ex_mod_90

Have a look at your radius arm bushes. I used to have polybushes fitted, and I too have a knock/clunk on cornering. I checked the nut was correctly tightened, but couldnt get rid of it. I then changed the radius arm bushes to genuines and the problem went away. Looking at the old bushes they were quite worn where the radius arm shaft goes through the bush. Rich.

Hi. I can only re-itterate the above. I am not using his recommended springs, I am using softer D44 springs (I think D44F all round) as there is virtually no weight in the back. Articulation is very good, so much so that I need to modify the rear arches to get the 35" tyres in on full articulation. I have also drilled the bushes in the front radius arms. On the road, hum its not great but I put that down to Simex + Soft springs + drilled bushes. Its certainly not the OME bits. Its very robust granted its not as pretty as Devon 4x4 stuff, but this is solid and very functional. Gwyn is also a very decent chap, who will always help out, and wont sell you anything that is carp!

quote name='richfear' post='215900' date='Jan 9 2008, 02:36 PM']Hi. I have Gwyns challenge kit, again cant really speak highly enough about it. I didnt use his springs I used slightly softer ones, as mine is a full rag top and has very little in terms of weight in the back. Again not the prettiest stuff in the world, D44 stuff gets that vote in my book, but as countless other people have said it works, and it works very well. I am at work now but i'll try and put some pics on later when i'm at home. Everything is exceptionally strong and well made, its still made by Gwyn, and if you have questions or problems then the customer backup is second to none. He is an exceptionally nice guy who knows a hell of a lot about Land Rovers. (I am not related to Gwyn, nor do I get any discount, I am just a very satisfied customer). I built up to the challenge kit over approx 1 year buying bits as the budget allowed for. Take some time to look around and see just how many people are selling Gwyn lewis chellange kits (or parts of it) and they are doing that for a reason, because it works. No you wont win the twist off challenge with it but you can drive it home and get great articulation off road. Again its a buyers market and you pays your money and takes your choice. I have seen many Scropion springs sagging, and indeed I believe that QT dont use the 'blue' springs on thier 3 link truck any more but use OME springs because the 'blue' ones sagged. Just my 2P worth. Rich. As promised some pics, This isnt really trying just a bit of a laugh at a local P&Play site. Hopethis helps. Rich.

Hi. I have Gwyns challenge kit, again cant really speak highly enough about it. I didnt use his springs I used slightly softer ones, as mine is a full rag top and has very little in terms of weight in the back. Again not the prettiest stuff in the world, D44 stuff gets that vote in my book, but as countless other people have said it works, and it works very well. I am at work now but i'll try and put some pics on later when i'm at home. Everything is exceptionally strong and well made, its still made by Gwyn, and if you have questions or problems then the customer backup is second to none. He is an exceptionally nice guy who knows a hell of a lot about Land Rovers. (I am not related to Gwyn, nor do I get any discount, I am just a very satisfied customer). I built up to the challenge kit over approx 1 year buying bits as the budget allowed for. Take some time to look around and see just how many people are selling Gwyn lewis chellange kits (or parts of it) and they are doing that for a reason, because it works. No you wont win the twist off challenge with it but you can drive it home and get great articulation off road. Again its a buyers market and you pays your money and takes your choice. I have seen many Scropion springs sagging, and indeed I believe that QT dont use the 'blue' springs on thier 3 link truck any more but use OME springs because the 'blue' ones sagged. Just my 2P worth. Rich.

Thanks for the encouraging reply, I guess the mounts are the same then? and I just need to exchange the pulley. I also guess that the 300tdi 100A version has bolts, are these a direct 1:1 replacement, i.e. is it obvious which wire goes where? Any pics would be appreciated, also what mm2 cable did you use for the upgrade to the battery connections? Do you use a single battery or a pair in parallel? Thanks for your time. Rich.

Hi, I have a normal I think 65A Alternator, however this is a bit tired and I am looking for a replacement. My question is, will the 100A 300tdi fit my 200tdi, I know the pulleys are different, but are the connections at the back of the alternator the same, mine has a plug, but I think the 300tdi has a bolt connection? If the 300tdi has a bolt connection how easy is it to convert the connections, and do I need to uprate the wiring back to the battery. Any other suggestions on alternators would be much appreciated. Thanks Rich.

Hi All. After a bit of advice really. My XD9000 was lacking somewhat in performance, so I have taken it to bits. Planetary gears are in excellent condition, however due to neglegance on my part, the motor is pretty kippered. The main motor shaft bearing is siezed solid, the commutator is in a very sorry state, and the rotor has been rubbing on atleast two of the 4 magnets. So pretty much stuffed. I am going to ask the local Warn dealer about getting it repaired, but I am expecting the worst, and will have to fork out for a new motor. Question is should I fit a normal replacement or is it worth fitting an XP motor for the extra money? I am not planning on letting the winch get in such a sorry state again....... Also how can I stop this from happening again? I am planning on refitting the motor and gearbox using a bead of sealant, however can a breather be fitted to the motor? Whilst I am writing what grease should be used? Thanks for your time. Rich.

