dailysleaze

This link might help. Essentially the seal and mud shield have to be matched. FRC8220 will match your mud shield FRC8154. https://www.landroverworkshop.com/axles-differentials/pinion-flange-pinion-oil-seals You could change to the later style which is a round flange but you'd have to replace all three items.

The metal fuel tank does have baffles, but they're in the lower half so you could turn it upside down then drain from the fill pipe.

Lots of good stuff to think about 👍. Painting is definitely an option. I originally thought LEDs as they my be more low profile and I won't bash them off by accident like I could with tubes. I don't want them to hang into the space too much. I did have three 12v led tapes running the length of the rafters hooked to an old car battery, but once that died it wasn't very convenient. Wondering now whether to align the lights longitudinally or up on the cross rafters out of harm's way.

I'm going to be bringing electricity to my detached garage, which is very exciting 😎 Has anyone got recommendations for lighting? Not just the light products but positioning and any other tips. I'd at least like LED and for it to be BRIGHT in all nooks and crannies. It's a 5m x 2.5m x 2.5m volume with five 2-inch wide rafters.

Was great weather today. Getting bigger every time I go. There were at least two Dutch businesses there selling stuff which I'd not see before. Just as I arrived the marshalls confused the traffic and a BMW t-boned a Freelander at the entrance. They were not happy.... The website has a prepay and print your own ticket option now, but only saw it too late to use it. Would save 10 mins queuing to get in. Hardly any new take off stuff these days (for obvious reasons) so you really have to hunt for the good stuff. There was a new stand I'd never seen selling recon diffs and t-boxes. Very shiny and newly painted, yet I looked at one of the diffs and it had very obvious damage where a crownwheel bolt had come loose and jammed in the diff carrier. You need your wits about you to avoid the tat.

You could try taking off the plastic spade attachment to put on the new alternator. What part number did you buy? The one on the right is AMR4249

99% sure your exhaust manifold gasket has cracked Definitely check the leak off pipes. Remove them and fold 180 degrees to see any cracking

I would always start with genuine LR MTF94 and see how the gearbox reacts to it, then go hunting down more specialist oils if there are problems (a sticky second gear is normal) For axles I use EP80W90 and the T-box I use EP75W90, but EP90 is what's specified so it'll do.

No, but if we're talking about money then economy is a consideration.

300Tdis also have better economy. I would run a Td5 but only a 15p and as late a model as I could get.

Actually, the new mudshield may be an improved part and may fit older boxes. It needs to be pressed onto the flange. In your photo it's just resting - did you try and press it on? This is how it should look when fitted:

1. Reuse the metal washer and use the fibre seal as this is the later design. The mudshield you took off is FRC6121. I would buy a new one of these and add it to the new flange. 2. Et voila:

So to wrap up my monologue, the nut is equivalent to 17H8769 from a Mini and other British classics. They're not identical as they come in chrome, but meh 🤷‍♂️. They're eight sided which makes them quite unique and I hadn't noticed before. Genuine on the left, Mini on the right

After 3.5 years i'm bringing this back up as i've got a separate genuine wheelbox that I measured and it was too hard whilst still on the car... OD of the thread is 15.4mm. 0.9mm on the thread gauge is too small but 1mm is too large. I don't have an imperial thread gauge. Any clues anyone can suggest about what the thread might be?

Ah ok. Maybe they're planning something big...