GW8IZR
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Posts posted by GW8IZR
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7 hours ago, Peaklander said:
On reflection I agree that emery is too abrasive but I think wet and dry is perfectly ok.
I don't think contact cleaner removes that black tarnish sort of layer does it but it's certainly good for potentiometer wipers etc.
That pencil brush looks interesting. Does it abrade the surface at all though?
Right then, when I re read what I said it might have sounded a bit abrasive :-) my apologies, to be clear when sat at the side of the road with a duff car and no tools I've cleaned a contact with the side of a matchbox! what I should have said is if you have a choice then something less abrasive is much better than emery cloth...
Your correct that Aerosol contact cleaner like 'Servisol' etc wont shift the oxide layer and in this kind of application is not much use but as a water displacement after cleaning the contact it will help reduce oxidisation, the manufacturer will have plated the contact with something akin to tin and often cleaning an oxidised contact that thin plate will be removed - the contact will now work but the corrosion resistance will be degraded. A squirt of switch cleaner or a smear of Vaseline etc will often be advantageous.
I have used a chemical cleanser which I imported from America to brighten contacts and it worked well but I ran out of it many years ago and cant recall the name but it was very similar to Goddards silver dip used in jewellery work. Again very thorough cleaning afterwards with a solvent like IPA is essential.
The pencil brush is fantastic - I first started using it as pretty much the only certified tool for cleaning relay contacts in the late 70's - it will whip of oxide and tarnish and leave a very fine surface, now its not perfect and of course it will also damage the plating if over used. The tiny fragments of fibreglass do stick in your fingers and hurt like '****' and the oxide deposits from the contacts can act as a semiconductor so cleaning the dust away properly is important in some cases.
Often to clean contacts such as typical LR electrics we need nothing more abrasive than a piece of cardboard
HTH
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These are very useful for gp contact cleaning - I wouldn't be using emery cloth or anything so abrasive on contacts of any sort.
HTH
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On 28/03/2017 at 1:34 AM, paul Ireson said:
Can i change clutch on my 1984 Defender 2 1/4 petrol by taking engine out instead of struggling underneath taking box out?
Either way is similarly complex, on a four poster I think dropping the box is a lot easier, if you only have a crane its more a 50/50 choice.
I would make a judgement call based on the state of the vehicle and any other work I wanted to do at the same time.
On a 1984, possibly footwells to do etc...
HTH
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20 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Ross - All I can say is PALLET RACKING and standard industrial plastic crates. These things:
Pallet racking stores about 4x more stuff than workshop shelving purely because it's so very deep & wide (8x4 sheets of OSB as shelves) and using those plastic boxes means you can always buy more the same (identical) size so they'll stack - if you buy branded storage boxes from a DIY shop etc. they're never the same size as the next season's batch when you need another load of them.
Keep an eye on eBay for used ones you can get them for £5-£10 a box, may sound spendy but being standard units you can of course always sell them again for the same money. Likewise pallet rack, buy a popular flavour like Dexion or Apex and you can always get extra beams/uprights and you can always dismantle & sell what you've got.
I wouldn't bother much with ebay, they are as cheap and often cheaper direct from the supplier.
No affinity with apart from being a satisfied customer but try Alison Handling https://www.alisonhandling.com/
Even if you dont buy anything from them the website has some good storage ideas.
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Its brilliant, its good to see people still have humour and take the trouble to give others a laugh - one of the sellers 'other items' is particularly funny and I recall one apprentice at the loco works in 1970 (ish) being sent for a can of that stuff :-)
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2 minutes ago, geoffbeaumont said:
GW8IZR - I'm not aware that any mods have been heavy handed in any way. The only member of the mod team who has posted (prior to me) is Happyoldgit, who has merely said that the mod team are aware of this thread.
shoot me for a missed comma ...
To be honest the rules are contradictory anyway, rather than the heavy handed approach here, mods could have simply asked Graham quietly to stick to forum rules and add OT to the title (or done it themselves) which would have avoided all the unpleasantness that followed.