Hi Mike, I am a big fan of proper quality Jate rings, these fit in the original mountings for the lashing eyes on the chassis. My prefered recovery is using a bridle across the jate rings and then a good quality strap looped through this, not joined with shackles..... I have only ever used so called one piece jate rings often found on military vehicles, they are top notch. Another very useful recover point is to use a NATO tow hitch, just make sure you have both spreader plates (one for each side of the cross member) Rich.

Hi mate. My mate is waiting for his creepys to be delivered. I'll get him to post some pics once there on. With regards to Gwyns kit, very very good, i'm highly impressed. Rear end flex is good, i'm not using polybushes only Genuine LR items. The 25's now run the inside top of the tub, so I need to cut out the rop of the tub and make up some sort of tyre expansion extension.......... The front I was not very happy about but since swapping the polybushes (fitted when I got the truck) to geunie LR, items and getting handy with the drill, the front end flex is pretty good, Pic attached taken last weekend, the front end articulation was much better but I moved the truck forward before my mate took the picture, tyre almost disappeared apparently. I'll give it a go on the twisy off ramp at the next show to see how well it goes. I have had to cut the rear arches by quite alot to get the tyres up. All in all very impressed. I am not using Gwyns OME springs, I think mine are OME 764's which are slightly softer.

Hi Welcome to the forum, I am quite new here myself. I am running 35x11.5 16' Simex ET's. I am also running Gwyn Lewis challenge kit. I currently have 24spline rear diff from a Disco and an early 90 front diff. All on standard 1/2 shafts, no lockers etc. I have 'yet' to break anything. My rule is never to be too heavy with the right foot. If its obvious you cant get out, then lift the right foot. Following this I have yet to break anything. What I am saying is that its not 100% necessary to uprate everything straught away, I am planning to stick in hardened 1/2 shafts and CV's but this will like you I guess be as time and money allows. On the tyre front you could look at Simex Jungle Trekkers, a mate of mine has just sold his Grizzleys, he loved them, but is going for some Creepy Crawlers. However saying that another guy in my local club had his Grizzleys start to shed blocks on the motorway....... I used to run BFG MT's and loved them, great on the road, and not too bad off it, however if your trailering it then you can obviously go more agressive. Rich.

I run Gwyns kit, and I havent had any issues with the springs relocating. I do know that the spring has to be in a certain position to be certain that the spring slides down the cone and catches on the hook. I dont run Gwyns OME springs I run I think 764's which are slightly softer, and arent progressive. I kind of agree with the hook limiting travel to a certain extent, however judging by the compression on the opposite spring I cant see that it can go much further. Rich.

I can only agree with everything good that has been said about Halfords tools. Used the stuff for some years now, and its great. I havent has cause to use the warranty yet, but I am impressed with the quality. I have really abused the ratchet with lengths of scaffold tube used as entension bars, and has never let me down. Fab stuff. Rich

Thanks Will. As I mentioned in my 1st post I currently have 35x10.5 16's, which are the ET pattern. I believe that the 35 11.5 R16 is an ET2 style, 3 lug? Dont want to swap rims as although they are only steels, they do have a decent offset and means I dont need to run spacers, so want to stick with the 16" rims. I was just canvassing opinion. I have seen pics of ET2's with alternate lugs chopped off. It seems to be a tad barbaric spending nigh on £200 a corner, and then start cutting off the lugs! You have basically hit on what I thought that the tread on the ET2 seems to be closer and therfore heoretically wont self clear as readily? Maybe someone can contradict me or offer some advice. Thanks again to all who have taken the time to reply. Rich.

Thanks Chaps. As I am very pleased with the performance of my Simex i'll stick with them despite the cost...... Just one point before I part with my hard earned, whats the verdict on ET2's i.e. the ET with three lugs rather than the traditional 2 lugs. Thanks for all of your replies Rich.

Hi Chaps. I have been registered here for a bit, but this is my first post here. I currently have a set of 35x10.5 16 Simex ET's, which I am looking to replace. I have read various posts here about the Maxxis creepy crawlers/mudzilla tyres, but no=one seems to have used them in anger in the UK, I can find quite a few people using them in the states and in Australia and they seem to get good reviews, but they dont really have the same gloopy mud that we have in the UK. Obviously there will be some trade off between the Simex ET and the Maxxis tread I just wondered if anyone had any real life experience of using the two. One option would be to buy Creepy crawlers and then a set of beadlocks allowing me to go drop below 10psi........ Anyway if anyone has any view please let me know. I guess I am not the only person wondering that the Maxxis perfomance is like in the deep mud. Thanks Rich.

Hi, I used GLR10 from http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-...lays/timers.php on my heated windscreen project. Works a treat. Push button to turn on the screen, auto off after 10 minutes. Rich.