Sunray-I40

thanks Pete - I always worry about metals mixing, presumably I should avoid using a stainless rivnut at the top? where did you get your coated p clips from - I've always thought those plastic things looked rather flimsy?

What's the 'recommended' method of fitting the lower edge of wolf light guards to the headlight / nose panel? Rivet the plastic clip or secure the clip with a rivnut? Do the plastic clips last - should they be replaced with something more durable? I have wolf light guards but they are going on my defender 300tdi 110 so I'm not worried about 'wolf authenticity'! I plan to use a rivnut and bolt for the top light guard hole rather than the turn-stud and flimsy metal clip -unless there is better advice!

after some googling, skytag seems to have a good rep simon. i wonder if there's discount for 2 - 110 and trailer! tirfor/black rat photos on the way

I am looking at getting a gps tracking system for both my 110 and modified sankey camping trailer. can anyone recommend a reliable, effective and cheap system? thanks

i'd love to know if anyone has done this. if you're right (and my mech eng knowledge is basically zero) then you can save a lot of people a lot of money! thanks

ta very much

Hi experts I'm looking at silicone hose kits for my 1995 defender 300tdi intercooler. they all seem to be either around £40-46, or £65-70 - the only difference that i can see is that the expensive ones have a fluorosilicone lining, and the retailers of the cheaper ones can't confirm wether theirs do or don't! So are ebay £45 jobs ok, or do I pay more from someone like siliconhose.com? thanks

thanks very much out of curiosity do you know what the difference is between the rtc and alr front nose/headlight panels?

Can anyone help me with part numbers for the following for a September 1995 Defender 110 station wagon 300tdi VIN: SALLDHMF7TA974250: 1. front headlight/nose panel (offside and nearside) --I am not sure if I need RTC6353/6354 or ALR 5989/5990, and I can't figure out the difference between these parts 2. offside wing top panel (the panel the radio antenna usually comes out of, i think LR call it a wing front) 3. I can't figure out the proper name for the part but its the rear end panel above the back door which connects to the roof and vehicle sides (the panel that usually has rear work lamps fitted to) thanks in anticipation! jerry

I tried a broquet fuel catalyst out of curiosity since during extensive research I found the original DTI test report, I found lots of reports of improvements from users (particularly subaru impreza owners and a well regarded engine tuner on the fast car circuit), and lots of anti comments but interestingly none from anyone who had actually tried one. So I decided to risk some dosh! After my first tank of diesel in my 110 300tdi, I can report that driving as I normally would and with no other 'changes', my town average MPG has gone from 26.25 mpg to 27.95. (+6.4%). I can also hear a distinct change in the engine sound - it's a much smoother sound at a lower pitch than before (I play in a band and do actually have a keen ear). I have no idea about any emission improvements though! I shall keep checking the MPG for every tank to see if this was a one off fluke or not.

has anyone got a Broquet fuel catalyst in their tank? they say I should get (conservatively) 6-8% more mpg in my 110 300tdi with one fitted. what are people's experience --especially 300tdi owners?

I am researching new tyres for my 110 300tdis (a county and a hardtop) and am interested in what MPG people get for General Grabber TR, Gen Grabber AT, Gen Grabber AT2s, BFG AT, and Goodyear G90 -around town and motorway runs (if you stick at 55-60mph). Also what are your tyres like on wet tarmac and snow? I'm also interested in recommended tyres for these typical uses of my 110s: County - 70-80% road use, off road use tends to be on mud/wet fields - often towing sankey trailer and not looking for trouble/serious challenges. Hardtop - 60% road use, 40% off road use which is a real mix of mud, gravel Thanks in advance for the benefit of your wisdom!

Gaz Gussler what mpg do you get on your 110 with Gen grabbers, which size Gen Grabber TR tyre? thanks

Can anyone familiar with a Land Rover 90/110 Wolf XD or TUL/TUM HS tell me what mileage you get to the gallon on long road/motorway runs and urban use with an unloaded vehicle? I'm curious as to how it compares to ordinary Defender 90 and 110 300tdis.

I want to be able to self recover my 'new' defender 110 300tdi (with came with a winch bumper but no winch) and am considering what to buy. It seems to me that in many situations it's better to come back out of what you drove into - in which case a front-mounted winch is n't much use. On that basis, a tirfor is a more useful thing to have. And I can't see an electric winch is going to be too reliable if you go wading accidentally! Am I missing something? If it's an either or choice, is tirfor the way to go? if there's an existing thread on this please refer me!

There may be a relevant thread somewhere so if so please refer me! I want a tirfor winch for self recovery of my Defender 110 and sankey trailer. Which model should I go for? Do I need pulling power of 800 kg or 1600kg? and do i look at the TU 8/16 models or the T508/516 models - I can't figure out the pros and cons of the TU v T5 series!

Does anyone know if the britpart and other 'copies' of the defender military bumper are made to the same spec as the MoD bumpers - are they as strong? I need a replacement! thanks

Does anyone know if the britpart and other 'copies' of the defender military bumper are made to the same spec as the MoD bumpers - are they as strong? I need a replacement! thanks

can you email a photo please - jeremy@tozerofdevon.net

is that oval hole just on service defenders? could such a hole be safely cut in (maybe lined with a steel tube) without reducing the structural integrity?

thanks very much. can you email a hi res pic please? jeremy@tozerofdevon.net

Please can anyone help me answer this question? I have a civvy 1995 300 TDI defender 110 with NATO tow hitch for my Sankey trailer. It has two standard civvy power sockets at the rear (12N and 12S) —trailer lights and 12V power from the spare battery. These sockets are always getting damaged because they are not flush with the rear cross-member and are fitted below the tow hitch (as per most civvy land rovers). Do you know if it is possible to fit military trailer light sockets, with the sprung flat cover/flap, to my cross-member, ideally one either side of the tow hook? I would insert a photo here if I knew how to do it (can anyone help with that?)! Assuming these military mounts and flaps are large enough for the inner part of 12N and 12S sockets, there are no suitable holes to use in my cross-member and I wonder if cutting the requisite holes would weaken the cross-member (do the army use reinforced cross-members or what?) Many thanks in anticipation of your help and expert knowledge