Pastycrimper
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Posts posted by Pastycrimper
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On 30/05/2018 at 1:36 PM, FridgeFreezer said:
I bought a "mechless" (no CD/DVD drive) head unit from eBay for about £15 (yes, brand new, from china) which is shorter than most and can be shortened to about 50mm deep if you are willing to void the (non-existent) warranty by opening it. Does AM/FM/USB/SD/Aux and possibly bluetooth. Not going to win any prizes for quality but on the move in a Defender you don't really notice.
DAB ones are more of a challenge as there's no cheap ones and many require external DAB receivers.
Front panel is tacky as hell but it fits behind the dash lip with room to spare:
I like your style! I agree on most points although I wanted DAB
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1 minute ago, pat_pending said:
You can get spacers to move the head unit further out. I think Mud uk used to do them.
Just google "single din spacer".
Thanks - a simple solution!
1 minute ago, Retroanaconda said:It’s tight for sure. I have some of the wiring ‘bulk’ housed in the cover that sits behind the centre panel where you have your switches.
It’s a bloody faff to remove/refit.
I was considering this myself but I have already wired my winch controller and the new heated front and rear screens into the front panel so the little cover behind is already jam loaded
(PS thanks for your great write up on installing a TD5 instrument panel into a 300TDI that Landroversforever and Ralph pointed me too!)-
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27 minutes ago, Peaklander said:
Yes I have one like that but the head unit is very short and there's room for the ISO connector inside that mounting. It is only FM, with AUX in and USB though, no DAB so maybe that's why it is a shorty.
I just assumed any head unit would fit in. Mine looks the same length as old ones I used to have. In retrospect had I known this before I purchased the stereo I'd have deliberately looked for one with a shorter head unit. Ho hum.....I think I'm just gonna have to cram them in there or not use the head unit mounting bracket and just let it sit loose in the gap protruding out an inch or so
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OK so I used to have a Mobile-Storage-Systems centre storage box between driver and passenger seat which housed my stereo. I have now done away with the stereo holding part and got a second hand LR dashboard single DIN mount (AWR2277LOY) which is shown in picture below - I assumed this would be a simple slot in, connect wires and go job!
- The bleddy DIN hole is not cut right - it's too small so I have had to cut it wider with a Stanley so the stereo mounting/locking bracket can fit in
- More annoyingly though, with front and rear speaker cables (Good quality so wider than normal LR wires), a boosted DAB and FM aerial (i.e. two separate antenna cables and an additional +12V supply wire) and the normal power ISO connector, I just don't think there is simply enough room for it all to fit. With serious force I can kind of get it all down and in but the wires are then so squished and crushed I am not very happy with it as a long term solution.
I'm now considering cutting all of the ISO connectors off and shortening all the remaining wires as much as possible and hard soldering them but even then it will be a squeeze I'm sure. Anyone faced this with this mount? And if so, come up with a solution that is tidy and not crushing wires?
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9 minutes ago, western said:
strange as I'm looking on ebay.nl right now
Well this must be a recent thing! I've just done some research. I think the DUtch setup Marktplaats before ebay existed and ebay merged/bought them in 2004 but continued to use the Marktplaatz site. Obviously that has changed.
Additional: There are a lot more LRs on the Maarktplaatz site than ebay.nl! So I'd still use that if you wree looking for a vehicle in Holland
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2 hours ago, western said:
When you do see him please pass on my regards, I'm well pleased with the result of fitting their kit. he only got these back in stock recently, I sent a message via their website to order & by one.
I will do. When I called him in January he didn't have any in stock. But said he could make me one up and would get back to me. He emailed me 1 day later to say he one ready and shipped it straight from Holland which was perfect as the buklhead and engine loom were going in at that time. I then found out that our chief engineer is a good friend of his. There's a lovely tight-knit community of Dutch LR folks!
