Team Idris
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Posts posted by Team Idris
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Stripping it down for the last time. Making a pile outside of metalwork going for scrap.
At the end of the month we cut the cage off. Still a lot more bolts to remove before I am ready for that though!
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Excellent thread
How about the exact opposite? Here is the best thing I ever invented, it was absolutely brilliant for placing the rope on a low point to get more line pull. We sold 14 and it took David Boyer 2 years. (I felt bad). So yeh, anti snake oil.
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Yep, 3/8 puddle holes and I advise pushing the lower sheet up, so the weld pool is easy for the arc to reach.
I caused too much heat distortion by fighting it
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Top gun metal bashing
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Here we go again
This time the same blank seems to fit okay? I could measure the seat box to find out why, but I think I will pass 😛
Welding tip; bigger puddle holes let the tig tip arc reach down to the lower sheet.
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I looked at the yellow bit of steel and decided I couldn’t live with it?
I’m in this deep, so I guess I am rebuilding this side of the seat box as well Quicker anyway, because no locker panels to tie in.
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I think we all know where this is going
but not until next year when the race truck is sold/parted-put so I have some room to work.
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The heater vent and pto lever came out really well
I glued 3mm rubber to the underside of the floor plate and bolted through it.
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“Keeping it flat” jig over a bit of stainless. (Less heat transfer)
I ought to try an ickle disk of ally for support next. Rather than rod build up.
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Thanks Steve
The comments on social media are keeping me going on it.
It is at least small enough to fight on the bench now. And today’s argument is: replace LH floor sheet, build up the corroded holes or slip in a ‘d’ shaped repair piece.
new panel; drilling and cutting is okay, but the old one is spot welded in
building the holes back up; is hard in corroded ally, you need it clamped down hard and it takes a lot of gas and rod.
Cut out a D shape; and weld fresh back in is the only option if the corroded hole is really really bad. Weld it in short half inch runs, move around and clamp as you go. Flip it and weld the other side, then grind off half the weld. Give it a good hard annealing with the flame torch. Clamp it flat and grind the remaining weld away.
After doing all three I would say it comes down to what is left of the old panel? You would need to look hard to see I had been blasting away at it with the tig. I need the practice for the back body anyway, so I am glad to try all methods
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Poke prod cut weld fight drill poke hammer file paint wax oil
outrigger has a new back in it, an exhaust tab and the bulkhead has a 3mm mount plate. The cab heater is in and runs. The gearbox works as well !(all this started with a noisy gearbox)
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The photo I forgot to take
I added a screw clip to the tunnel cover so that the RH floor is removable. (The floor is also a new part) I think I indented it very well. You would have to know series ones very well to know it wasn’t factory.
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I’m deleting the master cylinder holes. The cross-shaft holes aren’t there so thees are extra pointless
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Thanks.
Good question, mostly time. It Rotted through when the galvanising wore out on the sill. The seat box was all such a mess from age and being cut through. Fixing it while I was in there sorting the gearbox seemed the right thing to do. The seat box bottom edge has looked really bad for 25 years.I’ve had TIG for 3 years and I didn’t dare tackle the aluminium without being able to stick it back together
I see the outrigger and bulkhead pillar are rusted out. (Was on it this evening) All this from a noisy gearbox
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Note: Front corner of the seat box where it meets the sill . Series one 88”
For many a year I designed sheet metalwork for heat exchangers and I’m sure the side is off (or the front panel) The sill has a relief pressed into it to take the bottom edge of the front panel. Looking at the complete seat box assembly the front edge that screws to the floor needs to be lower than the side edge that bolts to the galvanised sill.
I don’t see as I am as far off as I have seen today? I used the old part as a template? Conclusion is that a new side needs to be a few mm shorter than the original.
I fixed it the same they would have in the factory, I hit it with a hammer and a block
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The original doubler was sawn through and flattened, so that they could bolt the two halves back together. I considered replacing the whole doubler, but that’s a lot of distortion, so I made an over-plate part. I can’t escape the fact that their butchery for easy gearbox access was very nearly a good idea? Removing the drivers side gets you no where because of the fuel tank. It can stay separate.
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Time for bed
puddle holes needed to be bigger, that was a fight.
I welded some stuff that wasn’t welded and popped a brace in the bottom. Not trying to ‘make better than new’, it’s just a bit fallen apart and floppy without a bit of upgrade here and there.* it came cut into three bits *
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Looks the part
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I drilled the old panels spot welds out with a step drill and used a 3mm drill in the nape of the bends as a marker. Then beat it flat, as a genuine template. This let me cut out a spare panel ready for the other side, which is also split at the bottom edge. The bend holes are circled by tipex.
The holes aren’t noticeable on the new part
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Assuming I can puddle weld the spot welds back in with TiG this is looking like it will work
5251 analysis; feels like the right landrover stuff. Hard enough to stay flat, but ductile enough to fold and hammer.
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As a plant and agri fitter I can say that the planet and sun gears have a clearance and it is usually way bigger than in a gearbox or on the crown wheel and pinion. I’ve seen a ZF duetze tractor diff where the sun and planet bevel gear teeth were a fine cast finish with no machining. So these aren’t as critical a part as many other gears in a truck/car/tractor. I would reassemble one of the better housings.
What kills them is spinning the front wheels. They don’t turn much against themselves on the road. To blow the thrust washers a driver must have doing tight turns by applying the handbrake? They hate that.
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I use strait tube and silicon bends. However, there are bends available in aluminium that are a reasonable price.
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Aha, yes, that makes sense. It can get through the peg hole.
Oh Look, no yellow knob hole (4x2)
After 30 years I’ve had enough of fighting the one-piece floor panel. I need to weld up the right hand side anyway, so a few extra spot-weld-holes should be a quick fix.
*damaging a matching numbers truck? It’s a bit rough generally and the floor is no exception. I can make the joint look stock. I don’t want to be Jerry off Salvage Squad, but this is the last year they had a one piece floor, so even Rover thought it was a bad idea*
RRC Based 88" Buggy
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted · Edited by Team Idris
Nope
I’m cutting it up and selling the parts.
At the end of this month we cut the cage off and when the axels go I’ll gut the frame. I need to sell the engine, but it is a nice one, so I might have to part that out to get the £1500 I need ?