Nigelw
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Posts posted by Nigelw
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Not cheap but I do like it
Think this might be relisted a few times, the gap between what he wants and what its worth are too far apart.
No, free road tax and no MOT are not points enough to put it so high
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Wilĺ post a pic when home but they have the same bore as the drill bit and are secured by a small grub screw, saved me messing up several things where the drill bit could (read as would in my case
) have done other damage had it gone too far!! -
Grinding a slot works but I ran out of cutting discs on a Sunday afternoon an had no choice, 5mm drill bit an a cold chisel to split it open, I used one of the limmiting collars as not to hit the splined shaft, not fun but needs must an all that!
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I ended up snapping the control arm off the wastegate spindle, cue needing a new turbo
Cost was €550 compared to a carp "reconditioned exchange" unit for €300, difference was night and day for comparrisson!!!
C&E turbochargers rebuilt unit was as good as new, came with all studs and tin gaskets, syringe of pre-lube and full instructions for fitting and initial starting.
Word of warning, beware that in attempting to do this might mean that a local turbo "specialist" could well charge you a core surcharge as you gave thrm a box of bits of an unknown source!!!
Good luck though
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I chose a Discovery 1 over all else this time round, needed a capable off road vehicle that was comfortable and versatile, no frills or bells and whistles, just as long as it was cheap.
I off road it a lot, road books and pay and play days abound, it lugs the dogs around and can carry just about anything in the cavernous load bay.
If I stopped off roading there are better vehicles to own as daily drivers, wouldn't be 4X4 or a Land Rover.
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Oooh, my two favourite subjects, air suspension and 6X6
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Sorry Bowie, just goes to show my Dutch is getting that much better!
I have asked as I currently have an Lt77 but an upgrade? To an R380 is always an option as plenty available from D2s!!
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I found this very interesting as It will most likely be my next move with regards modifications, only really to cut my tax in half but, I think for those looking to move away from the famed rattly oil burners this could be a good solution?
https://m.facebook.com/groups/144267379068375?view=permalink&id=479883248840118
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Just an up date on these, genuine LR bushes fitted and still as good as new over 8 months and 35,000kms further.
Seems genuine or nothing at all lasts.
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Is it possible?
Googling helped as far as telling me that on a 200 the bolt holes were out and needed fettling, but what about fitting on a 300?
And does the ladder frame stay on if swapping to the TD flywheel housing?
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I keep reading through this thread, after page 1 it gets blurry, but so long as you have the tools and skills, crack on, I, in the mean time, will stick to welding
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Perhaps it's the lazy way to not have to sort out the rear lights?
Exactly, was wondering why they had cut it that way then as I read DMs comm, it hit me, the rear light cluster on a D2 is higher, could have been better executed with D1 rear corner panels and light clusters, but on the whole, I still like it
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I know it isn't Fleabay, but just look at these hopefuls!
Mike
Holy smokes, and no gold plating on anything
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You googled 'turbo timer'?
not yet but will be busy looking for him now!
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For something to do with your turbo?
Yes, was doing a lot of reading up on turbos and there are an enormous amount of factors to considerwhen it comes to the death of a turbo, overheating and lack of lubrication are the two biggest.
In another conundrum I was investigating dry sump technology as possible engine would have probably been an easier install with dry sump and saved headaches and compromises with sumps and engine placement, but I was looking into electric oil pumps for the systems over trying to get the original mech ones to do the necessary work.
Then, a couple of years on I am here with this strange idea to run the turbo on a closed loop oil system with it's own reservoir, pump, filter, and oil cooler.
Pump comes on with ignition ensuring turbo is lubed from the go, two temp sensors, one for the electric cooling fan on the cooler and the other that will turn it all off at preset temp once feed from ignition is switched off.
Yes, crazy people do exist
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Is it possible to build a relatively simple circuit that will switch on with the ignition but will only switch off when a predetermined temperature is reached?
No ideas on how but sure there is something like it for AC, where fans run on after engine is off to stop the refridgerant boiling?
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Clutch fluid is how old?
I do brake and clutch every two years, sounds like yours is old, absorbed water and boiling during use, as it boils, water expands, turns to steam that then absorbs any pressure you put in through the clutch pedal.
If I were you it'd be a new master and slave with thorough rinsing through of clutch line of old tainted fluid.
PS, nothing in a blue box he
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My plan is to butcher the original pan and the 648 one to give me a rear sump with the right bellhousing for the 722.6.
Judging by that thread Hoss posted it's a cast ally sump? Could be wrong mind?
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Yes... I understand.. but how about my question.. :-)
Dry sump?
It is perfectly possible to cut and weld a sump and it be leak free, ok, I have not yet managed one and farmed the last one out after 3 failed attempts but others succeeded
Endless possibilities my friend
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Probably worth trying a local motor factors, the pipe is only rubber pressure pipe and boost pressure is only 1.2bar, they may have or know where to get the reducer too.
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Just remember to take ALL those rags out when you put it back together, and yes I forgot one...didn't do any harm luckily.
Only harm done was to my bank balance Dunc as this is now case closed with the shiney new one
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Some compainies are unfairly picky. Turbo Technics took in what could only be described as a box of scrap when my torbo failed - the rear bearings desintegrated and fell down the oil way so both rotors were in direct contact with their casisngs. The casings were worn, the rotors worn, the shaft scored, the rear housing cracked between turbine and waste gate, and still they took it in without surcharge. Some businesses are just better than others.
C&E Turbochargers are rebuilders for Turbo Technics and my new turbo even came with a nice little instruction sheet and power graph thing, the guy even showed me where they rebuild them, didn't have my camera or I'd have taken some snaps but media blasting turbine housings and the compressor housings go through what can only be described as a big industrial dish washer first before being inspected an assessed for tollerances before hitting the scrap bin or the media blaster, suspect turbine housings get painted in some sort of fluid that reacts under UV for crack detection, very high tech!
I will say this though, the difference between the "rebuilt" turbo I was refused and the one I bought was night and day!
The one I bought.
Two new gaskets, 3 new studs and nuts and special start up oil!
Although I don't have a picture of the one I was refused, it had two old studs still in and one missing which was extra if I wanted it, wastegate actuator still covered in carp, turbine housing and compressor housings barely cleaned and then rattle can of silver over the muck and even inside the turbine housing WTF?
But all done and dusted with a lesson learned the hard way as usual
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You could give them a call before you go to collect it?
Ditto the above with regards not knowing whats in there until it's opened up, I once made the mistake of only buying a new seal only to end up doin the following......
Replace both caliper bolts that promptly rounded or sheared at the remote indication of pressure on the spanner.
Replace pads both sides as once I could better see them, there really wasn't much left!
Replace brake pipe as it was so corroded a large flake came away and leaked fluid just tying it up out of the way
Outer wheel bearing worn excessively, replace the pair on one side but just adjust the other.
Speedisleeve the stub axle where it was badly grooved and was the main reason for a mangled seal and would have eaten another new one within days!
I hope it is not too bad but had I, a) not had a very good mate with tons of spares to rescue me, and b) put it into a garage to be done, it could have been a bit of a disaster in both time and cost!
Discovery 1 Brakes
in Discovery Forum
Posted
I had a set of rebuilt calipers along with Bosch discs and pads all round, locks up all four wheels on tarmac.