Boris113
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Posts posted by Boris113
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Never used one myself but I have seen previous talk about chainsaw grease guns being used to good effect. May be worth a look?
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I'm slowly accumulating parts to do the same, if you want to use a V8 spec R380 you need the one from a D1 or better yet a D2, the P38 version is very different.
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As others have also suggested, I ran my down the outside of the chassis having wrapped it in plastic conduit to give it some added protection. It's secured to the chassis with rubberised P-clips and tech screws. No complaints, saved the headache of pulling it through and it's easier to add/modify later.
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I would in the first instance double-check your panhard rod bushes/bolts for play, that often produces a rather unnerving death wobble. Have you had your wheels balanced recently?
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I also went with Nanocom and am very happy with it, there is a wealth of PDF downloads on the Nanocom website and a useful forum if you get stuck. The main reason for opting for Nanocom over some of the others brands was that an unlock code covers a model of vehicle rather than a specific vehicle, this meant one license covered the whole fleet of 2.2 pumas at work and then I just added a 2nd one for my TD5 and another for a D4. It may well be that newer diagnostic machines by other suppliers are more capable now and the Nanocom does feel quite clunky to use but it's 7 years old and still works perfectly. Worth mentioning that software updates are free to download also.
BBS did/do offer group discounts if you can find a load of other people that are also looking to buy one.
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I can recommend both Withams and Jacksons, I've purchased LRs from them personally and plant machinery/gensets for work with no complaints. Not sure what they have implemented with Covid but previously you were allowed to walk around the yard and poke/prod at vehicles to choose a specific one that you wanted. There's some really interesting kit in their respective yards/sheds.
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The 90 lived outside for 6 months after fitting the new hood without any obvious fading, it had Fabsil applied within a week of being fitted. At the time of applying, it made the hood and straps darker (like its sodden wet) but once that dries it returns to it's normal colour and remained that way since.
Afraid I can't comment on the long-term effects of fading, after 6 months of use the 90 was mothballed into a shipping container and has remained there for the last few years seeing daylight a handful of times a year, looking at some photos from when it was fitted and one from last weekend, it doesn't appear to have faded at all though.
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Another vote for Fabsil, I bought a new tilt from Britpart which was utter rubbish but 2 coats of Fabsil sealed it perfectly. By sealing the outside, it also stopped water reaching the inner straps and puddling inside as Romahomepete mentioned above.
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Excuse the bad picture but this may help, this was before I connected the air filter housing to the snorkel. The pipework between the filter and turbo is a standard U-shaped section from a 300tdi Disco
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I've done much the same as you and used the 300tdi Disco air filter. From memory the intake pipework runs back under the filter box and connects to a snorkel on the passenger side using flexible conduit. There's no reason why you couldn't run it to the vent on the side of the wing if you don't intend to fit a snorkel though.
Just a thought from that last picture, is the filter housing low enough to let the bonnet close?
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I tend to use a combination of Park4night, iOverlander and Pitch-up across Europe and never had any problems across Europe.
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22 hours ago, L19MUD said:
Warping them is what I was wrried about. They are the standard slat type front grilles so I could replace those if it failed (but would be stuck with them not being galvanised) the rear ones are cage type from an unknown source and I want to keep them so I don't have to drill extra mounting holes
I put some slat type ones in my old burning drum with no warping issues, it was a pretty hot fire too. They looked like these ones:
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Appreciating it's not the most environmental solution, a bonfire in an oil drum has always worked for me. Similarly a blowtorch and a scraper might do the job. You could also try clutch fluid applied with a paint brush and left for a while, it's performance is dependent on the quality of the powder coating though.
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On 2/3/2020 at 9:04 PM, jonnymarzo said:
Hi! i have a question to @V8 Freak !
i have the same problem but from a higher ratio 5th in my new Ashcroft gearbox, on a Defender Td5.
I already bough the Speedohealer unit but i need a wiring kit.
i have only the unit. There are a lot of different cables available and i don't know wich one to order.
FURTHERMORE, is there anything to change in the wiring?
