[V8 Water Ingress]

Don't panick

You know when you've hydraulic'd, it's a hell of a bang.

But even if you have, If it's not banging as it turns over it should start. After all, you'ld be going well to bend all 8 con rods! And even if you bent one he'd still start.

Could easily have water in the fuel? Try him with a snort of etha.

Apart from the known and common faults it's a robust engine badly made. A bit of oily water won't kill it.

Fixes;

I run a cheap £5 compressor on the dash that pushes fresh air into the distributer to keep the steam out. I carefully drilled the body for a pipe. If you want to go further, there are two drain holes in the bottom of the body. You can run a hose to one of them and block the other (really, really carefull job due to bob weight frame inside)

Also check the dipstick seal, valey gasket, carb breathers, rear block breather intake, auto box dipstick seal and rad cap as points of water ingress, as applicable to your truck

Anything that isn't sealed really

I hope he fixes easy and you can back out there

[Oversize helicoils?]

^^^

It's a classic, and I've never known it fail

Closest I can find is http://www.gasgoo.com/auto-products/fastener-452/1357995.html but I have used ones with hammer in stakes built into the nut?

[deep sump for GKN overdrive unit - is it a J or P type?]

Might be a job for Alisport? You could have a normal-ish flat plate one with big fins welded on?

Steve K

[whitbred or other????]

I suppose Whitbread, but with a tube chassis instead of box, like Red-line-mikes. Or maybe an 80mm tube chassis like some bloke who's name I have forgotten.

Alan Burns, thats him I liked that truck design a lot. It survived going end over end on a comp okay, so it would be strong for winching.

I guess Malcolm would build either for you?

[Will an S111 bulkhead fit an S11... or 11a....???]

Maybe early S2 had pin bonnet hinges and S3 had those plastic inserts?

And the door hinges?

And dash position?

But I understood it was the same basic size and fitting.

[Saley Hydraulic winch - where ?]

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showuser=1189

Same question was asked on Pirate. I explained it was a "right of passage" thing. If you could find him, you truely were a customer

And I have to say, that some of my best jobs come word of mouth

It looks as though the TypeR guy you want is on holiday? So maybe the universe is saying "buy the really cool winch"

[Britpart 3.9 V8 Camshaft]

Atter recently stripping down two 3.5 RV8's with wrecked standard cams I wouldn't be fitting anything but 'good' cam parts

The bits of metal that got through the strainer and badly scored the inside of the pump housing and on one, jammed the relief valve open. So I've put the piper max-torque in.

And a duplex chain

Though is probably going too far ?

[Radiator Cooling - Electric Fan Placement]

6" won't be any good for main cooling, but fine as boosters.

Place them by the inlet port or at least by the inlet header tank. Heat exchangers are rated in watts per degree. The greater the temperature difference between ambient air and incoming fluid, the better the performance. So you blast the fins with air where they are hottest.

6" are more for oxford/intercal coolers. If you are replacing the main fan then you want two 12" with a proper air box/cowling to make the whole core work hard. Then trigger them with the biased thermo switch you have.

Sucking fans give a more even air flow than blowing fans, which have a dead area in front of the hub.

[OT: Campervan water heat exchanger ideas?]

Here we go; http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/159605551/m/8481011281

There was a really good one that showed how to do it, but I cant find it.

[OT: Campervan water heat exchanger ideas?]

Ebay one looks to be the classic Swep brazed stainless steel plate heat exchanger and should last very well.

But all you need is two 15mm to 22mm copper plumbing adapter reducers, two unequal 'T's of 22mm main and 15mm side and some copper pipe. And make a sleeve heater.

[stainless steel fuel tanks?]

That shop4tanks is cheap. We do this sort of work in ally and can't see how they make any money on those stainless!

At that price it's not worth pestering my work buddies for a free one

[Why do / did milemarker winches come with heli coils ?]

Mines the same with 3/8" unc helicoils. Except in the front, where they are M10 helicoils, which was due to an instalation error on my part resulting in some in-event damage

So if you do kill the threads I'll vouch that they will helicoil M10 even if its a bit naughty.

They partly work like studs, in that the aluminium thread is only recieving a pulling force rather than the pulling and sliding force of a bolt placed direct into the ally. (same effect seems to apply to tracks?)

And they also work because the thread in the ally might be about 12mm for an M10 bolt, so the pull force is spread over more aluminium area.

