willfromsussex
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Posts posted by willfromsussex
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Could just do axles complete, easiest. However the front diff pan has a big old dent in it so you may not want to use that or if you do, weld on a new pan
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Today I am breaking a Rangie I bought the other day. It has a Nissan engine, which is already spoken for but most of the rest is avail, eg front and rear diffs, windows, bits of interior, set of disco steels, towbar, window motors, switches, relays instrument cluster..grille, headlamp borders, electric mirrors, rear quarters brake booster/m cyl, calipers etc
PM me or ring (don't text) O77O2 348604
Probably taking remains to scrap on Weds or Thurs this week so ask NOW if you want something removed.
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Mine appeared to have been butyl originally, so thats what i used , lovely stuff, super easy to use, amazingly it doesnt stick to your hands! Its basically, to all intents and purposes,, Blu-tac, but in a long bead and black! Got mine on ebay.
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How much was the 2dr lhd shell out of interest
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I have these bulbholders (new) if you need em. they have a tab at each side so are easy to fit , but quite hard to pull out without breaking when they are old and crispy.
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Anyone got a Left side sliding window catch? Mine is all broken. THanks
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YOu could disconnect the drop arm joint and see how the steering feels, and also disconnect the track rod to test each side on its own.
My steering on mine is heavier than I'd like, and I know its down to the amount of assistance from my particular box. Did wonder if it was possible to dismantle the valve gear and mod it to be lighter (different torsion spring or something)
Just been having a look at this manual
http://www.scribd.com/doc/23074934/1995-Range-Rover-Classic-Repair-Manual-PART-II
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Looking good, front numberplate might look better if you turned those brackets round (and had them behind not infront)
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maybe put a new ad up *they dont let you edit on here!* with a appropriate title
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Do you want this goalpost, as its still sat here outside and I will advertise it if you don't want it. Please message me.
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Some quite neat details, such as the flush scuttle badges and engraved door handles.
I'm looking for some modern offset wheels like that for mine to get around my wide axles problem.
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in my opinion it wouldn't fail (body isnt about to drop off) but what I did with mine was get a die grinder with carbide bit, and neaten up the rusty holes back to clean metal, get the shape nice and even, straight edges etc and if you do it right, and huff a bit of aerosol over it when you're done, it will look like a factory hole/vent in the panel. They can;t fail something on 'excessive corrosion to..' if the corrosion has been taken away. It will also help stop it getting worse.
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Pretty much there with mine yes , its on the road, still some work to do on interior.
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As in from A pillar back to where goal post attaches.
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I have got loads of cars running that have been stood anywhere from 8 to 27 years. I love it. 27 year car (Datsun 100A) needed a tow to get the valves to seat and get some compression into the thing, then it started and ran as sweet as a nut!
Something very satisfying about hearing something run that has been abandoned for years. Dug a 120Y out of a barn in Essex that had been there since '82.
It actually started and ran (just) on the smelly old petrol that was in it. There aren't many cars that will do that. Cooling system had suffered a bit, waterpump had let water into its bearings etc, and it needed new heater hoses etc. But in no time I was blasting around the motorways in it, Devon etc.
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Barn it says.. thats blatantly been stored outside in all weathers.
I saw a pair of 2dr side frames on Ebay about 5 years ago, If I had got a Range rover by then I would have bid, I forget what they sold for, maybe about £300 to £500 the pair? Bargain for someone.
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Just picked up one of those books today, actually not as helpful as I thought. It says:
Remove headlining rear section
Remove expander strip
Remove the plastic runners from the sliding channel and slide along.
Lift out front glass
Lift out rear glass.
That does sort of make sense other than it seems crazy to have to remove the headlining to change a glass.
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I might try butyl for mine. I was lucky and found two new channels. STill like to know the correct order for installation.
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Thanks. Just googled the part number you PMd me and they come up on britcar website also , more money but at least they show a pic.
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Aah.
Some good welding there. I like your front seats, can you explain what they are , and have they got seatbelts in?
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My door locks aren't connected, found a rod at the bottom of the door with what looked like it was once a balljoint on it, I've had a look around the net and can't find them , maybe I have the wrong name for them, anyone know what I mean?
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What do people normally do there? From a safety point of view I was tempted to leave it where it is and make a finisher panel above. Front bumper is also standard place on chassis with gap above it.
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I love V8s ( i have two American cars with V8s) but I also like doing 30mpg and being able to put vegetable oil in if I feel like it
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So far I have no wires, I just wired the motor up temporarily to see if it worked.
Heres a pic today.
Dismantling a 1985 Rangie 4 door today
in Range Rover Forum
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bump. do i take the diffs out? this has to be out of here soon.
Would these be the 24 spline ones (does that mean where the halfshafts fit to it?) and whats the one people want more, front or back? Or are they the same? And what are they worth? Just working out if its economical to take them out or just weigh everything in, thanks