red-dragon

As Vulcan suggests as long as it's a 90 you're building you'll be fine with the 300tdi axles front and rear. A 110 takes a Salisbury axle at the rear so only the front axle from the 300tdi disco would be of use. If you have other vehicles to use as a donor/have time to look around scrapyards, you might want to consider a stronger rear diff given you have the option as you're building from scratch. On my v8 the rear axle has a 4 pin diff which I believe is standard for the model (this is uprated from the standard Rover unit you'll find in your 300tdi rear axle). You are pretty unlikely to find a v8 90 in the yard now however logic might suggest the v8 disco (which you might) was equipped with the same equipment, so if you are looking for a 'donor disco' might be worth specifically looking for a v8. The front however is definitely just a standard Rover setup. A disco v8 owner might be able to confirm whether the rear of a v8 disco got a 4 pin as standard. Not that I condone tearing apart any land rover petrol heritage however!

Hi, My 90 has a 200tdi loom fitted, which does have the later type 'dim dip' circuit fitted. However, I am not using it and do not have anything plugged into that connector behind the dash. All the lights work perfectly in terms of switching function. When I turn on sidelights at the switch that is all I get which is what I want. However, when I am on dipped headlights mode, the bulbs only light up dimly. When I then go to main beam the main headlamps light up nice and bright. So my only issue is the dip beam stage where the dip beam bulbs are clearly not getting the full voltage. I know it's not the earth connection as dip/full share the same earth, and full beam is having no problems at all. Any ideas?

Sounds like the ignition switch wires are touching, on a diesel there is a heater inhibitor terminal next door to the exciter (or 'tickler'). Could be loose connection/insulation missing/ignition switch buggered. Look in that vicinity.

Definitely replace with the sealed LED units. Much better than the fish bowls that come as standard.

Cheers Western, diagrams were a massive help. Think I'm almost there now! For info the pictures above were the following: 1) Glow plugs connector. 2) Voltage sensitive relay 3) Piggyback connection, nothing needed to be done 4) Instrument panel illumination circuit multi-connection/piggyback 5) Trailer loom connection (if equipped) 6) Headlights related. Possibly to do with the dim/dip unit but not yet figured this out properly. 7) Interior light 8) Unknown what the specific use is, but it is a green +ve accessories circuit power line 9) Unknown what the specific use is, but it is purple and greens +ve accessories/interior lighting power lines

Hi I have a 1986 V8 90 with the original ignition switch Have just installed a new loom designed for a 200tdi. Please can you offer some guidance as to how this could be wired up?? Thanks in advance!

Hi, You are absolutely correct, on further research this is definitely a 200tdi wiring loom, not a V8. However as you say there seems to be enough similarity between the two that I am (perhaps bravely, perhaps naively) cracking on with it. So to confirm we have a 200tdi loom which I am transplanting into a 1986 V8 90. Spent today installing the new loom. There are quite a few connections that I am unsure about and do not know what they do, whether they are even relevant now that this loom is in a V8, or whether I need to do something with them to modify things? Perhaps you can give some advice! Also - I have also put photos below showing my stock V8 90 ignition switch, and then a picture showing the wires that I am assuming are ignition-related on the 200tdi loom. How should I wire this up/modify things to suit? I am guessing there are some glow plug related bits that I don't need on my configuration, but not sure where to start so any and all help gratefully received! I am going to post that up under another thread now, as that could well be of specific use to somebody else later. Help on identifying all the connections in the pictures in the post below would be fantastic! Thanks in advance Cheers 1) White coloured rubber connector? 2) Yellow coloured relay holder box? What do I put in here/do I need to? 3) Small connection with green and black wires 4) Joining block connecting lots of red wires and a red/white - do I just leave this as it is? 5) Another bullet connector plug? 6) Multi spade terminal connector block? 7) Bullet connectors? 8) Bullet connector? 9) What else should I be connecting in to the remaining terminals?

Given the chassis number on most 90/110s is generally very difficult to read anyway due to corrosion, paint, waxoyl, years of crud I wouldn't worry too much anyway. Any tester or inspector is going to be more interested in the vin plate on your brake box or radiator housing depending on the generation of the vehicle. Chassis stamp is just corroboration and if you have the receipt for your replacement chassis and it is clear from paperwork you have notified the insurance company (I.e. You are seen to be operating above board) you are highly unlikely to have a problem.

Have done some research and yes it seems the warning panel layouts are indeed the same. Any views on the 3 extra connectors up in the binnacle area of the loom? 1x hard black plastic block (group of small female bullet connectors) 1x grey block (group of female spades) 1x standard rubberised normal bullet connector block - coloured white

The connectors are the rubber encased type in the main however there are a couple of extra connections up at the binnacle end. There is an extra rubber encased bullet connector block that is white? There is also one which is a hard plastic connector with smaller bullet inputs (in pic posted below by my thumb) and a small extra grey multi plug connector. Any ideas? I can post some more pics up if required. Also I am worried about the warning light panel, is it possible the layout of the printed circuit is different/does the 200tdi loom have any extra/less warning light circuits? Those two chunky connectors that have a slot in them are the ones in question. Are these the same wiring layout throughout the years? Specifically between 86 v8 and the 200tdi. Cheers. What a minefield!