Thanks for your help!!Did you Speedohealer come with about a metre of wire and a plug a few inches from the box? If so I can dig out the wiring diagram from when I fitted mine (same principal - TD5 with a v8 5th gear ratio)
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My radiator is lower than normal conversions but is a factory 300tdi Defender radiator. From memory the 2.5td mounts need lowering by half an inch or so to make it all fit but I had a modified galv chassis so it's slightly different to the norm. HTH
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If it helps, here's an old photo of mine - Disco 300tdi on the original LT77 gearbox. From memory the 300tdi PAS pipes just reached to the 4 bolt steering box, radiator and intercooler hoses were 200tdi versions chopped up and extended with a 200tdi intercooler / 300tdi radiator up front. Pipework to the header tank was standard 300tdi and then I took the oil cooler pipes to my local ag specialists who re-crimped the original ends onto new hydraulic hosing for about £20.
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If you were to opt for a wide-track, I would personally aim for a Mk3. The swing-away jockey wheel is useful and they benefit from hydraulic disk brakes. You can distinguish a Mk3 from the earlier ones by the hitch set-up, Mk1 and 2 hitch arrangements sit on top of the drawbar, the Mk3 sits level with / inside the end of the drawbar which also helps them tow less nose-down.
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Those wheel arch boxes are a neat use of space! Any idea if something similar is still made?
Here's a couple of ideas for you:
My 90 with an MSS storage chest. Very happy with the chest and it's certainly strong. It's never leaked despite the 90 living outside with no roof during the summer and is big enough to lay a large socket set flat inside, the downside being that you can't store fluids upright due to the height. In an ideal world, I would like a large T-shaped chest that rises to the tub cappings, is the depth of the MSS box allowing 2 x dickie seats at the rear but with the bottom section as a drawer to prevent loosing stuff into the bottom of the chest.
And this is in my Dad's series 1 hybrid. The lower section, up to the wheel boxes is a fuel tank and the upper section has one large hinged lid with internal dividers that are removable.
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As Fridge mentions above, a 300Tdi should ideally have a breather on the timing case but the Gwyn Lewis one includes that plate.
You will want some wading plugs for the timing case and bell housing and depending on how deep you are planning on going, a fuel tank breather may be a good plan.
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A friend unfortunately had both his and his father's Series 2s stolen from Gunthorpe in Rutland on the 6th November. The number plate from the 88" was found in a field in Kelby, just North of Grantham yesterday. If anyone spots them please contact Leics Police on the below number?
STOLEN from Gunthorpe, Rutland, 6/11/19
BFP786 Crime Ref # 19000593759
FFP240F Crime Ref # 19000593739
Any information please contact Phil Lowe at Leicestershire Police (Tel 101 x 6975)
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If you can lay your hands on diagnostic equipment, the default reading for a dead TD5 MAF is 4.4 gr/hr.
It's also possible to test it with a voltmeter by connecting it to the middle pin and ground on the MAF plug. With the engine at idle. It should read around 2 volts but if it goes left or right by 0.3v then it's most probably dead also.
Have you checked that the turbo waste-gate isn't seized?
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I had a recon R380 from Ashcrofts about 2 years ago and they specified MTF94 should be used at the time.
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It would be worth having a fiddle with the selector bias springs as mentioned above, I fitted a recon R380 and the slickshift then experienced the same issues. You can test easily by seeing if the gears engage better with sideways pressure on the gear stick then adjust accordingly.
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We run General AT3s on a few Toyotas in Africa and they seem very good so far, they grip wet tarmac slightly better than BFG KO2s and are slightly quieter also. Cost-wise they were half the price which was the deciding factor but having used both on identical vehicles, we will stick with the AT3s going forwards.
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Cooking
in Getting out and about
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We tend to use a coleman dual burner cooker most of the time, it's certainly not backpack size but the convenience of being able to run it on petrol or aspen is convenient and then a Jetboil for hot drinks as it's quick to use and quick to cool down again before setting off. For longer trips we also take a fire pit which has a collapsable tripod and a bbq grill suspended from it which with the fire being off the ground, camp sites don't seem to mind.