Roverdrive
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Posts posted by Roverdrive
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Thank you for all your input. Dodgy Epsom appears to be the colour. As soon as I can contact the paint shop I’ll be having a word. At least I have two doors that no longer flap in a breeze!
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Landrover ownership, the gift that keeps on giving! Felt a slight vibration yesterday over 40 mph and had a quick look underneath when I stopped. One of the UJs was cream crackered. The last time I did them I could only get replacements without grease nipples. Which bright spark thought that was a good idea? All done and dusted ready to go back on now, and a lot easier now I have a vice on the bench.
I found it useful to screw a pice of wood to the bench to support the prop when it was in the vice.
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23 hours ago, Eightpot said:
Is there a paint code on the can? Should be LRC961. Even for a can that's not even close to Epsom Green.
Did you have the can mixed by a paint shop? If so take it back and show them the door, they should mix you another can. Also you need to use grey primer, not white or yellow.
Eightpot
it was mixed by a paint shop unfortunately not close to me so even with the current circumstances not practical to visit. I have however cut a panel out of the old door to send to him! I did use a grey primer under the green. The door as supplied came in a black primer. I can confirm the number as being LRC 961
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Gents
Thanks for the suggestions.
in the sunlight it looks a lot worse but given the state of the original door I can’t really complain
I am indeed painting with rattle cans Eightpot and was lying the doors flat. You got me! I found an old tin of Galway Green and did a corner of the door and it is a much better match considering the 23 year old paint. I had a look on the Rimmer Brothers web site and the Galway is listed in the section for older vehicles so looks like I was given duff info in the first place. Western I had not considered Tonga green. Was that a common colour?
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Morning
I am having a right nightmare with painting these doors! After the saga of the clear coat reacting with the colour and having to repaint it seems the colour is wrong!
I was led to believe that the colour was Epsom green but it is a lot lighter.
I had a tin of Galway green which I painted the side frame with a few years ago and it seems a closer match but again I was led to believe that colour was not available on the 1997 model year.
Please see picture.
Does anyone know the correct colour?
I would welcome your thoughts
Mike Derrick
Sent from my iPhone
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I have my work light wired in such a way that it can be selected to come on with the reversing lights via a switch on the dash, or via a switch by the back door, but only when the ignition is off. Stops me leaving it on when driving.
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Yep old style relay fitted and lights worked but as expected too fast, so changed all four lamps back to original until I could source a replacement flasher. Then of course I started tinkering with something else and while digging around on the bench found a spare LED flasher unit, so all change back to LEDS again! Must get a spare flasher and keep it in the cubby box.
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That’s the first port of call this morning. Luckily I kept the old non led relay so at least I can try that. Seems to have coincided with using the battery isolator.
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Should have mentioned it is a 300tdi
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Evening,
The indicators failed this evening. They were fine on the outward journey but once the battery isolator was turned back on and the ignition turned on the trailer light on the dash illuminated and neither the hazards or indicators work. With the ignition off, turning on the hazards just illuminated the trailer light continuously on the dash. The actual lights do not flash. I have LED lights all round except the side repeaters.
any ideas?
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Tdi s rarely need glow plugs to start unless it is extremely cold. Mine is ok down to 2c this winter from personal experience. If there is ice I do allow the glow plug light to extinguish before starting. I would look to checking compression and possibly injectors.
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One of the “new kids on the block” is XD Chassis who are based on the Wirral. I was in their fabrication shop today for unrelated business and was shown the manufacturing process from start to finish ( apart from galvanising) the attention to detail is second to none. All parts are laser cut and have part numbers laser etched for identification. Never having seen a laser cutting operation I was mightily impressed. The width of the cut appears to be in the order of 0.5mm with no heat distortion. The sections are offered together and the fit is perfect, leading to better finished welds. XD chassis have also got the distribution rights or whatever you call it for the GKN chassis rails so can make OEM chassis replacements.
I am hoping they start on bulkheads soon!
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Montyjn
You should be able to replace the belt without removing the fan or shroud.
I only speak of experience with 101FC and RRC though.
Yes once you slacken the pinch bolt , use a bar to lever the adjuster, though I think I may have used a large adjustable spanner on the arm instead. It was a while ago!
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I always enjoyed instructing in the D2, but the D3 was a whole new ball game. Comfortable and capable.
The only downside for me was the increase in weight which caught me out when first becoming aquatinted with it. An off camber turn on wet grass which was possible in the D2 was impossible in the D3. Huge fun off road though, especially as we used standard vehicles on road tyres. Some of the places we could get to would make me think twice about in my RRC on mud terrains.
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Used a RRC for years with an auto box and a BW transfer case for years in ALRC trials with some notable success. Much preferred it to the manual box. You just need to learn how to use it
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A few things come to mind.
They should never have called it a Defender, because it does not have the “Swiss army knife” adaptability. I’d go along with Discovery Extreme as well.
My 300tdi 110 has just gone up by £3k in value at least.
I have looked everywhere in the brochure and can’t find any mention of part number LRS 8888, or Land Rover Spider. How can they expect any credibility without a spider?
I still want one.
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Arjan
In the UK the blue wire is for the rear fog lights
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Could the guide pin be stuck out holding the boost pin down?
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First car at 16 - 1952 series 1 80”
Avenger 1500 GT
Marina coupe 1300
Series 3 88”
Series 3 lightweight- converted to 3.0 Ltd v6
Series 3 lightweight comp safari motor with tuned 2 1/4
Rover SD1 3.5 ltr
Lada Estate with group A engine
Range Rover pick up
Ford Escort Estate
Ford Sierra Estate
Discovery 1
Discovery 2 auto
Discovery 2 manual
88” hybrid coiler
101 forward control
Range Rover classic x 2
Discovery 3
Freelander
Discovery 3
Skoda Fabia
110 Defender - still have
Skoda Octavia vrs
Skoda Octavia vrs 4x4
in addition
Honda CB125
Kawasaki GPX250
Honda Revere 600
Kawasaki ZXR 750 H2
Triumph Street Triple 675
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I would hope your garage would have spotted any oil on the disc from a leaking hub seal?
I would question the statement “all wheels are getting the same amount of braking “ did they mean side to side per axle? Front wheels should see a much greater braking effect- 4 pot callipers versus 2 pot on the back.
If there is no side to side discrepancy then you should look at axle location. Don’t see why they would change the springs.
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1 hour ago, ThreeSheds said:
So these Irwin jobbies, do they cope with any some variation or do they only fit the quoted size?
They are a very coarse conical left hand thread. It is just a case of getting one closest to the size required that has good initial bite. I have used them on broken studs and rounded nuts.
From memory mine require a 22 mm socket to drive them, they do not fit directly on a ratchet.
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Nice one Mav!
Redneck ingenuity alive and well in Aberdeenshire.
Now add a heating coil from the engine and you are good to go.
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I can vouch for the effectiveness of those Irwin type extractors if there is enough meat on he stud to use them. Mine are branded “Craftsman “ from Sears in the USA, and have got me out the poo a few times!
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That’s what I have used and it works fine.
note that not all the Range Rover style floats are the same. Some have a resistance even when “closed” others don’t. Mine is one of the latter.
UJ time
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Too late for the tip about the grease nipples. Doh! I did push fresh grease through the spider by loading the caps, and back pressing it out of the grease nipple hole. I’ll have to remember the tip for when I do the rear prop, cheers for that.