On this subject I was asking about why I couldn't find any Landys on Ebay in Holland. The answer being ebay is not allowed in Holland and they use MarktPlatz so if anyone is interested in finding LRs for sale in Holland here's the link: https://www.marktplaats.nl/z.html?categoryId=124&attributes=model%2CSeries&priceTo=&attributes=&attributes=&yearFrom=&lastPage=l1Cars&newAttributeFormat=true&nl.marktplaats.xsrf.token=1527543589644.68d6a586534a1ec007b874de223ce773-
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2 hours ago, Red90 said:
Thermostats do not use bi-metallic strips. They use wax. When the wax melts, the thermostat opens. The melting temperature is very specific and it opens quickly at that temperature. The temperature rating is the temperature that the wax melts. With a proper gauge, you can see it open.
Thanks Red90. How wrong I was!
When you say specific temperature, how specific? My knowledge of wax is as it starts to melt there is a range over which is goes from viscous to less viscous - it's this range I am interested in - as in it doesn't go instantly from full solid to liquid at precisely 88 degrees. Me and my Dad years ago gathered a collection of stats from his shed and out of a S2A and S3 and my 300tdi and warmed them slowly in a pan to try and establish which of his spares was which, and yes they did open at different temps, however visually it looked like the opening was over a range of 1 to 3 degrees rather than say a 0.5 degree range.
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On 5/14/2018 at 10:47 AM, western said:
I sent the owners of land reiziger a email with a few points, got a nice reply this morning saying they will revise the fitting instruction & clarify the slider orientation & what to do with the original disconnected wires.
Hi Ralph,
I had this fitted during the rebuild. Dutch Martin is a really nice man - I'm certain he would have welcomed your comments. Ironically I had been looking for this as I had seen it somewhere on a forum a few years back and thought it was Norwegian. Even more ironically his shop is 2 miles from where they moor the ship I work on (Moerdijk). I have literally been so close to him for years and yet never knew he was there! I am visiting him in person in a few weeks when I go back to work in Holland. Clearly from posts above the great members of LR4x4 also have them fitted.
It definitely blows more air on max!
Ziggy
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6 minutes ago, western said:
fitted a new stat when the new temp sender & gauge was fitted, it opens around 88 so could be starting to open around 85 will take a bit more notice on the drive home monday afternoon.
I'm just being unnecessarily nerdy! Given stats are bimetallic mechanically actuated I suspect they have a small range over which they open...as in it is not just fully open/fully closed at half a degree either side off 88.
Either way I may get the PRT sender and guage. As mentioned above we use them on the HPUs of our subsea machinery as we have to really closely monitor subsea hydraulic equipment temps. They're very accurate and relatively cheap.
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14 hours ago, western said:
All Tdi engines standard factory temp sender is 88 degree, mine usually runs around 88 to 95 in normal driving rises a bit if climbing hills but drops back to 90 on level roads, I had100 on it yeasterday when pulling up a long hill but it dropped back,
these are my sender & gauge are VDO units, gauge reads upto 120 degrees. [as an example] theymatch the Td5 gauges quite well as VDO actually made the Td5 gauges for LR [they have VDO labels on the gauge bodies]
https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/vdo-water-temperature-gauge-310010002
https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/vdo-water-temperature-sender-5-8-unf-thread-323801001008
my temp gauge can be seen in a photo on page 5 about halfway down the page of my engine rebuild post -- https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/101989-my-24-year-old-200tdi-rebuild/?page=5
Nice gauges Ralph! I, like you, like to know what is going on. Interesting in your thread above on your journey to Swindon and back you said the temp was sat at 85 degrees. This now intrigues me about the thermostat which I assume only opens at 88 degrees, or does it start partially opening before 88 degrees? I guess you can sense where I am going here.........was your thermostat always closed (not very likely) or is it that 200/300tdi's seem so good at holding running temperature that on a long drive (without heavy loads or silly hills) the thermostat is opening and closing quite frequently? My assumption is that at running temp at idle the thermostat would be open.........time to get a heat proof, water proof mini endoscopic camera with LED drilled onto the the thermostat housing and a small screen on the dash so I can watch live video of my thermostat while driving!
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7 hours ago, landroversforever said:
The info for wiring it all up is on James' website retroanaconda.com That's how ralph ( @western) and I wired mine in and it worked faultlessly.