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To be honest the rules are contradictory anyway, rather than the heavy handed approach here mods could have simply asked Graham quietly to stick to forum rules and add OT to the title (or done it themselves) which would have avoided all the unpleasantness that followed.
Quote:
Rules and regulations
Rules and regulations have deliberately been kept simple and have been left to 'common sense' (snip)
As this is a Land Rover forum members are expected to keep the majority of their posts about Land Rovers or subjects closely associated with them, their use, repair or modification. Some off topic posts are acceptable but in this case the post title should begin with the letters 'OT' as an indication that they are not Land Rover related.(snip)
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2 hours ago, Bowie69 said:
I think I'd want 4ft either side really, leaves room to open the doors properly, take out half shafts etc.
I reckon this is at least as important as height, its a complete pain when trying to squeeze past the open doors when working from engine bay to cab
At the end of the day we use what space we have but if possible... wider is better
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4 hours ago, Cornish Rattler said:
Thanks guys for all the kind words as all this really helps and only the other day I was looking at B.C. pups on the web but I will wait a bit till I decide to get another one but I really do miss him though
Perhaps think about an older dog, many in the rescues and homes that need and deserve the good home you can give.
Admitted some of the rescue places make you jump endless hurdles to prove you can do what you have been doing for 17 years... but once through that, a rescue is a rewarding and sometimes challenging venture.
HTH
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I'm sorry Graham, its a terrible time to endure.
At times doing the right thing is the hardest decision.
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58 minutes ago, miketomcat said:
200tdi series disco 1 input flange is a standard 4 bolt flange and the last year of that series were 24 spline.
Mike
Your right Mike, my reply was too generic to cover all variants and I hadn't thought of early Discovery bits, but I thought it worth mentioning that there were some subtle differences to catch out the OP when he is collecting the bits together.
Its always a challenge when the vehicle is made from bits ( much like most including mine ) and keeping a diary of what is fitted helps when you have to replace bits later down the line.
HTH
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Yes you are correct its the ratio that matters. For example I currently have a 10 spline ATB diff in the back of mine and an open 24 spline front,
Your standard diffs from a coil sprung vehicle should be 3.54:1 ratio, the only minor difference is a Discovery 1 rear diff has a three bolt prop flange compared to the 'normal' four bolt flange. You can swap the flange if your donor diff dosen't match the prop.
HTH
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I think fitting a Discovery axle might be the best way if you want to use D1 alloys, you will need to swap the front axle control arms as well as the width is different.
There are alloys that will fit the early axles, the old three spoke wheels from a range rover should fit or more recent ZU type alloys fit as they don't cover the drive members.
Its very common to swap in D1 axles to get disc brakes at the rear but just be careful about the swapping of too many parts from the original, if its a substantial rebuild you might want to think about whether it can retain its ID... a whole other story :-)
HTH
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You need to be quite careful here as with some combinations the alloys can foul on the drive member before the mounting face of the alloy sits flat on the mounting face of the hub, effectively the wheel is not clamped flat to the hub, if this is what you are experiencing its very dangerous.
As an example I know Discovery 1 alloys will not fit onto early 90/110 front axles, Discovery axles have a much flatter drive member to reduce the protrusion , nor will those wheels fit on very early range rover rear axles.
Stick some pictures up and that will help clarify what your trying to fit to what, as a quick test put some copper slip grease on the mating surfaces and fit the wheel, then remove it and look to see the grease has evidence of a proper fit.
HTH
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1 hour ago, Gregved said:
Just been driving me rebuild around last couple weeks. Got it tracked (doubt this is the cause) and I've noticed the 2 front wheels were wobbling/out of alignment.
What did the people who carried out the tracking say about it?
If it was fine when they tracked it and its moving about now then something has broken/shifted and it should be fairly simple to see what.
I think I would start by removing the probably bent road wheels, then stick a dti on the brake disk (or improvise an indicator with a stick and weight) and see if there is any run out on the disk and wheel face, if that's in spec it has to be either the wheel is bent or possibly something like wheel spacers coming loose - Its also worth considering that some road wheels dont fit all axles properly, if the hubs are stopping the wheel seating properly that would cause the run out.
