=jon=
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Posts posted by =jon=
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Oh to win the lottery - would make getting all the things on my wishlist a load easier!
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Yikes - £270 a pair!
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OK - great, thanks. I've read all of the threads I've seen on the conversions, not sure if I've seen yours though - I'll hunt it out
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Hi,
The steering box & relay on my S3 are decidedly ropey, so I'm considering a PAS conversion instead. The fabrication and welding isn't a problem (I'm lucky enough to have a very handy Dad!), but working out how everything fits from pictures and why things are done in the way they are can be hard to tell from the pics and write ups on here...
Is there anyone reasonably local to Oxford that's done a PAS conversion that wouldn't mind letting me (and probably my Dad) have a look, and more than likely pick your brains as to how you'd do it differently if you were doing it again
From what I can tell, the simplest/best plan is a defender column, 4 bolt PAS steering box of some variety (but Disco2 preferred as they are stronger, or late RRC as they are higher ratio?) mounted inboard, and either notch the crossmember or replace it with a thinner one to get the box in the right place. Along the right lines so far?
Many thanks!
Jon
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Hi
I bought my Series 3 on a whim as it was cheap, and 'just needed a few minor bits and bobs for MOT' - 4 months blood sweat and tears later it got an MOT and it's been great guns ever since*
Just make sure you don't read too many of the threads on here about improving them - I'm already pricing up the bits for a PAS conversion!
Jon
*roughly translated as "bits have been falling off and breaking regularly"
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OK - that's good to know. Another bit to add to the shopping list! Thanks for your help
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Hi,
The drivers side door top on my S3 is falling apart - the studs have been bodged by a previous owner with what appears to be wheelnuts of the wrong thread so it flaps around more than normal, and the sticky out bit of the glass that you push against to open it with has been chiselled off!
We've already replaced the passenger side one and it was a load of hassle, but are the pre-glazed ones from the likes of Paddock (£50+VAT) or LRSeries (£70) any good?
By the time you add the price of the channels, new glass etc it's the same price near enough to get one ready made, but how well are they put together?
Cheers
Jon
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General AT2s? As said earlier, I had them for ages, although not on a LR. They worked very well in the snow, rain, shine etc. They got a bit clogged with mud when I took them round the Abingdon 4x4 day. How about Cooper STTs? They are more chunky than the AT2 and seem to be very well regarded
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Dingocroft are pretty local to me - they are very helpful if you call them up, and really know their stuff. Some of the stuff does come in blue boxes, but if you ask when you order you can probably get an alternative...
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I know I haven't seen a new G in quite a few years, but they are listed on the UK website. So now I know why no one buys them.
They are too busy exporting them to the Eastern Block to sell them over here.. I had the pleasure of going to Moscow a few years back - there's a ridiculous amount of AMG G-Wagen over there - I guess they are the Russian equivalent of a Chelsea Tractor - over here they drive a cream Range Rover Sport, over there it's a black G-Wagen with limo tints...
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I'm pretty sure it's not approved in any way - it's been built in someone's shed from assorted bits of heavy duty pipe...
But - it's sturdy, and it's welded directly to the chassis rails, I have no doubt that it would support the weight of the landy a lot better than the cab alone
Most of the 'cages' I've seen for series vehicles don't seem to mount anywhere sturdy - some of the ebay specials bolt to the top of the tub cappings from the looks of things... They look more for show then function
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As said, back to the drawing board!
Taking the cage out completely would be a shame as it's very sturdy, and I'd want to replace it with something else in case I did roll it on a P&P or greenlaning, it doesn't look like you get much protection from the standard frame!
Has anyone seen the boxes from http://www.barebox.co.uk/default.html in the flesh? They look well made and rain-proof enough...
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That's annoying
It's not going to be easy to alter it to be narrower with the grinder and welder either - you'd have to chop and re-weld nearly every joint Back to the drawing board if a hard top is out - it looks like storage boxes in the back are going to be the only way I can get more stowage space!
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I've got Insa Turbo Sahara's on my 88" - they are definitely an off road tyre rather than on road - at about 45mph they get very noisy!
If your budget is £100 a corner, dependant on size you might be able to get something like General AT2s or Cooper Discoverer ATRs - I've had both of those on my LC and they worked well in all conditions and last a long time (Generals were 40K+ miles, Coopers have been on there 15K so far and bearly look worn at all). They also have the advantage of not being remoulds...
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Sorry if some of these replies seem a bit out of order - I'm still under the 5 post moderators approval for every post
39" to the underside of the rib and 40" to the skin.
Are the ribs front to back, or side to side? Looking at the pic and my dodgy measurements, it's going to be mighty close!
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They say a pic is worth a thousand word, and I probably should have explained better to start with
I'm trying to work out if this will fit under a hardtop or not - from your measurements, it sounds like it won't
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Hi,
I've tried searching but I can't find any dimensions for a hard top for a SWB S3 - specifically the height between the wheel arch and the top of the roof about where the petrol filler would be - likewise the internal width at that point
I'm trying to work out if a hard top would fit over the roll bar that someone's fitted to mine previously - it sits taller than the curved roof of the truck cab, but the cab roof looks to be lower than the hard top roof...
Anyone with a S3 SWB and a tape measure able to help?
Thanks
Jon
Gearbox rattle
in Series Forum
Posted
It's not something silly like a loose manifold stud, the ticking is the exhaust leaking once per revolution, and as it's close to the block you hear the aftermath of combustion?
Mine does something similar under load - it's done it pretty much constantly in the 18 months that I've had it, with the old 2 and a quarter and now the 2.5 petrol. It shouldn't be UJs as they've all been changed, clutch and associated bearing were changed when the engine was swapped...