harle

It certainly sounds like an interesting idea. Indeed, much more of technically rational concept for improving efficiency than one of the ridiculous (IMO) Hi-Clone 'swirler things'. I don’t agree with some of the previous comments which say that it won’t work because the law of conservation of energy says it won’t. Although, I’m not saying it will work. It’s about balancing the equations. The diesel that runs through my Defender’s engine most certainly doesn’t undergo stoichiometric combustion (or anywhere close) therefore, energy is wasted on non-useful energy transfer. Assuming that the addition of H2 to the mixture increases combustion efficiency, then it is plausible that the energy gain from increased useful energy transfer is greater than the increased electrical load. My suggestion would be to obtain some of the SAE papers cited in this Wikipedia article http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen_fuel_enhancement. At least that way you may be able to assess the extent to which you will increase efficiency from a (supposedly) impartial source, as a pose to the marketed BS from these American suppliers (I’m sure I saw 50-100% improvement claimed on one of the sites! ) Skimming through some of the sources, I would suggest that you would have to be prepared to play with fuel:air mixtures to achieve best results. Onto more practical considerations - What’s the engine that this will be fitted to? What kind of efficiency is expected from the electrolysis? And how would this modification affect insurance? I’d be genuinely interested in hearing the details of your setup and results, and by all means prove these snake oil cynics wrong. Good luck!

Might be worth leaving it overnight with the brake pedal wedged on and the front axle on stands in order to keep the master cylinder the highest point in the system. Does the trick for me.

Hi all, Stumbled across a free 10ml sample of the "all new" loctite 243 and 270 formulations here -> http://www.loctitesolutions.com/index.php Save you a few quid and a trip to the motor factors ....

Google is your friend.... try "Brunel Silver paint" first and then once youve found the name of the paint, try "stephen hull"

I had the same thoughts as you did when it came to grease. Used the moly grease for CV joints on the wheel bearings having the belief it would be a better grease for them. However, as time went by the grease got very liquidy, so much so that it seeped past the oil seals and only the brake disc! DOH!! I only noticed because she would pull to one side under braking. The workshop manual recommends Castrol LM as one of the bearing greases IIRC, ive stuck to that and it seems ok. I think i read somewhere that Moly grease is only designed for 'sliding' applications such as CV joints, gearbox input shaft to clutch plate spline etc, and not for 'rotational' applications i.e. wheel bearings. Thats my 2p

Id say it would be rude not to include bushes with shocks What make from paddocks did you have in mind? I recently ordered de carbon from paddocks for the front shocks and the steering dampner, and they came with bushes. So id assume the rear shocks would have bushes (for de carbon at least)

Whatever you do dont hammer it in! Made that tragic mistake today, went in fine til about halfway, and then the metal started to shrink over the top of the rubber. Im also interested in what others do to get those damn things in, I did see a method described here http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...nhard+rod\ which looked quite good. I was thinking instead of the washers at the top, to use a socket that bears on the outer edge only, what do people think? I read les etc use a vice to press them in, do you put a socket on the outer edge of the bush for that method?

When i changed them i disconnected the caliper from the hoses, clamped caliper in vice, placed a piece of timer between the pistons (where the pads and disc would go). I used one of those ciggy lighter compressors attached to a bike inner tube valve with a sqaure of rubber remaining, then switch on the compressor, place over the brake input, and POP!!! I think i had to use mole grips as well to remove some of the seized pistons in a twisting motion. Make sure you get an extra pack of seals, one of those stupid retaining rings is bound to bend, i would strongly advise genuine too, so much better quality. Hope that helps.

My 200tdi runs on a mixture of SVO and DERV and the smoke it white/grey to start off with, when going up through the gears the puff of smoke is again white/grey. If the engine is revved really hard, like in the MOT test, the smoke is black. But once warm and stationary no smoke at all. Perhaps it could be attributed because you run pure veg when the engines warm?

Could be many things. Its normal to have the white smoke on start up. When its warm and stationary, is the volume of white smoke the same as at start-up? The most serious it could be is a internal coolant leak, which granted is pretty serious. The 1st thing id check is your coolant level. Followed by the smell of your exhaust, put your nose in a bottle of antifreeze (ethylene glycol) if your exhaust fumes smell like that sweet smell of ethylene glycol, you have almost certainly got an internal coolant leak. If you haven't got these symptoms then you can probably discount internal coolant leak. Other things to check are exhaust connections? Regular service items, fuel filter for example? Also do you run on veg oil or anything like that? What engine do you have btw?

Some people jack up the front of the vehicle, and wedge the brake pedal down, so that the master cylinder is in the open position, allowing air to raise to the top of the system. Personally i incoporate lots of tea breaks, whilst bleeding brakes of any older vehicles.

Thats kind of James Bond if it makes you feel better, nice big black smokescreen. Not as good as rockets though, and of course the red button when you flip up the gear knob to fire them . Just make it worth your while and fit a NATO hitch . Now heres a kick ass Def ->

That seal could be the part SJO100080, which was mentioned in the EPC although it was in red. I may just leave it in that case. Thank you very much for your help cipx2. Very much appreciated.

It seems i have the "interim" servo that LR couldnt bothered documenting Paddocks list the description for STC4322 as "Brake servo -non ABS-90 from HA701010 and 110/130 fr HA901220". Which adds up as my VIN is after that 110 quoted. I'm assuming its a lucas part, so if someone is able to tell me the servo type, then i may be able to get the correct kit that way. I might phone up LR technical dept, although last time i rang they were about as useful as a chocolate fireplace. Edit: Heres a few more pics to perhaps help identify this thing

I'm not sure either description matches the servo i seem to have, the info on the duckfield site conflicts with the info on the rimmer bros site http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/rimmer/land-ro...s#Brake%20Servo According to the EPC i have the servo STC442 (superseded) -> STC4322. Ive got a picture of the servo here and ive measured the diameter, which is approx 270mm. The rimmer bros info states that for the type 50 it has "276mm diameter non return-valve aperture at top left." Which may be mine, although the part no is different, but from what perspective is left and right in this case? The EPC does have the overhaul kits on there for the 50 and 80 with those part nos quoted, but it is claiming that it is not applicable to this specification.