Being able to stand more removals is a good argument, but only if they don't rust. I hate them I'd rather have a threaded nut insert with the location spikes

[King of the Climb "4x4 Hillclimb Challenge)]

Sounds a good idea to me, but I only just got it back together. May need running in first

[Trolley jacks]

Fricken internet tonight is being a right moo on my machine. Should have known it would double post !

[Trolley jacks]

You definately need 3 TONNE and not 3 tonne if you know what I mean

My 3 tonne jack is the bigger style with the cog release, and it has a carp release valve that jams easily.

I'm not sure what a good 3 tonne trolley jack looks like, but I recon it's over £200

[Side Slope Land Rover]

I was on a tunnel job where they winched two dumper trucks up and down the embankment all day long loaded up. Tow motor was a recovery truck. I was suprised they didn't knock the cranks out of the dumper engines it was that steep Can you do the same with a tractor winch?

What about buying the bald tyres and putting chains through the wheel holes?

I'd buy a buldozer and drag a sledge though meself. Then flog it at the end of the job

[Disco axle rebuild calipers or Def brake calipers?]

Rebuilding depends on the dust seal seat. If it's rotted away then they arn't really any good. If they are okay, the rangy ones are a pain to rebuild, as all brake clapers to be difficult. Its a good argument for buying new

I fitted Zeus pistons which are aledgedly stainless? I'm not sure what grade. I'm sure they will be better in the long run than 'badly chromed'.

Rangy 4 pot calipers have two pipes for a two stage master cylinder. So I say the master cylinder should match the calipers. (sounds fair?)

As far as I can make out there are only minor mods to the swivel housing and that the basic caliper mounting structure is the same on the coil sprung chrome ball axels. Thats through prefix 'A', prefix 'B' and metric. Which seems unlikely given the tinkering on stub axels and casings?

[Unusual Series spotted today on my travels.....]

That would be excellent at winch challenge

[Fitting a hydraulic pump to a 4.6]

Thats another nice install

And if your reading this as a newbie, that tensioning pulley really is a lot better on the slack side of the belt. I've pushed my luck and put it on the 'pull' side before, but it isn't as good.

To make it work on the 'pull' side the tensioner pulley has to be very strong to take the drive load without flexing. But on the slack side all it really has to do is take out the slack.

[Cam compatability - 4.0/4.6 blocks]

If it's too shallow, why not fit a spacer plate with 2 timing cover gaskets?

I know the obvious answer is that the serps oil pump won't drive right, but it's going to depend how much more room is needed for the duplex chain and how far the pump and front pulley can be tweeked forward.

Or the lack of chain space might mean some case welding, but it is weldable.

Don't get me wrong on this, I havn't seen one and don't know the exact issues

(But I have created some unlikely amalgamations by a bit of sideways thinking)

[Welding a tow ball]

Your all way off

What is needed is bigger tyres on the back axel of the trailer !

[Fitting a hydraulic pump to a 4.6]

No, seemed okay, and seems okay with this new engine. I presumed I had more chance than with a front UJ prop shaft.

It's not static balenced on the crank or anything technical like that.

I need to start shoving some bits back on it and do some cleaning. The indoor 4x4 show at Stafford approaches rapidly.........

[A new engine for the Range Rover - questions and guidance]

Solid lifters so you can wind the oil pressure up with a dry sump set up

Maybe above is a bit mad, but head studs are good. There is some prob with a 3.5 kit being sold for the 4.6, but that is easy enough to trace and avoid.

[Fitting a hydraulic pump to a 4.6]

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=70986

Has the CAD download for it. RRC RV8 has a front crank boss with 6 bolts and a large spiggot to mount the pulleys. I left a hole up the middle for the crank bolt.

I was lucky and got a new 3 sheave cast pulley from Dunsfold to replace my twin sheave set up. No idea what its off, as all 3 are different diameters?

A better drive option would be standard Spider drive flex http://www.jbj.co.uk/spidercouplings.html where the one half is machined into the crank adapter.

I like my blue train joint, but I may have trouble with replacements

[Chassis Protection]

"Are you advocating the use of new lubricating oil for rust prevention in cavities and the like as opposed to commercially available corrosion inhibitors?"

No

I'm talking 'already rusty' rust prevention.

As in; rust is hiding in inacessible structures or between spot welded items.

Nothing comercial is going to penetrate the rust and clay crust on the inside of my rangy chassis.

And it's looking like oil is the only thing that has any chance of keeping my 1991 transit going.

Both, realistically, are terminal cases It is 'when' not 'if'..........