Team Idris
-
Posts
1,606 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
5
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Team Idris
-
-
Noooo two rivets have pulled through
okay, not huge really, but now I have to drill them and put longer ones in and hope... Good job I had to take it back off and could see the issue.
Three splash guards are in and sealed. Front pair need access holes, which is a small price to pay for giving the tub back its rigidity.
-
Pop rivets
I will use dome head on the rest where applicable.
I just cut the 2” by 1/4 strips for the roll bar (seat belt frame) They will stick through the floor where the recovery crane mount went (some sort of frame that clamped the chassis) -
“Change places” as the mad hatter says
I know what to expect now.
dome or pop on the corners? They were dome, but they aren’t easy to get at. No room to swing a hammer . . .
-
4 hours ago, DaveSIIA said:
I also suspect that body filler may crack if sandwiched between the two skins. Could you drill out the spot welds to remove the original panel and plug weld the new to reattach? Alternatively, a good quality panel adhesive would do the job, and not leave a row of weld marks or a double skin to trap moisture.
An insurance body shop had to replace an accident damaged rear wing panel on my four year old Defender 110 CSW. They drilled out the spot welds and just used pop rivets to nail it back together (the heads of which didn't fall anywhere near a straight line). I queried this with my insurers and their body shop as being unsightly on a relatively new vehicle, even putting up calculations and manufacturers data to show that correctly applied Sikaflex panel adhesive is stronger in both peel and shear than the pop rivets - fell on deaf ears as it wasn't a Thatcham approved repair method!
Wow
that is just nasty!
Plug welding ally is a good way to get your butt kicked
Or, if you have to, plug weld on a foundation strip and glue to that. *Maybe ally-mig would do it? But, if you put steel either side of the spot welder joint it does join the ally. It appears that ally has too low of a resistance to melt without big power, the steel brings that.
-
Glad you all like it
Would the body filler crack if between two panels of the same thickness and size? Honest answer, RTV silicon sealer. It really grabs metals and it is flexible long term.
The other thing I have been using is plumbers-gold, which appears to be car seam sealer? (Got half a tube off a mate) works great on the splash panels. -
The rear floor is awful and was made usable by a sheet of 3/4 plywood. Good stuff as well ! Here it gets chopped up to make a wood sandwich with a 1.5mm ally filling. You can’t touch this grade without annealing, so it gets some heat and a bashing. I use every clamp I have. This is an overpanel because the wing maybe wrecked, but it is spot welded on securely. I am thinking of dabs of body filler to stop the outer panel drumming?
-
Yes, I had used the strip of ally for concrete shuttering last year
chop, chisel, drill, cut heat, beat, go have a brew, do more...Four new ‘spats’ are going in. I had them before, but in 2020 they really are rotted out. Two on each side are also structural because the wing panel is more like a wok than a tea tray
-
Some ‘doublers’ for the front and a day on the rear W with 16 tig rods
Worth it though, the holes line up. By heck the ickle screws took some getting out from the loading strip on the tail!
Using a big strip of 5083 3mm stopped it warping again once I had it straightened.
-
Yay, someone sells rear panels for £104 on eBay so I don’t have make any.
Also, tub supports from the S1 club shop. Yes, you can buy them now so I buy two. I already turned two S3 ones into an S1 years ago, but it never happened?
-
Then the security cage was a nightmare to take off , but it looks cute
-
Rear RH wing and whatever else is messed up in its vicinity
First bit; how bad was the bad I had hidden under a thin sheet?
-
On 3/15/2020 at 7:53 AM, Bigj66 said:
Why the rear diff? Appreciate it’s taking all the load when in 2WD but is there something in particular about it that causes failures?
Could HD bearings be fitted to a S3 box to strengthen it?
It is where diff pegging comes in. The torque makes the pinion ride the crown wheel due the carrier design. Salisbury takes it better than swb because it is bigger.
the best fix was that shock absorber they fitted in the early rangy transfer box. It took the torque spikes out and that saved everything behind the flywheel. Don’t do burnouts
-
S3 is weaker than S2a. The last crash-box has the biggest bearings. Normally they eat the rear diff.
-
There was a home made one on YouTube that rotated a tube. The tube had the coolant going down the middle. Normally home made one vibrate up and down, so it was interesting to see a rotary using larger hypodermic needles.
-
Lathe Vlog 3 & 4 . it is getting there slowly. So much to clean and paint and so many mods in the cross slide upper.
And I thought it only needed an inverter and it was ready to go
-
1
-
-
On 1/28/2020 at 2:58 PM, FridgeFreezer said:
What's the light dangling over the lathe?
Some LED low-bay battery back up thing my bro dragged in with six others. It was the one that worked
It I s now as high as I can get it because it is so bright
-
Yay the crane is in
Terry Winchman brought his big drill over.
-
* Lathe Vlog2* It runs
-
It’s looking better with every gun-wash clean
-
Getting my TOS lathe going that I used when I was very much younger
-
1
-
-
All pulled apart
I need to sort all the bits now. End of an era :D
-
1
-
-
Wow, I need to wake up
pump was half a grand, 200 just on the heads! £2500 total in parts, so yeh, try getting one built for free Then ask for a free sump and tank.
Also, cobra Monaco seat was £200 and so were the rear old man emu shocks
-
I am on target
Plus, I grabbed back my frame-on-wheels from father in law, so I can pull the engine and wheel it back into the garage. (I’ll use ratquadcrane to winch it out)
My engine might be a very good deal? I’ve seen one for sale for £2800
I only want £1500 and that is with the dry sump pump? I may need to go do some research . . .
-
A bit less
you can see the rear rad and winch stack. Rad is 0.9 meter off the floor.
I know what to expect now.
that is just nasty! 
S1 rear tub work
in Series Forum
Posted · Edited by Team Idris
Is the back square now? Yes
Does the tailgate fit anymore? No
Will it adjust on the four remaining bolts of the six? Nope
Can you file the slots longer? In the words of Churchill “Oh Yes”
Also, two views of the roll-bar mounts passing through the original crane mount holes. And the access hatch in the LH splash guard.