gary1968

Just make sure the 4wd is present and wroking correctly..... some folks remove the propshaft to the rear to disguise failing IRD's and VCU's, both of qhich are expensive to replace / repair. Other than that, the older 2.0Ld v's the TD4, the older is a bit more agucultural than the td4 but is waaaayyyyyy cheaper to repair if it goes wrong. The td4 is a nice engine but will be costly to fix if it goes worng. I think the Freelander is a great car, only its a little misunderstood, lol. I have had mine for 18months now and apart from the probelms it had when i bought it, it has been a relaible car....... Only this week had to replace a ABS sensor, first repair in more than a year. Would I have another, yes deffo, a diesel, yes deffo, another petrol, yes but the price would have to be right!! HTH, Gaz

Sorry for the late reply been a bit busy dso only just got round to working on the Hippo again, and thanks for the offer FF..... Anyway, it asn't the brake light switch. So, a friend of a friend has a computer to read the ecu. His diagnosis was the front nearside abs sensor 'no reading'. Back onto e-bay and bought said sensor, fitted it tonight and after driving for 50yds or so the lights went out.... abs working, hdc working so am a happy man..... The old one was a complete bar steward to get out, 2 hours later it was out, 15mins later and the new one fitted. Thanks to all who offered advice. Gaz

Well its not the BL switch either, :-(....... Will check the resistance of the ABS sensors when I get a chance. I suppose this will be an MOT failure so I have until November to get it sorted, lol. I can see the car going into Gemm 4x4 to be checked out though. Cheers for the help folks. Gaz

Well, I have a brake light switch waiting at the posty to be collected, will get that tomorow and try it. It is not the HDC swich as I have changed that for a known good one, I assume the HDC wires are OK as I am getting 12V there...... Some good info up there from WDWM, thanks for that mate. If the BL switch doesn't fix it I will try some of you suggestions. I hope its not the ABS pump as thats a pricey little blighter...... to buy and no doubt to fit, I dont have the time to be fitting that and having to bleed all the brakes. Keep you posted guys. Gaz

Well, I have had a little over a years trouble free motoring with my little hippo...... now she has a wee problem. The 3 yellow warning lights have come on, TC, ABS & HDC.... Any good way to be testing parts, without actually replacing.... (dont have a lot of spare cash to be throwing at it replacing parts willy nilly, lol) Any / every suggestion welcome to help fix this problem.... inc. a good LR shop in central Scotland that will be able to read the ECU to help shed some light on it. Cheers, Gaz

I changed the head unit in my td5 disco...... with all the Hardon Karmon goodies. I found that when in use the new unit produced a hiss through the speakers.... I put this down to my not removing the changer from the circuits, which btw is also the amp... It would have been much better if I had wired all the speakers through independant crossovers and did away with the amp. HTH, Gaz

If its of interest I just bought a heated seat cover from Aldi, £15..... It works great too. The heated drivers seat in my ES doesn't work so that was a cheaper / easier option than trying to repair or replace the seat. Gaz

Are you sure the one that is fitted is indeed the correct one?? I think the V6 back box has 2 tail pipes, not heard of any others having that..... Gaz

Hi Rob, Yes, FF is right. There are 2 bleed screws to be removed before you fill it. There is one on the steel pipe that runs along the back of the engine to the original thermostat position, its on the bend at the right hand end of the engine looking from the front. the other is on one of the hoses going through the bulkhead to the heater, remove it as well. Start filling her up slowly with both removed, when you get so far coolant will be coming out the bleed hole in the steel pipe, at this point stop filling and refit the screw. Keep on filling once that is done until coolant comes out the bleed hole in the hose, refit the screw at that point. Continue filling until you get the level correct in the header tank. Please be aware that the heater control in the car should be set to red before starting to fill it up. Take the car for a short drive until the temp comes up to norm, check the level and top up as required when cooled down a bit. Keep an eye on the levels and it will be fine........ (Gaz looks for a fingers crossed emotion, lol) Gaz

You have to empty the system, this will happen anyway when you remove the bottom hose from the radiator. So, you remove the bottom hose and the top hose, leaving 4 connection points for the PRT to connect to, you cant go wrong with this as when you offer the PRT up to the engine it is blaringly obvious what hose goes where. Yes, the standard thermostat has to be removed, and replaced with a blanking ring...... All parts required listed below..... http://www.rimmerbro...em--i-PCH001190 http://www.rimmerbro...tem--i-PEF10010 http://www.rimmerbro...em--i-PEL000040 Its a fairly easy job to do, just take care when refilling to make sure there are no air locks. HTH, Gaz

Not sure about belt size as I have a petrol hippo, but if I were you I would be doing the water pump as well. When you tension the new belt up it will be putting a different force on the pump bearings / seals so might leak...... replace the pump to be sure, it wont be that much more expensive and might save you a lot of work in the future..... HTH, Gaz

My 2000my X reg has it, it is a very early 'late' Mki though, vented discs and coil pack engine. Gaz

Is this a V6?

You shouldn't ave to take anything off around the inlet manifold to remove it. You will need a decent socket set and an extension bar to gain access. I recently did the HG on mine and no bother getting the manifold off. Gaz

It might do, but I doubt it. You need to find out where it is leaking from, run the car upto temp, or until you can hear it hissing, then get some washing up liquid mixed with water and with a skooshie bottle spray around the expansion tank, if it is leaking you will see it blow bubbles, leak found.... :-) HTH, Gaz