Jon White
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Posts posted by Jon White
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John,
If you're using a series chassis and the PAS box in such a positon that the drag link ball joint is in the same place as on a series to maintain the geometry, then you need the defender one.
I've gone this route on my series, and its necessary as you have to raise the PAS box up to clear the axle on full bump, otherwise it'll clout the bottom of the output shaft. You therefore need the defender style "swoop down" drop arm as the disco one would foul the chassis.
This isnt a problem on a coiler as the PAS box sits futher in front of the axle so it all clears. However I didnt want to get into messing about with steering geometry so I did things that way.
Make any sense?
Cheers
Jon
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Bowy has also done a set and I've done 8 spokes. There are a few posts about to that effect.
Worst bit is getting them true again afterwards, and make sure your welding is top notch!
For the valve, just drill a new hole, but do it on the stepped in bit, not the flat else the tyre takes the bottom of the valve out!
Jon
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Hmmmmmm if you've used RR rear calipers on the front, then you'll need to be careful with brake bias when you do the rears or else you'll lock the rear end up first!
I'm running wilwood 4 pots up front, which has avoided this problem and I've had no problems with brake bias, as you can select what piston sizes you want when you order them.
You can use the adjustable brake bias valves I suppose, but they're alot of money for what they are, and in my opinion are a bit of a bodge.
The dual circuit masters are available in a range of biases. Standard series is 50/50, but some of the defender ones are different. There's a plastic ring clipped around them which will tell you what they're biased to. I suspect you'll need to change the master.
Cheers
jon
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and take Mr Barker with u cos he needs some lessons too
ROTFLMAO!!!!!!!!!
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The bigger servo makes no difference to the braking abilities - it simply reduces the pedal pressure required.
I found mine stopped fine, but for heavy (ie emergency stop) type braking you really needed both feet on the pedal!
110 servo sorted that - just make sure you get an early (small diameter) one. The later ones wont fit.
Cheers
Jon
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Time is sparse, work is long
think I'm aiming at a 65hr week this weekStop moaning and learn to delegate!
Oh........and learn to drive too! B)
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P.s. not going to MWWCE so you wont see me there. I'm in scotland!
Jon
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I found exactly this.
I was previously running the late series 3 duel circuit master and servo.
Both Tonk and I have since changed over to early 110 type servos. You need to change the complete pedal assembly and servo unit, but the series master will bolt up to it so no need to re-bleed etc. The 110 servo is bigger and makes the world of difference.
However its a bit longer on I needed to trim the inner wing back to suit. Never looked under the bonnet of a LWT so dont know if it'd need trimming.
Rears is easy peasy and virtually bolt on. See this thread for details.
Cheers
Jon
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Sigh...........do you want me to wet nurse you aswell????
Didnt take me long to find......
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Er.......dunno - it was a reply to someones question about disk brakes!
Its one there somewhere but I dont requent there anymore so...........
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Oh - you cant use the defender half shafts - they're much too long!
Jon
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Rob,
Yes - it'll fit (or can be made to fit).
I have exactly this set up on the back of my series (although my rear axle isnt a salisbury). If you do a search on the old LRE forum you'll find a post I did telling you exactly what needs to be done.
Cheers
Jon
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Got any internet links to the Ozzy ones to have a look at for information???
Cheers
Jon
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No - diff lock will always give drive to front cause of the way it works. Effectively it locks the front output to the body of the diff.
Only thing it may not give you is an output to the rear I suppose if there's no internals left.
Cant see as why it cant be fixed in situ. But I've only ever had a series transfer box apart so what do I know?
Jon
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Blown centre diff in the LT230?
Possibly the pins that hold the sun gears having failed.
Its not unknown - nige blew the centre diff on his hybrid pulling out of the petrol station!
Jon
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More to the point - how much is Trev getting paid to write the articles for the magazine?
Jon
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Ah.........is that the one that we saw at Slab once..........Matey had just about managed to get up one fo the steep climbs there, so my mate decides to have a go in his bowler. Needless to say said bowler mad eit up there with consideraly less effort than he'd had to put in.......
OK let see you do it now without the lockers in then says matey.........he went quiet when my mate pointed out to him that his bowler doesnt have any lockers fitted!!!
Jon
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Take it off and throw it away. T piece the front and plumb the rears straight to the back axle.
End of problem.
Jon
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Any automotive paint suppliers will do it. You buy the crystals and mix with water.
Cheers
Jon
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Yeah BUT.....
The 3.9 system has a "get you home mode" built in so you can even take the airflow meter off, chuck it in the boot, and the engine will still run (admittedly badly) enough to get you home.
You still end up having to chop about a wiring loom to add in the extra sensors, remove the ones you dont etc. Joints in wiring looms are asking for trouble.
Megadribble may be easy to fix if you've access to all the bits from RS, circuit diagrams, soldering irons etc etc, but who carries them round as spares? If you break down at the side of the road what chance do you have of fixing it to get you home? Ask Ash about getting home from Wales for example.
At least with standard parts its easy to carry a spare ECU and AFM if you so desire. They're cheap and easy to get hold of.
I dont deny all the benfits of injection (for my daily driver I'd chose nothing else). However for something I dunk in the mud I want something I can fix in the mud. I couldnt care less about fuel economy as my truck does less than 500 miles a year.
I still dont see the point in replacing a perfectly good injection system when theres a perfectly good off the shelf system thats matched to the engine. If the AFM's pack up, then replace them with new not 2nd hand! Lets face it you wouldnt expect a set of carbs to still be in perfect order after 150000 miles, so why expect an AFM will be?
In my opinion the only sensable applications for Megasquirt are for fitting to engines that were never equipped with EFi from the factory, or for substantially modified engines where the custom mapping is required. Otherwise unless there is an inherant problem with the EFi system I do not see the point in changing it.
Jon
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Jeez! You'll be having the wheels balanced next!!!!
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Hammers work surprisingly well for freeing off sticky needle valves on SU's.
I just didnt mention it cause I thought someone would take the tiddle!!!
I even used a big hammer when I built up my rear ARB - Nige nearly had a fit!!!
Jon
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My mate for ally landrover panels does the following:-
Sand with DA sander with fairly rough paper.
Tack rag off to remove dust wipe down with panel wipe.
Spray with phosphoric acid and allow to dry. (this will give the ally a yellow tinge)
Etch prime in the usual way, and then spray as normal.
If you just etch prime it the paint just falls off the first time you pressure wash it! Paint sprayed in this way even stayed stuck to Nigel Hybrid!
Jon
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My point exactly. I run carbs and points for that very reason. I know I can fix them in the middle of a muddy field with a screwdriver and an adjustable spanner.
Stick with the standard stuff and use the standard rangie engine loom. You then simply need to make connections to one multiplug.
Jon
think I'm aiming at a 65hr week this week
Reversed center disco rims?
in International Forum
Posted
I used a dial gauge with a magnetic base ontop of an axle stand.
Jon