Team Idris
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Posts posted by Team Idris
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I think the ball joints are screwed out too far on the drag link. The steering box movement isn't central to the to the wheels max travel.
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There's a low mount power steering pump as well. Down on the left hand side of the engine which may be early rangy? 2 bolts on the block and the lowest two on the timing cover (one 3/8, and one 5/16).
By strange coincidence I have the SD1 manual here, and it's awful, but looks to have the same lower pump mount. For Ident' the pump looks like a cast iron gear pump with steel plates front and back, so it mounts rather like an alternator.
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Rather than risk one hell of a fight I think I'd strip it and heat it up to release the locktight.
Or strip it off and weld a washer and nut to the bolt, so the heat releases the logtight and gives somthing to spanner too. This is assuming there is a little bit sticking out?
I went down the route of locktab, as its the same hole centre as the series, so I had some.
Bad luck though
What a moo ! -
Most interesting.
Objectively I'd say the threads were so weakened by the bolts that they couldn't even take studs anymore. Rather than the studs being at fault. But it does seem like the higher torque and the higher pull of a fine thread really pushes the later engines threads. Is anyone saying the 3.5 gives this problem?
It could be as simple as metal grade between the two engines?
As far as I heard, its okay to use the old torque settings. It'll still be pulled down harder.
Nice one ARP on customer service
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"I doubt very much (see now I'm speculating) that the studs rotate when torqueing the heads."
Mine did and had me well worried. It meant i was applying movement to the ally threads, which was not what I wanted, and the whole reason for fitting studs!
I slackened and re-torqued, and all seemed to feel much better on the second pull down.
And the over length didn't foul any genuine parts, but I had to file a fair bit off my pump raft to miss the mains bolts. But thats part of the fun ao making your own sump
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There are plenty of agri PTO safety clutches out there in the 1000rpm as well as 540rpm shafts. Some are friction plate type, but others are sprung-plugers. So re-setting isn't a problem
I'd even wondered about one to protect my rear axel! But it needs a CV at both ends.
Nice machining. I like the smooth inner radious. And some smart broaching in such a short distance!
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Interesting thread. The thing with those studs is that the fine thread pulls way more force than normal, before you start on the higher torque value. We thought there might be as much as twice the clamping force?
I suspect the studs would be better locktighted in, so they cannot rotate in the block when being tightened. That was the bit that made me twitchy
But from a pure tecky point of veiw, if the studs are too long, its a good time to counterbore the block threads, so the thread force starts below the mating gasket face.
Which I think is an olden-day method of construction to stop the top of casting breaking out?
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Ask first 4x4 for there standard milemarker or typeR motor flows. They are very helpful indeed.
3/4" pipe would be too big I think. I run 1/2" on the typeR and a sneaky 3/8" valve block.
A motor is nearly a pump, so you can still turn the shaft ten times and see how much oil it pumps
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Definately pistons, as the rings are different for oil control. Blocks the same as far as I know.
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I saw it on Pirate, and it looks very good. They wondered why we brits wanted landy casings, but understood the argument of simplicity and number of S/H units. I recon it will be a good seller.
However, I think there is a very good case for an epicyclic hub kit. I wonder if it's their next project?
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Maybe the rubber boot will have to go and an old style half pipe-on-a-hinge made to fill the movement of the slide?
I've threatened a ram operated by the reverse light switch to hold off the brakes, but never tried it. Could be better than autoreverse, as long as it didn't go all icky at a traffic island ?
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All clubs seem to be struggling with marshals and officials. A few folks are doing a lot and if they stop, then the events stop. And I certainlly know of one official who got annoyed about payment for personal-outlay and changed clubs this time last year. That club hasn't run a challenge event since! So I wonder if competitiors should be chucking in more entry fee to help fund marshals traveling?
This is just a guess on my part. MOC used to pay a fiver for marshals as lunch/fuel money. Are there marshals on here who would think this sort of thing but bigger would help?
