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Jon White

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Posts posted by Jon White

  1. Andy,

    Why bother???

    I think I'm correct in saying that your 3.9 is otherwise unmodified therefore the EFI system will be suited to the engine. The spares are therefore universal and easily come by. If it wont start, borrow and ecu off of a mate etc etc.

    Megasquirt wont start........

    Whats easier to carry? A spare ecu or a laptop, soldering iron etc etc.

    Sorry but I'm just not convinced about using an ecu made by a spotty geek in his bedroom when there is an off the shelf system available. Plus with the sorts of environment we play in the wiring ends up all hacked with all sorts of joints in it etc.

    As to whats it worth - simply depends where you're selling it. Ebay - probably more than you can buy on new for. If we're talking sodbury type prices not a huge amount. Bearing in mind you can buy a complete, running 3.9 rangie now for less than £500.

    Jon

  2. Has the quality of the pre bent tubes improved?

    Nige and I ordered their front hoops, but the quality was so appauling we sent them back. Not only were they not symmetrical the tube was distorted on the bends with visible rippling on the insides of the bends.

    Thats why we made our own.

    Have to say I'm also concerned about the strength of the mounts at the corners of the rear crossmember. Have you beefed up the crossmember at all??? The ends of these bend very easily and will simply twist if put under any load.

    Cheers

    Jon

  3. Sounds good Tony! Its got to be a 6 bolt as nothing else is small enough to fit in!

    Quite happy with a sodbury type price - can you find out what sort of money he's after please?

    Unfortunately I'm not going to be at Slindon, as I'm in Scotland that weekend, but i'm sure Nigel or Tonk would be able to act as courior on my behalf (please chaps!)

    Cheers

    Jon

  4. The 6 bolt box on my series is leaking fluid like a sieve.

    As the casing has to be modified to make it fit the series chopping it in for an exchange re-con isnt an option so I'm considering trying a seal kit on it before I scrap it. Anyone ever done one on a 6 botl box? Do I need any special tools?

    I've got the 90/110 manual which tells you how to rebuild it, but I was just wondering if any of its do-able without needing the special tools.

    Also any tips for persuading the drop arm to come off???

    Thanks

    Jon

  5. I rebuilt the LT77 in my series onto a sherpa mainshaft when I did the 5 speed conversion to series transfer box.

    The LT77 requires a special tool to get the sleeve the oil seal runs on off the rear of the mainshaft. Having tried (and broken) all kinds of pullers and other tools trying to get it off I'm of the opinion that the ONLY way to get this off is to the use the correct special tool! I struggled for days, and in the end rang a mate who works at an independant specialist and he borrowed the tool from his work - took 30 seconds to remove it!!!

    Once this is off you need:- a set of spanners, a pin punch, a decent set of large circlip pliers, a large gear puller (with long arms), a mallet, a set of feeler gauges, a vernier (or micrometer), and a dial gauge.

    Its fairly straightforward to strip and re-build. However the puller is required since some of the bearings are tight on the shafts and difficult to remove.

    The tricky bit however is shimming it all correctly. It takes ages and you keep having to strip and re-build the box checking the clearances and changing shims till its all right. The shims are also sodding expensive and never in stock so it takes bloomin ages!!! I stripped 3 boxes in the end, and even then didnt have all the correct shims I needed so ended up buying more!

    I know thats LT77, never works on an R380 but I'm told they're very similar so i'd imagine its pretty similar.

    Take care with gearbox numbers aswell. ON the LT77 there are different parts used dependant on the serial number and some of the early parts are hard to obtain. May well be the case with R380 also.

    All in all - pretty easy, need one special tool, but the shimming it a pain and is critical you get it right!!

    HTH

    Jon

  6. I just pick em up at sodbury and the like - they're only standard LWD front shafts - cheap as cheaps. Just make sure you check the splines on em when you pick em up casue I've seen a few with very badly worn splines.

    No idea where to buy em from new casue i've never bought a new one!

    Jon

  7. Historically spares availability with the KAM stuff has been a problem. A mate has the older style KAM lockers in his trialler and spares are completely unavailable for them. He's had to have parts made in order to repair them.

    This may be less of a problem with the newer units however. Equally though I've had it with regards to the KAM shafts where you want a spare, they're out of stock, and will remain out of stock until he gets enough advance orders to commision another batch. Not much help when you've got a truck with a busted shaft!

    I'm also not keen on the KAM kit due to the huge amount of hacking that has to be done to the axle casing - you would have to take the axle tube right off the vehicle in order to fit it in IMHO. I'm also not keen on the plastic diff pans supplied with the kit.

    The advantage with the ARB unit is that its all contained within the diff itself, making it much easier to simply swap the diffs out if you want to swap the lockers to a different vehicle in the future. With the KAM kit you have to swap the entire axle.

    I'm running ARB's front and rear with KAM shafts in the rear.

    Jon

  8. Just to clarify the problems Tonk was having we eventually traced to the fact that casue he'd removed the steering lock stops completely the u/j's on full lock were actually binding up hence why they sheared.

    He's since put the lock stops back on and has had no futher trouble.

    If you use the 24 spline outers on a series front, then the weakest part is at the diff end, and I've seen a few shafts that are twisted at this end. Tonk's done one, but only with a twist in it. A mate has done a few on his muddler, but thats running V8, lockers and dumper tyres! Generally they twist rather than actually snapping.

    We both looked into uprated ones, but as neither of us has had a major problem with fornt shafts, and standard inners are cheap and easy to come by we've not bothered. Rears are another story however.

    We're both running the same shafts and ARB's front and rear, only difference is I'm on 33" grizzlys where he's on 34" jungles..........and he's the ruffarse!

    Jon

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