HTH
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2 hours ago, neil110 said:
On mine the exciter wire at the alternator is the standard brown/yellow. However, somewhere in the recesses of the dashboard there is somethng which looks for all the world like an inline fuse holder. After which the wire, to the warning light, is white. Within the confines of the fuse holder is something which is the same sort of size and shape as a glass cartridge fuse, but it isn't a fuse, at least I don't think it is. It has the same end caps as a glass fuse but the bit between the end caps is covered in a the same sort of stainless mesh as Aeroquip brake hoses. I have a spare one in my electrics box, just in case, if anybody is curious I will take a picture of it. Question is, what is it's function?
Its a resistor, it's in parallel with the warning light so that the failure of the charge warning light on the dash doesn't stop the alternator getting excited.
on TDI's only a tiny amount of current is needed to hold the fuel solenoid open once its been activated. On TDI conversions using the old NA Di or 4cyl petrol wiring the combination of the resistor and charge indicator current is often enough to hold it open when you turn the key to position zero. This can be resolved by fitting a diode capable of handling a few amps and with a PIV of more than about 50V in series with the excite wire, a 1N5401 will do the job. A disadvantage / unintended consequence of fitting the diode is that there is a bit of volts drop and sometimes a blip of accelerator is needed to get the alternator going.
HTH
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15 minutes ago, =jon= said:
I know it's a vapour build at the moment, but I'd probably wait and see what the government decide - currently the London ULEZ will mean you have to pay an extra tenner a day in the congestion charge zone if your vehicle isn't euro 6 compliant if it's a diesel, or euro 4 for petrol cars. It may end up that older petrol cars get hammered by this as well
Voice of reason for sure.. until 'we' know what the press and environmental pressure groups railroad through by bullying witless politicians there isn't a lot to be done with confidence.
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8 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
The Jaaag X-Type I eventually bought for half the price claimed 45mpg (2.2D, a-la Puma/Transit) and, spending its life on the motorway at 70mph plus VAT it's currently managing 43mpg.
Yes, 'er brother has the 2.2 6sp manual and it seems to run on fresh air!
I had thought of putting a 2.5 / 2.25 petrol back into my 90 as its a very early one and might be nice if it were original(ish) - I do about 1000 miles a year so consumption isnt realy a consideration.... I have struggled to find an engine, I suspect there are a few laying in sheds 'in case' and lots went when the scrap metal price was high.
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1 hour ago, ronnie_rotten said:
And yes, I have to agree, testing and registering it again would be the key to selling it easily. I can see exactly why that would put people off. I'm not going to have chance to do anything to it until April really, but then I'll get stuck into it if it hasn't sold. I recon the price might creep up a bit then too.
And that would be correct, with test and sorted it would be worth a bit more.
I seem to find people want a ticket so they get twelve months to use it and sort anything else out.
GL
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I reckon the registration process is putting people off (even though its a piece of cake to do) - I reckon you should invest the time to test it and get it back on UK plates and you would easily recoup the effort. I also think making a bit more effort getting the photos exposed properly would help.
HTH
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The best thing I ever did was remove the PO's bucket seats and harnesses .. fitting proper seats and inertia reel belts was a transformation.
Used on some pretty demanding lanes I never felt inappropriately strapped in
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nice honest sounding advert for a change.
Cant help but think 'just needs wiring' is a bit optimistic but I bet it sounds fantastic :-)
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Here many things have and will increase in price, not always due to an increased cost..
Gotta love opportunists..:-(
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I made up a lever out of 25mm galv conduit - imagine a simple lever with two forks, position the wheel near the hub by rolling into place, put the fork under the tread and just lean back the handle. The wheel goes up / down and when its in place just shove it on the studs. It worked well on small truck / tractor tyres and doesn't rely on a smooth surface like something with wheels would. If I was making one today I'd add a few braces but the thing worked well enough
How much!
in International Forum
Posted
What was the restorer thinking - doing a so called nut and bolt restoration, expecting top price - and using tread plate!