EDIT:
Here: http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/2009/10/installing-defender-td5-gauges-into-a-200tdi300tdi/
Well I couldn't ask for more than that! And then delving into the thread @dailysleaze linked above satisfied all of my curiosity especially the picture of the circuitry in the speedo which I suspected was more than just a resistor or two. I'll get the green collar in tomorrow as I think the wiring is currently as Retroanaconda's diagram now.
Although I am now distracted by third party senders and gauges namely this sender (https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_15&products_id=134) with this gauge (https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_21&products_id=504).
Side question - what should be the normal running temp of a 300TDI under normal conditions? And what temperature is considered the start of bad things happening for a 300tdi - If the needle is in the red what temp does that indicate? Prior to rebuild (and aside from a rad issue I had once) I think as fro most people my gauge always sat just fractionally below half way. Only once towing a heavy trailer up what us Cornish call Pig Sh*t Hill on the A30 did the gauge run up to about 2/3rds. What temp is that and would a 300tdi keep running happily at this temp?
Anyway I'm pretty skittish about engine temps and I'd prefer to know the numerical value rather than a needle.
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39 minutes ago, western said:
I had my green top sender wired direct to the gauge, missing out the Speedo
the LR one will screw straight in to any 300tdi.
or change the LR parts to VDO gauge & matched sender.
VDO - that was the name I was trying to remember! In the offshore world I use PRT (platinum resistance thermometer) for seawater temperature and these are very accurate (O.1 deg) (PRT) - Not sure what technology VDO use but was wondering if there are PRT sensors and matching guage. It would be nice to know exactly what temp the coolant is
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Alternatively has anyone found a third party more accurate temp sensor that screw into the same thread and sends to an external dial accurate temperatures?
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I'm Looking at the 2002MY diagrams. For a TD5, the sender unit (sensor) has two connectors which go straight to the ECM and then one wire to goes from ECM to speedo and then to the guage. However for TDI variant, in the same diagrams it says connect the sender direct to the gauge. I've attached screenshots of these which I have very terribly tried to annotate in red showing the TDI wiring not the TD5.
4 hours ago, Retroanaconda said:You need the green sender. You also need to modify the wiring in the instrument harness to mimic the rest-of-world spec vehicles. The wire from the sender goes into the speedo head and then out to the gauge.
So I think "rest-of-world wiring" is to bypass the speedo and go straight from sender to guage
4 hours ago, Mo Murphy said:... it goes through a resistor on the speedos circut board which modifies output to the temp gauge.
Mo
Especially if there is a resistor in the speedo and God knows what voltage changes happen in the ECM for TD5.
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Crikey - I spend all day researching this topic, give up, post on here and then 5 minutes later maybe I found the answer.
I can find two separate temp sensors for a 300TDI:
- AMR1425 - Which has a green collar
- AMR3321 - Which has a black collar
They both look identical apart from the collar colour - I am assuming I have the wrong one! Does anyone know the difference between these two senders? Think I'll just buy the other one and try and see
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OK Good Folks,
The rebuild is finished - And yes I will post an essay of the whole massive story (personal and mechanical) into rebuild/owners vehicles section. I'm back to work at sea on Monday so not sure quite when I'll have it done but it's coming I promise!.
BUT in the meantime. It was a 1997 300TDI. It still is really but many of the new parts came from later vehicles including a a good condition instrument panel from a 2006 TD5. I have the 1997MY elec diagrams and also the 2002MY elec diagrams. They clearly used an engine control module (ECM/ECU) on TD5s which I don't have. The diagram in MY2002 clearly shows alternatives for TD5 and 300TDI (I assume this is because 300TDIs were still shipped to the international market even after 1997).
Anyway as far as I can see, for a 300TDI you just wire it as per the normal 300TDI diagram - i.e. temp sensor direct to coolant temp instrument gauge however I have tried this and the gauge only raises to middle of blue section when at full running temp. So either they made different temp sensors (which I guess had different resistances and hence voltage ranges and thus effect how much the needle moves on the gauge) or I have made a mistake elsewhere.
