Roverdrive
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Posts posted by Roverdrive
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That was what I was thinking. I don’t know if it is possible but I can’t think of anything else that hasn’t already been suggested
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Is it possible to remove the slave cylinder and inspect the release bearing through the hole?
I am wondering if it is seated correctly on the fork.
With you saying that you can back off the pedal adjustment and still have no free play I am wondering if it is something mechanical rather than hydraulic. If there is no free play, the release bearing won't last very long either.
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One looks like a variable rate spring the other isn’t. They are not a matching pair of springs, or have I misunderstood the question?
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Bryan
this is the kit I bought to sort mine out
https://matchlessclueless.com/product-info/installation-guides/led-indicator-diode-installation/
initially for motorcycles it worked perfectly on my 300tdi. I went down this route to make sure I got the correct diodes . I should add that I did not use the scotch lock connection
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RDX do a fix as per Westerns post in January but a bit spendy At £22
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Check your wing repeaters. If one of these fail, all indicators flash when trying to indicate left or right. For a proper fix, you need diodes in the supplies from each side to the dash light. I’ll see if I can dig out more info when I get home
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The load carrying weight of the wheel should be stamped / cast on the inside face of the rim - i.e. visible if you lie down and crawl under rather than take the tyre off.
I had similar looking rims on my 110 station wagon when I bought it, and they are rated to 650kg each, which was well below the maximum permitted axle weights.
I am not near my 110 just now, but remember the max permitted axle weight being 1850kg.
The wheels I have now ( Boost alloy I believe ) are rated to 950kg per wheel.
The axle weights are stamped on the plate with the VIN number, but that was on a 300tdi. Don't know if yours will be the same.
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Travelling from the Wirral to Ashburton early September if that is of any use?
More likely to be A roads than M5 till past Hereford depending on time of day.
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The fog and reversing lights I believe are NAS spec. The work lamp is a 27w LED unit
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I fitted something like this https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=led+p21w&client=safari&hl=en-gb&prmd=sivn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjDxer02PbcAhXFDMAKHWd1C3oQ_AUIEigC&biw=768&bih=938#imgrc=62BoFBSbcGnmhM: and also doubled up the fog and reversing lights so there is one each side.
I have also got an LED work lamp over the door which can be used to come on with the reversing lights with the ignition on, or manually from the rear door with the ignition off
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When you did the servo test, did you exhaust the vacuum first with the engine off by pumping the pedal until there was no hissing and the pedal went hard?
If you did, and there is no change in the pedal when you start the engine, you need to look at the vacuum pipe in its entirety as a start. Is there anything teed into he pipe from the vacuum pump to the servo?
You say there seems to be more brake effort in reverse, so perhaps verify this by jacking up each wheel in turn and trying to turn the wheel with the wheel-brace while someone stands on the brakes. Were you off reading in France? Could you have damaged a brake pipe at the front?
if you post your general location, you might find there is someone close by who could help.
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I can confirm that an aftermarket one will operate a standard relay. Been in for a couple of years now, and works fine. It gets tested every time I check the oil, just to be on the safe side!
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Not so sure about the Puma set up, but I thought there should be a lock washer under the bolt heads? Is it possible that the bolts are bottomed out in their holes rather than tightening down on the flange?
might be worth measuring the depth of the hole vs the length of the bolt to check.
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Just a thought.
The preload differs depending on whether you have a taper bearing or a Railko bush in the swivel.
Check to make sure you have the right setting.
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Glad you got to the bottom of it.
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Interesting!
I googled this...
http://www.wiringdiagram21.com/2016/12/trailer-light-wiringdiagram-4-7pin.html
From my understanding the vehicle provides the means of operating both indicators together as brake lights, as well as still allowing one to flash if turning and braking! Might be easier to change the lights on your trailer to have separate brake lights?
Note that the second drawing shows the use as an electrically operated brake rather than a brake light.
I also found this
http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/turn-signals.html
Half way down is an adapter for the combined indicator / brake lights.
Hope this might help you in the right direction
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Western
am i right in thinking that you fit the load resistors to the trailer with the led so that you can still tow a “standard “ trailer?
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Just beat me to it Snagger!
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Am I reading this correcly?
When stationary, and turning from full right lock to the straight ahead position rapidly you can feel a judder?
if so I would agree to isolate the steering damper from the equation. Might also be worth a fluid change. It almost sounds as though the box can’t keep up with the demand input. Are the pipes all ok? Nothing pinched?
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I remember someone coming up with a plan to find short circuits. Make up a test lead with a lamp and two male spade connectors. Put the connectors in the terminals where the suspect fuse should be. If the lamp lights brightly there is a short, and you can start wiggling wires to find it. Bulb should go out when you have found the fault.
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Scratch that, I am obviously having a blonde moment. I had he 300tdi wiring diagram not the Td5. Who knew there was another fuse box? Oops. 😬
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Sorry should have added td5 90. 2001 model year I think, but it is ex military
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Morning I am in need of your collective wisdom!
i have no power supply to the hazard light switch on the purple and brown wire. The interior lights don’t work either. The fuses are all good, and I have checked for 12v on the back of the fuse box. According to the diagram I have, this is fed from fuse no1. But this is shown as a purple wire, not purple and brown. Does anyone know where the header is by any chance?
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Don’t know if it affects Defenders as well as Discos, but I had similar symptoms when the radiator fins rotted out on the engine side of the radiator, so not visible from the front of the vehicle.
Leaking diff pan - temporary repair?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Depending on where the hole is, it may be possible to screw a self tapper in and use chemical metal over the top after cleaning well with brake cleaner. Make sure you are nowhere near the crown wheel. I had the same issue on my Salisbury axle just before the MOT! Held fine for a month before replacing the bolt on pan