some non slip board tape for a skateboard deck. Works great
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Might be as well to check around the exhaust manifold as well.
If it is only audiable on boost, it might only be a small leak at this time.
As said before, look for signs of soot about the back of the head and manifolds. You might be able to use a soapy water solution to find small leaks, but unless the block is cold, it will evaporate very quickly.
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Make sure you measure up the distance from the front bumper to the centre of the engine so you get a hoist with sufficient reach. I was lucky enough to be able to borrow one but the cylinder fouled the bumper. Took some creative rigging to get the engine back in.
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Thanks gents
You hit the nail on the head. The main earth runs from the battery to the gearbox with a clamp half way along to give the chassis earth. Looks like corrosion here. I ran another earth from the body to the engine block, and now back up to 14.2v at tick over no load. Drops to 13.9v at tick over with every conceivable electric load on. Climbs back to 14v at a fast idle, so all looking like back to normal.
in incidentally I picked up on the varying voltage while driving because of the Sparkbright LED voltage monitor I had fitted, so thank you Simon As well!
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12J non-start issue
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted · Edited by Roverdrive
Spelling
If you have a good flow from the injector pipes it should not be the solenoid.
I would suggest checking the two items you have worked on while the body was off, even if only to eliminate them