harle

It certainly sounds like an interesting idea. Indeed, much more of technically rational concept for improving efficiency than one of the ridiculous (IMO) Hi-Clone 'swirler things'. I don’t agree with some of the previous comments which say that it won’t work because the law of conservation of energy says it won’t. Although, I’m not saying it will work. It’s about balancing the equations. The diesel that runs through my Defender’s engine most certainly doesn’t undergo stoichiometric combustion (or anywhere close) therefore, energy is wasted on non-useful energy transfer. Assuming that the addition of H2 to the mixture increases combustion efficiency, then it is plausible that the energy gain from increased useful energy transfer is greater than the increased electrical load. My suggestion would be to obtain some of the SAE papers cited in this Wikipedia article http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen_fuel_enhancement. At least that way you may be able to assess the extent to which you will increase efficiency from a (supposedly) impartial source, as a pose to the marketed BS from these American suppliers (I’m sure I saw 50-100% improvement claimed on one of the sites! ) Skimming through some of the sources, I would suggest that you would have to be prepared to play with fuel:air mixtures to achieve best results. Onto more practical considerations - What’s the engine that this will be fitted to? What kind of efficiency is expected from the electrolysis? And how would this modification affect insurance? I’d be genuinely interested in hearing the details of your setup and results, and by all means prove these snake oil cynics wrong. Good luck!

Might be worth leaving it overnight with the brake pedal wedged on and the front axle on stands in order to keep the master cylinder the highest point in the system. Does the trick for me.

Hi all, Stumbled across a free 10ml sample of the "all new" loctite 243 and 270 formulations here -> http://www.loctitesolutions.com/index.php Save you a few quid and a trip to the motor factors ....

Google is your friend.... try "Brunel Silver paint" first and then once youve found the name of the paint, try "stephen hull"

I had the same thoughts as you did when it came to grease. Used the moly grease for CV joints on the wheel bearings having the belief it would be a better grease for them. However, as time went by the grease got very liquidy, so much so that it seeped past the oil seals and only the brake disc! DOH!! I only noticed because she would pull to one side under braking. The workshop manual recommends Castrol LM as one of the bearing greases IIRC, ive stuck to that and it seems ok. I think i read somewhere that Moly grease is only designed for 'sliding' applications such as CV joints, gearbox input shaft to clutch plate spline etc, and not for 'rotational' applications i.e. wheel bearings. Thats my 2p

Id say it would be rude not to include bushes with shocks What make from paddocks did you have in mind? I recently ordered de carbon from paddocks for the front shocks and the steering dampner, and they came with bushes. So id assume the rear shocks would have bushes (for de carbon at least)

Whatever you do dont hammer it in! Made that tragic mistake today, went in fine til about halfway, and then the metal started to shrink over the top of the rubber. Im also interested in what others do to get those damn things in, I did see a method described here http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...nhard+rod\ which looked quite good. I was thinking instead of the washers at the top, to use a socket that bears on the outer edge only, what do people think? I read les etc use a vice to press them in, do you put a socket on the outer edge of the bush for that method?

When i changed them i disconnected the caliper from the hoses, clamped caliper in vice, placed a piece of timer between the pistons (where the pads and disc would go). I used one of those ciggy lighter compressors attached to a bike inner tube valve with a sqaure of rubber remaining, then switch on the compressor, place over the brake input, and POP!!! I think i had to use mole grips as well to remove some of the seized pistons in a twisting motion. Make sure you get an extra pack of seals, one of those stupid retaining rings is bound to bend, i would strongly advise genuine too, so much better quality. Hope that helps.

My 200tdi runs on a mixture of SVO and DERV and the smoke it white/grey to start off with, when going up through the gears the puff of smoke is again white/grey. If the engine is revved really hard, like in the MOT test, the smoke is black. But once warm and stationary no smoke at all. Perhaps it could be attributed because you run pure veg when the engines warm?

Could be many things. Its normal to have the white smoke on start up. When its warm and stationary, is the volume of white smoke the same as at start-up? The most serious it could be is a internal coolant leak, which granted is pretty serious. The 1st thing id check is your coolant level. Followed by the smell of your exhaust, put your nose in a bottle of antifreeze (ethylene glycol) if your exhaust fumes smell like that sweet smell of ethylene glycol, you have almost certainly got an internal coolant leak. If you haven't got these symptoms then you can probably discount internal coolant leak. Other things to check are exhaust connections? Regular service items, fuel filter for example? Also do you run on veg oil or anything like that? What engine do you have btw?

Some people jack up the front of the vehicle, and wedge the brake pedal down, so that the master cylinder is in the open position, allowing air to raise to the top of the system. Personally i incoporate lots of tea breaks, whilst bleeding brakes of any older vehicles.