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Yep, it sure is a funny old science. Myself and Darren at work built an aluminium-oil-cooler brazing oven which had trouble with humidity. We assumed heat (600 deg.c) would make it dry inside. But all we got was a sealed box of highly corroding air
Took us a while to figure that one 
We're experts now 
So knowing this, on installing the new big compressor I piped it into a large tank first (cooling), and then into a smaller secondary drying tank for water collecting.
For coolers, my work mate Simon swears that those intercal/oxford/mocal coolers will do 100psi ? If you've got one lying about, it would save space.
As far as I can tell on tool cooling effect, if it was a 75% efficient compressor with a 1kW motor, running continually, you'ld have roughly 750watts of of cooling in the tool. I think the air inlet would have to be so hot it would burn you. But here's the math;
watts = mass flow rate * specific heat capacity * temperature
The mass flow rate is in kg's per second, so it works for any fluid. Air is 1kg per cubic meter (and car oils about 0.7kg per litre).
The specific heat capacity for air is about 1000 per kg ( about 200 for oils and about 4200 for water)
The temperature is the difference betwen what you have and what you want.
Taking a typical screwfix unit; 120 lit/min Free Air Delivery is 0.002 kg/sec. 1.5kW motor at maybe 70% efficient. Run the math backward.....
(1500*0.7) divided by (0.002 *1000) = 525 deg.c
So definate chance of burning if my math is right? And I garantee that the above math doesn't match reality on an open ended circuit. But its kept me busy for while
Try it on somthing closed-system like power steering, or hydraulic winch and its pretty acurate
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Cracking photo set
Spring change is a good idea as one broke on mine. I hate stripping half a truck for one iddy biddy part!
If your doing the transfer box, I believe I have a couple of photo's I can scan in and upload on making it 2WD-4WD independant of each other. By chucking the linkage and fitting the shaft with one of the gearbox selector balls/springs.
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Gas viscosity goes up with temperature, so maybe the diesel has more friction loss through temperature giving 'thicker' gas I wondered. But the petrol is still firing, so they are probably equal leaving the cylinder?
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We marshalled last year and can say its a really good event
Stuff we learned;
If you have any spare altenator at all, take it. Its hard on the electrics!
Don't put lights on the roof if you have a top winch. (where it went nobody knows, but I saw it leave with a twang)
Put reflective stuff on your tree straps.
Avoid the river, it's big!
Which all made for a top notch event. Good Luck
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Dad always said "your not accelarating when your in the air"
(he had the S&S long jump for a bit. No wonder the truck eventually bust in half)
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I think they know. The discussion page, tabbed at the top of the same wiki page, has some fairly strong language
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"(which is why normal diesel engines do not have any engine braking)"
That is an absolutely terrible document. We already know the S2/S3 2.25 diesel has more engine brake than the 2.25 petrol. That wiki page should be took down.
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Ditto, thats an awsome site
It said SU are good for torque, and as I just fitted a 'max torque' piper cam, I'm now a well happy bunny !
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Maybe a tiny bit of friction. But it sucks air through the throttle plate. If the volume is reduced it will take on heat energy from its surroundings. Thats why carbs used to freeze up. That's putting energy into the system, not expelling it.
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I seem to remember that these parts gave more torque and less speed? That they are just a restrictor? But there's no reason to assume the old one can't be welded up for 20 pounds. Try your local rad shops as so many coolers are ally now.
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That would be my perfect "scrap heap challenge" day
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"This is a Land Rover forum and not a Triallers forum, correct?"
Is it, cause' boy am I in the wrong place
I mean, if anyone is a fan of real early classic rangerovers, the ones with the funny centre diff, you really don't want to know what I've done to 35502070A
But have to agree, single seat super-mods are funny looking and a nad anti-social with no passenger seat
What a moo !
Took us a while to figure that one 
We're experts now 
Taking out a Mayflower/Fairley PTO Winch for EBAY
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