Anyone else basically got a 300TDI MY but installed a later TD5 instrument panel? Any ideas?
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Interesting times. My rebuild is just finished! Jut sorting the receipts of this saga and I just filed the Marsland Receipt - 110 Galvanised chassis (TDI but with TD5 rear x-member) in Jan 2016 was 1525 ex VAT. I am very glad I got mine then! And Yes I will get something up on the rebuild pages - only just got her on the road 3 days ago!
Interestingly the chap who did the main rebuild has another customer and he's struggling to get a Marsland - I suspect the reason for this is that Marsland bought direct from GKN the OEM chassis. However I suspect most of you know that GKN are in trouble (big trouble I fear) so I suspect we are witnessing the last of the line of GKN making LR chassis. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-43584083
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7 hours ago, nidge said:
I'm near naas in Kildare , so be on your way to Clare if you come Thru Dublin.
Nidge.
Thanks. I'll message you after I've looked at the more local one this weekend
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3 hours ago, nidge said:
Its off a 1996 x utility 110. Its not mint but better than most you see, has a couple of aerial holes in the roof but should paint up Ok.
I'm open to any reasonable offer for it, as I'd be keen to get it out of the way and happy thats its getting used rather than scrapped !
Where are you in Ireland? I've very slightly planned on visiting friends in between Lahinch and Doolin. If so I could potentially bring a trailor with me. I'm viewing a hard top this Saturday not so far from me but suspect it may be as ropey as mine
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21 hours ago, nidge said:
I have one here but in Ireland, I could take apart if maybe you had a way of shipping it ??
Nidge
Nidge. ...what year is that from? Aside from the hassle of shipping how much would you be looking for?
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I found one from a breakers near Manchester off a 2016 puma but 1800 quid is a wee bit bank breaking.
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On 03/02/2018 at 9:47 AM, Yostumpy said:
no, but what I have often thought about, is making a steel frame, to replace the sides, then have the choice of removeable side panels(zues clips?), and / or remiveable/ roll up canvas sides, whilst still retaining the hard roof and rack. Cross between a hard top and a perentie.
Novel idea. I'll be rebuilding by secret camper inside so roll up sides not what I need
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THanks Neil. ....I trawled fleabay but never considering looking for breaking defenders.
Ralph.....I'll give them a call now. Cheers
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OK OK OK I know for 2 years I keep saying its nearly done but working abroad and coming home to rebuild is very tricky. I also feel guilty for being regular on here and in last two years I just picth in like a meercat when I need help.
Anyway.....the rebuild is nearly nearly done. I WILL write a full story board and post it on here when complete. It is bleddy epic!
I've gone so so far into this that there's very little more I can do. BUT I'm looking at my old hard top and sides and beginning to think shall I try and source a newer one. She's refurbishable and re-sealable but aluminium bubbling in places especially at the bottom where the steel capping was.
I'm now of the conclusion that 110 hard tops are very hard to come by!!??. I'm off away for another week but I am wondering of anyone on here knows of a 2nd hand hard top in good nick (Sides and roof). Seemingly nothing on ebay
How long to fit galv chassis
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
What a great thread.
Mine took 3 years (albeit over two of them rotting in a field while more stuff got shot blasted and sent for galving, or bought new and sent for galving). What I will say......if you love the vehicle for yourself and have no intention of ever selling it, then take as long as you want. As is seen above, the time taken to do something on a landy is pretty versatile.
My opinion (and my experience) is that if you intend on keeping this vehicle for ever, then just re-chassis-ing on a galved chassis is great but somewhat pointless for the very very long term. If you are going in for the long term, then you should:
Sadly the above costs s**t loads and "the plan" cost me 2 years more than I planned and 4 x my original budget and I didn't even do it! However it in theory should now out live me (structurally speaking)
Or less than a week, if you know what you are doing (unlike me) and have useful extremely useful helpers. OR even quicker as per the above videos and comments. Sorry for teaching grandma to suck eggs and Sorry for the unhelpful useless answer. My favourite Cornish slang is the word "Drekly" - meaning anytime between 1 second and a thousand years. Good luck