Thats kind of James Bond if it makes you feel better, nice big black smokescreen. Not as good as rockets though, and of course the red button when you flip up the gear knob to fire them . Just make it worth your while and fit a NATO hitch . Now heres a kick ass Def ->

That seal could be the part SJO100080, which was mentioned in the EPC although it was in red. I may just leave it in that case. Thank you very much for your help cipx2. Very much appreciated.

It seems i have the "interim" servo that LR couldnt bothered documenting Paddocks list the description for STC4322 as "Brake servo -non ABS-90 from HA701010 and 110/130 fr HA901220". Which adds up as my VIN is after that 110 quoted. I'm assuming its a lucas part, so if someone is able to tell me the servo type, then i may be able to get the correct kit that way. I might phone up LR technical dept, although last time i rang they were about as useful as a chocolate fireplace. Edit: Heres a few more pics to perhaps help identify this thing

I'm not sure either description matches the servo i seem to have, the info on the duckfield site conflicts with the info on the rimmer bros site http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/rimmer/land-ro...s#Brake%20Servo According to the EPC i have the servo STC442 (superseded) -> STC4322. Ive got a picture of the servo here and ive measured the diameter, which is approx 270mm. The rimmer bros info states that for the type 50 it has "276mm diameter non return-valve aperture at top left." Which may be mine, although the part no is different, but from what perspective is left and right in this case? The EPC does have the overhaul kits on there for the 50 and 80 with those part nos quoted, but it is claiming that it is not applicable to this specification.

Greetings! Im planning to replace the seals on the brake master cylinder this week, so i may as well get the all the braking system serviced. In both the workshop manual and the owners manual a mysterious "Renew brake Servo filter every 36000 miles" appears. The only problem being i can't find a part no for the servo filter. Does anybody have any ideas? Ive got a 1991 Def 110 CSW 200tdi. Cheers

well you can certainly tell it was written by a motor journalist...

id try here http://www.landrover.ee/est/varia/downloads/cars.htm also google land rover RAVE, all usefull stuff there. Also just a little pointer from experience make sure you get GL4 spec EP90 or EP80w/90 for the transfer box, someone please correct me if im wrong, but i have heard it has brass components in there. They recommend GL4 spec in the workshop manual either way. Good Luck!!

As much as id love it to be an englishman that invented the diesel engine, the hot bulb engine is slightly different (which was invented by Mr Herbert Akroyd Stuart), although diesel based his design on the hot bulb engine.

There would have been a seat in the middle in the front. That middle seat is the most useless thing ever conceived tbh, probably why its been removed. It couldn't even fit a 3 year old. I did read somewhere a while ago that my 1991 110CSW was a 12 seater, the implication being that the bench seats seated 3. Your contact at land rover may be referring to the newer defenders, where it would be 2 per row, but more like a seat than a bench. With insurance companies its best to over compensate, if you make a claim and there is absolutely anything inaccurate with regards to the details in your insurance, you will be taken right up the arse mate! Personally id remove those bench seats, then you've got 5 seats, cheaper for insurance, more room in the back. That would be spot on for you guys, great for camping, expeditions etc. 10 lads in a landy might raise a few eyebrows, not to mention the smell Have you checked out adrian flux insurance btw?

What servicing has been done on her?

Full metal jacket, or clutch claw. Few hidden switches for fuel stop solenoid and starter relay.

Totally agree with you there, I'm not dependant on mine, ive got another vehicle to use should the worst happen. For someone who uses theirs as a work vehicle perhaps a tad risky. Its a case of trial an error i suppose, in that there isnt conclusive scientific evidence out there that tells us which setups it works well on without causing premature wear etc. The main glimmers of hope for me that it wont be detrimental are that the 200 is a bloody strong engine, often hailed as the best engine LR ever made, and when Mr Diesel designed his engine it ran on peanut oil B) Like you said though the savings are getting smaller by the day as lots of people are catching on to it and generally high food prices. It would be interesting though to hear of high mileage veg oil landys. I know a friends granddad used to drive one (series II i would imagine) in guyana on some type of oil (possibly coconut) I don't know the full details but it sounded pretty much the norm over there, albeit totally different climate.

I read it in a chemistry textbook, IIRC it forms H2SO4 (sulphuric acid). Obviously over time this results in increased wear on mechanical parts and the engine oil itself. One of the reasons sulphur content is constantly being driven down in DERV.

The tax law has changed AFAIK, 2500 litres duty free see http://www.hmrc.gov.uk/briefs/excise-duty/brief4307.htm. I was at one point seriously considering using red, did a bit of research. Aside from the dye, it contains a marking compound that stays in your tank for quite some time. Its also got a massive sulphur content, which is defo not good for you engine (good lubrication though ) I think i may pop along to the church, must be worth it for a bit of fuel