GW8IZR
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Posts posted by GW8IZR
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1 hour ago, Jocklandjohn said:
Ooo er mister!
Anyway the hiatus today allowed me to run some wires and a relay to power it: I'm not chancing the 28 year old wiring with that thing running on full chat. I fired up the 3" one across the battery terminals and it fairly whacks those blades around so is pulling a good healthy supply of current - and possibly not what I'd be wise to stick through the existing wires.
I'll measure the current on the 4 inch one this weekend but the case on mine is marked 12 amps
I think I will re assess the wiring once I know what the current really is.
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I'm not sure if mine is the same vendor, I just clicked the link in @western Ralph's post above.
I just opened the box and fortunately mines a four incher ..... erm well you know what I mean :-)
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apparently my blower has been delivered today so I can have a look at the job this week.
I lifted the bonnet yesterday and then remembered where the washer bottle, second fuse box / relay panel, sundry other bits of nonsense I've fitted into the space next to the vent. It will take me an hour to get to the thing before I start fitting it :-)
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2 minutes ago, qwakers said:
so id say 11mpg in a defender in town is feasible..
For sure , as I said 11mpg on short runs compared to 21 ish on long runs.. if you are making a decision about an engine swap / fuel choice you kind of need to know what to expect in as many situations as possible - rather than an average which might not be how you plan to use it.
Funny though, no matter how hard or carefully I use the TDI and in whatever situation each tank returns the same mileage +/- a little bit.
I don't factor in dentistry and hearing damage though :-)
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32 minutes ago, Chicken Drumstick said:
I think your numbers are out. A Tdi will vary a heck of a lot more than 2mpg going from short to long journeys. Especially if you are claiming a 50% reduction in mpg on a V8...... Nothing tallys up I'm afraid.
Also 11mpg from an RV8 says it's broken.
Maybe not in your world..
The figures I've given are my experience and if you knew me you would know that I dont lie and my vehicles are very well maintained.
Hey ho!
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When I swapped out the 4.6 v8 and fitted a 300 TDI into my 90 the fuel consumption on a 250 mile run changed from about 21mpg to about 32mpg
On short journeys it changed from nearer 11mpg to about... 30mpg, so if you do lots of short runs its perhaps a consideration.
At the same time I changed from mud tyres to new AT tyres which I assume are a bit better so the consumption and running cost doesnt change that much..
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4 hours ago, Wave Mountain said:
Are Richards THE only new chassis mob to go for (3 month wait i gather ?) or are Marshland acceptable ?
When I did mine I looked at both Marslands and Richards, I bought at Marsland.
Everything just fitted and if you care about such detail its the closest to 'new chassis to original specification' that you can get.
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My wife's Freelander 2 was just about 12 months old (5K miles) when it became disabled by the ABS module becoming 'corrupted' - the treatment by JLR was first class and I cant really complain.
My fear was that just re programming the module would only be a temporary fix but it did another 12 months without issue - the warranty bill was sorted by JLR. I asked the dealer for a rough idea what it would have cost me out of warranty - he reckoned about 1K! .....What! to reprogram a module?
That car has gone now and no doubt most modern cars are similar but it makes you think keeping older cars when they become more affordable on the road is going to be much harder.
There again if we rewind to the first TD5, there was an outcry about it being impossible for private owners to DIY maintain them yet now they are mostly considered old simple technology. I suppose reverse engineering of ecu's and systems will develop and hopefully we will eventually get to a similar place with the current crop of cars.
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small bag of peanuts per 100 miles .....
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5 minutes ago, Mo Murphy said:
I wasn't keen on dragging another 6 amps that it wasn't designed for through elderly wiring and connectors plus no one has mentioned a fuse.
It's up to the individual but I want to reduce the risk of vehicle fire not increase it.
Having said that, a vehicle fire is guaranteed to warm the cab up ?
Mo
Yes I agree, thats why I don't reckon connecting the blower in parallel with the original blower is a good move.
The wire and 'fast' ( relative term ) switch contact look substantial enough to run the new fan in boost - mine hasnt arrived yet, I only ordered it yesterday but I suspect the original fan wont do much once its in place. Even though I ordered one I'm still undecided whether a more modern motor on the squirrel cage might be better. Once in bits I'll decide :-)
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5 hours ago, Mo Murphy said:
... Or you could just run it through a seperate switch and turn it on and off as required.
Mo
..Much simpler to just connect it to the correct two wires.
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1 hour ago, Snagger said:
The Defender blower is switched on the earth side, not the feed, so that's why you had that issue. Connect the new blower's earth to the high speed earth wire (I can't remember which one it was) and it'll behave correctly and will only activate when the old blower is on high.
