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auf_wiedersehen_pet

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Posts posted by auf_wiedersehen_pet

  1. I'm thinking of getting a winch for my Disco.

    It would be used for recovery/self recovery but definately not Challenges! If the last year is typical - it would have been used five times. Something like this..... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310227659616&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

    Question? The front of my Disco is a little "busy" with a Defender A bar, spotlights, Saudi grille, LED driving lights and a D44 winch bumper. Would I need to cut the coloured grille surround or mesh to gain access to the lever?

    Any other thoughts?

    kmn3.jpg

    kmn4.jpg

  2. I note by your details that you are in Malta. IMHO most of the corrosion is caused/promoted by road salt so any Disco you get might be good. Otherwise I'd check,

    • Boot floor
    • Rear cross member
    • Rear wheel arches and seat belt mounts
    • Sills
    • Inner wings
    • Headlamp boxes

    Anybody else care to add to the list?

    My Disco is an ex Jap market with very very little corrosion - I'd recommend that route to anyone.

  3. Does sound like the aux battery is not grounded properly. Have you tried putting a volt meter directly across the battery terminals?

    i had a similar problem and found it to be a bad earth connection cleaned all connections been ok so far,chris.

    Sounds like the battery earth is the next place to check then.

    Thanks for the replies again.

  4. What is the voltmeter earthed to? how is the int fuse box connected to the battery?

    The voltmeter is earthed to the passenger seat base. The int aux fuse box is connected directly to the 2nd battery using (60 amp cable) via a 40 amp fuse.

    does the 2nd battery feed the aux box through the split charger? if so there may be a connection problem in there. can you wire the battery direct to the fuse box and only have the split charger connected to charge it?

    No. The int aux fuse box is connected directly to the 2nd battery using (60 amp cable) via a 40 amp fuse. The split charge relay sits between the two batteries and "switches" with the ignition.

    Have you checked the condition of the battery,load tested it, ie its CCA etc? Could be showing 12volts but have a low output due to a dead cell? Just pop down to youre local car spares shop and they will put a tester on it .

    The same thing has happened on two previous different batteries which I had knocking about. I thought they were both tired, hence the purchase of the new battery.

    http://www.tayna.co.uk/Numax-CXV-X-1000-Amp-P7632.html

    Thanks for all of the help so far.

  5. Hi Chris,

    The voltmeter takes its feed from the internal auxilliary fuse box. It's not a problem with the voltmeter as the feed into the aux fuse box drops aswell.

    I've checked every thing with a digital multimeter.

    When it "dropped" this morning the feed into the int aux fuse box read 1.14v (the voltmeter was off the bottom of its 8v minimum) but the battery was 12.74v.

    Both gauges are analogue and I can confirm they are functioning and accurate with multimeter readings.

    Still confused?

  6. This one has had had me stumped for ages..............

    I've got a twin battery set up with a split charge similar to this http://www.wizardbilt.com/Split%20charge%20circuit.htm

    The charging works fine. The 2nd battery is new (2 months) as is the 1st battery (4 months). Both batteries have gauges to show voltage. The 2nd battery feeds an amp, an internal auxilliary fuse box and an engine bay auxilliary fuse box.

    The problem is, when the engine is switched off (and the link between the two batteries is broken) the 2nd battery will either,

    (A) Remain at a decent voltage 12-13v indefinately.

    (B) Drop instantly to less than 1v. When checked the battery is still 12-13v but the feed into the interior auxilliary fuse box is less than 1v.

    © Drop instantly for an unspecified period of time and the rise to 12-13v, then drop, etc.

    Any suggestions before I rip it all out and rewire it.

    :blink::blink::blink:

  7. I'm not an expert but I have read numerous threads about vibrations where the owners say they have checked the UJs which seem fine, only to report back a few weeks later saying it was the UJs.

    Never rule them out until they have been changed.

    HTH

  8. I decided to send it back to Dubai with Fed-Ex....which cost nearly as much as the prop-shaft its-self!

    Ouch. :o

    Have I been given the wrong one or are all D/C front props longer by design?

    IIRC, on a standard car, the original and the DC props should be the same.

    When I bought mine, I had to take lots of measurements so the correct length could be worked out.

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