=jon=

Details are sparse... From some comments on another forum, it would appear that some of the axles are non-standard too, as some of the heavy duty military LRs used Dana axles instead of LR/Salisbury?

Not sure if this should be in the for sale forum or is more relevant in here, but it looks like MoD are clearing out a load of LR Axles... https://www.brightwells.com/timed-sale/5643?keyword=axle&page=1 Could be useful to someone...

But if it's a knockoff of Britpart, which was 4 inches shorter and 4 inches wider than the original, it would be perfect! It would be interesting to know the story behind these - something like a bulkhead isn't easy to make and would require a significant investment. Did someone commission these to be copied and these are 'extras' out the back door, or is there a big market for def parts in China? I did some reading about the Escort mk1 shells that you can get - apparently someone sent over a 'well used' rally shell to be copied, mainly to provide a source of fresh meat for the rally boys. It was duly copied, down to the last detail - so there's panel indentations where the weld patches have been copied, where the gearbox tunnel has been hacked about to fit a bigger box, etc etc...

Not sure if anyone has seen this - you can buy nearly every defender panel, seatboxes, bulkheads on Aliexpress: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Nice-Quality-Car-Steel-Bulkhead-Tdi_1600845908784.html?spm=a2700.details.0.0.1fedf435TKetGc https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Land-Rover-Defender-90-110-door_1600575784423.html?spm=a2700.galleryofferlist.normal_offer.d_title.598c30baONSte9 Even a full 90 'shell' from $5000 https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Classic-Body-Panel-Replacement-Full-Bodykit_1601081957691.html?spm=a2700.details.you_may_like.2.37d4f435m57x2v (plenty to choose from - just search for 'steel body part land rover defender') I wonder if these are terrible knock offs, or just backdoor versions of blue box parts? If anyone fancies a mk1 escort shell, you can get one of those as well! https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Replacement-Auto-Body-System-Whole-Body_1600719490785.html?spm=a2706.7843667.0.0.1ce1Vl7zVl7zYN

If you have a Costco card, they are normally pretty competitive on price with the likes of Tayna and some of the other online suppliers, and are potentially easier to deal with should you need a warranty claim - they will probably refund you or just swap it outright no questions asked. I had an issue with a dead battery from one of the other online retailers (not Tayna) - before they would RMA the battery they wanted a print out from a specific type of digital battery tester, which I would have likely had to pay a local garage with the right kit for...

With EDIS as the trigger source is probably what I meant... Running it via relay could be another option, yes. I really need to check if the external peak & hold driver (AEM) that I have acquired will actually drive the LPG injectors first - from what I understand some don't work on the same 4A/1A currents as petrol injectors, so the whole plan to ditch the LPG ECU may be a non starter anyway...

I may have a play with the MS3 and see if it will run secondary injectors from EDIS - I have the looms etc so it should be easy (in theory) to test.

That pic is back from when it had the MS2 board on it - that board was swapped with the MS3 board a while back but no other changes were made. If it's got the VR input, the swapping to run the crank sensor directly should be fairly straightforwards - rewire the sensor and swap the jumper? I'm not sure of the validity of the crank angle comment - it was Phil Ringwood at ExtraEFI who made it, and he seems to know his stuff. It seemed to be a suggestion that to use the MS3 injector outputs it needs the angle (maybe it's an MS3 specific limitation for the extra outputs?). For the coil drivers, MS3 has 8 of them built in (assuming that they work!)

Thanks - I think I have some pics of the board somewhere already, lemme see if I can find them... If I was to go with an external ignitor, it would be outside of the case - something like one of the Bosch external ignitors that can be run in the engine bay. It's already running dual fuel with a table switch and an external LPG ECU (which intercepts the existing petrol injection signal) - I was going on some comments from ExtraEFI about running secondary injectors on the MS3X: Which suggests that I need to swap over to use two 'true' sets of injector drivers... @HoSS built the ECU I believe, so maybe he can remember how he built it, although it was a loooooong time ago...

Hi All I've done some searching, but not sure of the answers... I've got MS3x up and running with EDIS. Previously it was MS2, and I *think* at build was modified to support EDIS. I'm looking to drop EDIS and run the coils direct (either with an external ignitor or swap to coils with one built in). Mainly so I can look to run LPG directly from the MS3x (via a P+H driver) rather than needing a secondary ECU. Does anyone know what mods I will need to do/undo (if any) to connect the crank sensor direct to the MS instead of the PIP/SAW? I can take pics of the board if needed to show what's there currently. Also any thoughts on running an external ignitor with the EDIS coils vs. something like VAG coils - as I am upgrading an existing setup not starting fresh is there any benefit? Thanks! Jon

Quick question for anyone that knows how the TD5 speedo head works - the output pin 1 - Doubles the single to send to the ECU - from what I can tell this is for the cruise control / speed limiter. Is it known if this is a 12v or a 5v pulse? I'm looking for a speed input to my ECU, if it's 5V I can hook it up to a digital input, if not then smoke will escape if I don't drop the voltage...