That's correct and is how I plan to wire mine, if you were to just run the fan in parallel to the original motor the dropper resistor would be over run a bit (more than it already is) and its a bit awkward to swap. Of course you can put the dropper external to the duct and then pick a bigger dissipation and lower resistance to make both run faster. If you were to use the original dropper resistor for both fans the original fan will run even slower.
this bloke on ebay must be 'blown away' by the run on his fans :-)
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when I used my 90 properly and it used to get wet I just had a set of sealed beam lamps, they were rubbish but never failed and would always provide enough light to get home, they didn't attract the attention of the traffic boys and would always pass an MOT. I used auxiliary lamps to provide the bright light but considered them as consumable.
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I have trimmed one with a sharp pair of scissors, it has been in service a year or so with no problems.
I worked in from the edge in a spiral cut and dressed it once fitted.
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Certainly the first one I bought was very good at spinning the meter but I leant it to someone who had a burst pipe and they found it so handy I never saw it again, the new ones from Screwfix are much better. I think the autumn is here for good now so it they will be back in service shortly.
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Sometimes the theft of LPS goes unnoticed for a while, depending on the inspection regime but yes traceability has made a fair difference to the number of reported thefts.
Smart water made a big difference as well, enough difference to make me use it at home.
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2 minutes ago, Tal said:
hey its got cruise control .........
I imagine cruising anywhere in that would be an achievement and quite possibly terrifying :-)
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'currently the interior is removed to allow fitting a new floor... possible jobs needed completely new suspension and a battery'
I suspect a battery would be the least of the problems :-)
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32 minutes ago, Cynic-al said:
I can't believe that
Sadly I can. its indicative of the couldn't give a damn society that is being created. Yep there have always been thieves and they almost always did damage but wanton stuff like that is abysmal.
Trouble is they will most likely turn up on e-bay and someone will fuel the fire by buying them.. often to replace stuff they have had stolen.
At the height of the copper scrap price a few years ago we were having earth systems stolen every night, the thief didn't give a toss about the safety of the poor engineer turning out to fix stuff, they walked onto a site and cut the overhead feed to the site stealing the conductors and leaving the bare live cable across a footpath. My engineer turned up at just before first light and caught a dog walker just about to move it out of the way so he could get past.
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Hi
You may already have done this but have a read at the instructions, it might say something like leave it stood in its upright position switched off for 12 hours, then re start it.
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doesn't matter if you have one follower or 10,000 followers.. they are always smarter than you ;-)
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As with all these changes it will take some interpretation to be sure.
On the basis that the requirement doesn't seem to have changed I read it as: if your vehicle doesn't need an IVA you don't need to IVA it to prove it.
It shouldn't make much difference as something like a modified chassis ( shortened or not to OEM spec etc ) still seems to need IVA no matter how old the vehicle is.
Reason for change, I suspect its similar to the now removed VIC .. it wasn't having any effect, just an admin burden. Crooks were not being caught as they never presented the ringers for checking.
It will be interesting to see how this develops.
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I bought two of these which were on offer at 75 quid each, they work well for what you are trying to do.
They keep my 'radio' shed bone dry through winter and the 'machine' shed dry enough not to need oil on the ways to stop rust.
When the utility room with washer / fridge freezer had a little leak which was unnoticed for a few days it dried it out in about a week.
There are more powerful ones and obviously its not an industrial tool but you are working in a fairly small volume.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/16l-d-dehumidifier-16ltr-dehumidifier/1379g
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Get a dehumidifier, they are fairly cheap from screwfix in the UK etc and they work well. They work well in the home and workshop. Newer ones are a bit more efficient, the first one I had was about 600W when running but over the years it solved a lot of damp and flood damage.
I bought two new units about 18 months ago they were on offer at about 75 UKP each.You need the car or area you are drying to be fairly well sealed ( so you aren't de humidifying the whole of Belgium ) so close off and tape up any fresh air vents and it helps if you take the drain outside of the car as you can just leave it running without letting damp air in every time you have to empty its tank.
The fan stirs the air up and they take lots of water out of a closed space but this will take a week or so to pull the water out of the carpets and sound deadening stuff.
"supercharging" your heater
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
see that wouldn't work as the steering wheel is in the way ;-)
is the red convoluted hose poking out of the existing heater aperture direct to the screen demister vents? I reckon thats a good improvement over that big tin box as standard.
Those blowers are much better at delivering air than the axial fans we are all fitting