Hi all After some wiring issues I am now fully replacing the loom on my 1986 v8 90. My chassis number starts SALLDVAV... I have purchased a new autosparks loom via a third party which was described as the right part however now I am looking at it, it is very similar but not the same as the original one I had in the vehicle. The label reads: LANDROVER 51213570 DO PRC 8243 ISSUE A 05021 Please can anyone confirm if this will fit the vehicle without modifications required? If it is different then what modifications might be required and how involved/advisable would this be? On first looks the fuse box is different (for a start there is only one panel rather than 2) and it accepts blade fuses rather than glass ones - however as long as functionality is the same I would probably prefer this setup. The binnacle connections also look slightly more numerous and possibly some additional connectors to the old one? Any advice would be extremely appreciated! Thanks in advance.

Western, thank you - this has been terrific. Extremely helpful, cheers for scanning that in for me - another happy V8 will be back on the road this week.

Hours on Google, to no avail. Hoping someone has a PDF saved somewhere, or practical advice on where I might be able to locate this! Cheers.

I bought a set of new bowls from paddocks too, along with the wipac crystal lamps. All fitted OK on mine, no problems at all. That was a while ago, probably 10-12 months. I wonder if there is a dodgy batch out there, its a pity that you are having to bodge them in, perhaps try sending them back and ask if they have another batch of them they can check sizing with. They are great lights, nice and bright, been very pleased with them.

Hi all, Does anyone have a link/copy of a full wiring diagram for the Main Loom (bulkhead/dashboard loom) for a 90 V8 3.5? Currently doing a full re-wire and in dire need of some useful reference material! Thanks in advance, hope someone can help me out - seems to be gold dust to find this information online.

Dave, thanks for the info - very useful. I was toying with the idea of an electric valve, or just running two pumps (basically two fuel systems) but hearing that yours is working I suspect that the valve is the way to go. Sounds like a much better system than all this transfer pump hassle. Any further details/specs/pics of your valve setup?

Hi all, couple of questions on fuel tank set-ups on an original V8, which presently only has the single tank, under the drivers backside. Plan is to add a long-range tank at the back. If the TD5 brackets are added to the chassis in the rear, is it possible to simply add in a TD5 fuel tank and sender unit, but plumb this in for petrol? I've heard that the sender units don't like petrol very much and can give up after a while, however this is a bit unconfirmed. Also pressure is a concern. The alternative I was wondering about was whether it is possible to fit the petrol fuel tank and sender unit from a Discovery 1 V8 or Discovery 2 V8? Do these tanks use the same fuel tank mounts as the TD5 and would therefore be a bolt-on with the TD5 mounts? Thanks, any practical suggestions appreciated (based on the TD5 mounts being in situ already, and putting a second tank in that position).

Retro, do you have any more info on the difference in bolt patterns? From the previous images I was under the impression they were all the same 5 bolt design however is it a sizing difference? Was hoping to use some uprated 24 spline drive flanges that I already have on stock - they are the standard 90 ones

Yes, have seen those As everything will be coming apart and fully rebuilt, the diff will be out too so I'll probably stick the whole original diff and half-shafts back in to the donor casing as long as no issues arise. In short I only really 'need' the axle casing, discs (may replace), brake calipers, and the hubs from the 'donor' axle.

Thanks for pic Ralph, stand corrected on the part number for the 90 version Agree it would be a waste of time to try really, just more interesting than anything else really. Definitely planning to switch out the whole axle and enjoy the time saving as you suggest. While we are on the subject, can anyone confirm the compatible, disc-braked non-ABS Rover 24 spline axles? I am working on the assumption it is: Range rover classic up to 1986 Discovery 200 tdi On the assumption the younger RRC's are ABS, and so was the 300tdi disco. But a confirmation from someone wiser on their model history would be much appreciated!

Did an image search for the part number RUC500070 which appears to tally Do you have a definitive pic of the backside of a 90 rear wheel hub, James? Unfortunately I am somewhat estranged from my recently torn-apart axles!

Just re read that post and realised it was clear as mud.... what I meant was no holes in it, just the drive flange holes from the front. Obviously on the back as it shows above there is nowt, save the little guy on the edge who I'm sure someone will be able to identify! The hub from an RRC disc brake axle, from the rear, showing the disc brake securing holes:

From what I can see the 90 hubs don't get any additional holes at all for accessory fixment behind, there's just holes for the drive flange bolts to go through. (With the exception of that one threaded hole near the outside of the hub, not sure what that is at all)

Agreed Although of course if you fancy some precision drilling I'm sure it would be possible to convert... I think the moral of the story is that if you happen to be able to get ahold of very cheap hubs from a RRC rear axle to do the conversion with, and are happy with fabricating a little brake caliper mounting, then yes - you can use the original 90 rear axle and complete this conversion. It can be done. However, it is probably easier and more economical all round to secure an old RRC rear axle and renovate as you will.

Hub on a 90 (early, rear drum brake) Hub on a RRC Note the holes on the outer flat of the hub, these bolt through to the disc brake behind I believe - although I would be delighted to stand corrected if anyone knows better!