harle

I must say though on my 200tdi, I use a 70/30 SVO/DERV mix in the summer and 30/70 in the winter. It runs fantastically, its alot smoother, seems to have more power, you dont get that lovely black smoke on start up, more of a grey smoke now. As far as im aware veg oil is a better lubricant than diesel, although it has a greater viscosity at any temperature, particularly when cold. Im sure its better for the environment, no added sulphur (probably better for the engine as well) It also smells soooo much nicer than diesel and as a result people tend to feel hungry when they get a lift with me I just make sure that i do an oil change every 3000miles, and use the glow plugs (wait til you hear the tick, rather than wait for the light to go off). I also changed the fuel filter at the first 500 miles to allow for all the carp to surface from the tank. I would recommend it . I used the pura rapeseed from the tesco when it was £0.57 now its £1.07 so im actively seeking a new source, luckily i bought loaaads while it was at the cheaper price!! I suspect it is critical that a good engine oil is used, i use castrol magnatec - which i must say is a great oil, fortunately i get it for free . Just my 2p on the matter.

When i replaced the belt, the belt that i was removing was a genuine part and that had dayco branding on the belt. Have heard Gates mentioned before though, perhaps they were the OOEM

Its Hylomar Universal Blue, it does say on the packet "use on gaskets and metal surfaces" Maybe other types of hylomar are different?

I suspect it was caused because i changed the clutch, using the method where you remove the engine, so perhaps strain upon removal etc, about 500 miles ago. I did notice that the coolant level would drop a couple of cm's each week, and on sunday night it just started pissing it out. It was drip.... drip.... drip with the engine off and drip drip drip drip drip drip drip drip drip with the engine on Anyhow all is well now, new genuine water pump, timing case, timing block, coolant aperature gaskets (genuine) and one OEM Kelloggs Cornflakes™ Fuel Pump Gasket (it was a choice between corn flakes or rice crispies), with a smear of hylomar on the back just to be safe. Greased all the gaskets as well. I did go through several pairs of underpants though, especially when removing the camshaft sprocket i managed to turn the camshaft Thank fully it wasn't that bad to reset the timing, as it was just a case of lining up a few arrows, but it was still a PITA!!! Timing belt changed, with all new oil seals and tensioner. I was literally shaking when switching her on though, that wait for the fuel system to prime, while you crank is traumatic. All is well, engine sounds nice and clockwork in the engine bay (shame it doesn't sound so nice, by the time its rattled every panel on her) and to say i am relieved is a massive understatement. Thanks for your help guys, much appreciated. Hopefully i will never have to see that gasket again

Pardon me its a 200tdi. Jim if ya know a way for it to run on water please share

Ive got a leaky engine (coolant that is), it seems to be coming from the coolant aperture behind the timing housing So to replace that gasket i have to remove the timing cover etc. I phoned up the local dealer and they only sell the fuel pump gaskets in packs of 10 at 80p a gasket. Does anybody see a problem with using a corn flakes cut-out as a gasket in this instance? Any other pointers would be useful too

Ah i see, always useful to know stuff like that, thanks Ian. Thats pretty impressive at 12.30 am

Just wondering... does anybody know why is there a diode running parallel to the relay? I'm just interested in how the circuit works.

Mines playing up at the moment too, if i were to completely remove the motor from the door, would it still pass its MOT? I know there are a few MOT testers on this board that may be able to answer my question.

Thanks for that info, will have to note those sizes down. But for now ive bought an engine crane and i dont really need one atm lol. I was planning to change the clutch using one, but looks like i will just be hanging it off the crane to do that.

Greetings wise ones! I have bought a 1/2 ton engine stand, and it doesn't really come with any instructions just a diagram of how to assemble it. Thats assembled now. My question is regarding the attachment of the engine to the stand. Looking at the picture below, do i just use the bolts from the bellhousing, or will i need some different ones. If they're different can anyone remember the size of them? Cheers