I was looking at doing similar with the MS3 - run the petrol bank from the onboard injector drivers, then run an external injector driver off the MS3x injector drivers, with a switch to swap fuel/spark maps and the injectors over. I even got as far as buying the external drivers, but never got round to it. I think the external drivers may have needed modifying as well as the peak/hold currents for LPG are different for P+H petrol injectors..

Thanks - I read through their specs and it says they can run high/low/peak hold, but I never got as far as asking if you could do a mix - run half the injectors with one and the other half with the other, or swap based on an external input if you are switching between the two via relay or similar... I'd be interested to see how you get on

Have they said it will drive low impedance LPG injectors in addition to high impedance petrol injectors, with switchable maps between them? This is one of the options I've been looking at - I've got MS3 + an LPG ECU, it all works but it's not 'great' - there's various things that could be done better if everything was driven from one unit...

I've seen a few people have fitted an external pump, and just 'sucked through' the existing in tank pump - not sure if this is an option, as it tends to be when fitting a high pressure EFI pump to replace a low pressure carb pump... But it'd be a whole load less hassle than dropping the tank out...

Thanks - Hopefully dropping the tank isn't going to be too much of a PITA...

Hi All I've been having some intermittent problems with the fuel pump on my MS powered v8. Normally it would work fine, but if the weather was really hot it'd stop priming - turn the key and there's no whine from the pump. Sometimes it would blow the 10A fuse on the relay board, sometimes it would just not run. Leave it for a bit, then sometimes it would run again, but if you turned it off and back on again it'd not prime. As far as I can tell everything is OK electrically - you can hear the fuel pump relay click on and off when you turn the key, the fuel gauge flickers slightly when the pump 'should' be priming which suggests it's drawing current but not pumping, so I guess it's on it's way out. There's plenty of guides around for changing TD5 pumps by making an access hatch through the boot floor, but nothing for a V8. Is it possible to change the pump in situ, or do you have to drop the tank? Thanks! Jon

I've not looked at MS1, but on MS2 and later one of the outputs can be configured to be a tach, which goes straight to the input on the gauge. If you are using EDIS for ignition then I believe you can use one of the EDIS pins as a tach source as well.

I have a VDO Cockpit Vision as it's a close match to the standard LR gauges: https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/vdo-tacho-52mm-diameter-0-6000rpm-333015010 I got it via the US as it worked out a lot cheaper. One of the outputs on the MS can be configured as an RPM out.

From memory the smaller tank is 45L, the larger is 55L - from empty to full is around 85L which would work out somewhere close to right as you can't fill them completely full. I think they are this type: https://tinleytech.co.uk/shop/lpg-tanks/single-hole/single-hole-cylinder-tank/ I ran the BLOS on megasquirt for a few years - you just have a second ignition table with the LPG curve on it, and a completely zero'd fuel table. I'm now running multi-point with an LPG ECU, but slowly moving more of the LPG functions to MS - gas pressure correction etc. At the moment it runs well, but there's a few niggles which appear to be because the LPG ecu makes corrections that the MS doesn't know about, even though I've disabled as much as possible. Elbekko is right regarding the injectors - you would likely need a peak + hold board to drive them. It's also likely that the currents are different to peak + hold petrol injectors (some are, some appear to work) which means modifying most of the peak and hold boards from standard. You would also be 'better' moving to MS3 if you aren't already as this offers a lot more control around dual fuels, and can do all of the gas temp/pressure correction.

I've got twin underslung tanks on mine - the drivers side is a 300mm diameter tank (can only find a receipt for the tank straps, sorry!) and just fits between the outriggers, the passenger side is a 240mm tank and shorter, but this is on a 110 not a 109 so there may be chassis differences. If you have a look at somewhere like Tinley, they have a selection of tanks, with some measuring you should be able to work out what fits. If you are starting to assemble parts - I have a single point vaporiser and a BLOS carb, probably some other bits and pieces (changeover switch, VIP mixture controller etc) which I've been meaning to sell on here - drop me a PM if you are interested.

The majority of 110's with a v8 were the original 3.5s on carbs - the standard exhaust is pretty small bore and restrictive. Even on a 3.5 (albeit EFI) I could feel a difference going from the standard 3.5 setup to the 3.9 manifolds, and then to the larger bore TD5 sized exhaust. Since I posted on this thread last time, the 4.6 is in and running, and it's a bit louder than the 3.5 was. Has a nice burble at idle, but I've still not got someone else to drive it so I can hear it from outside!

It appears that it was a failing coil pack - realised I had a misfire on LPG under load which was traced back to a failing coil pack. It's early days but it appears to have also cured the hot restart issues.

If you do away with the vacuum entirely, you may find you end up with oil leaks - on my fresh built 4.6 with the breathers setup incorrectly it would force oil past the crank pulley seal after extended high revs. Changing to the factory 4.6 setup (air drawn in from air filter on n/s bank, through engine, o/s with restrictor and spiral separator to inlet post throttle) cured it.