Matthew L

Sounds like a plan, will tackle this weekend and let you know. Thanks! Matthew

Thanks, Greg. Do other folks agree with this and are there any alternatives? The starter motor is an awfully expensive part and I really don't want to mess it up.

OK, please bear with a mechanical novice. I bought a set of reputedly easy-to-install Warn W650D driving lights to add some much needed additional illumination for my 2005 TD5 in Kenya. Installation is supposed to be easy because there is no need to run a switch into the cockpit as they are controlled by a wireless relay actuated by a little remote control. No wires through the firewall, just connect the power wires to the battery, screw down the relay in a convenient spot, wrap a little wire around a nearby ignition-actuated circuit to provide automatic shut-off and, Bob's your uncle, all done! I can hear you chuckling already. The problem, of course, is that the battery is not in the engine compartment, but in under the seat! The fuses, too, are behind the gear shift and under the seat. So, where should I connect my whiz-bang auxilary lights in the engine compartment for reliable service and the least likelihood of creating problems that I won't know how to fix? Cheers, Matthew

If Orgasmic Farmer is able to find one, then we have a deal, if not, I'll order them. Thanks!

One of plastic-over-a-metal-screw fuse box cover knobs is broken on my 2005 TD5. It still works, but it bugs me, and I'd like to get new ones. I don't want the Croytec bling bling billet ones, I just want plain black knobs, whether original or aftermarket. Anyone know a source? Thanks! Matthew

Yes, as long as it's the seat that takes the compression, not the person, then you should be OK. If the minibus seats, then I imagine that's why they are high back seats in the first place, to keep the upward angle to the shoulder belt. A small downward angle is fine, but any more causes spinal injuries. Here's a reference sheet for racing that recommends 0 to -20 degrees, with -10 degrees optimum but note that this describes seats already reclined by 25 degrees. http://www.sfifoundation.com/SeatbeltGuide06-05-12.pdf

Thanks, Michael. Yes, I do understand about the loss of two seats, but I can't actually see many situations in which I would need those other two seats. I have not made a final decision, though, as on the one hand speeds are generally pretty low here in Kenya because roads are bad, but on the other hand accident rates are pretty high. On the center seat belt, I did find this one -- 3 Point Centre Seat Belt -- but my aviation background says that shoulder belts should NEVER be angled down like that as it would put compression on ths spine in an accident. It also does not seem to detach easily so it would make folding the seat difficult.

Good morning, all. I have been reading up in this forum and elsewhere and, while I purchased by 2005 Defender TD5 wagon in part because of the nine seats (Mom, Dad, 3 kids, 2 in-laws already make 7), I am worried that the side-facing rear seats with lap belts are not especially safe. I was planning to replace the lap belts with retracting ones in any case, but now I am considering other options. The ExMoor lock-and-fold seats look great but at £500 each (and then I have to get them to Kenya) that's just not an option. Are there no less-expensive options, for example, for a single fold-and-stow rear bench like this one for a Toyota FJ40? That particular one does not seem to work as it requires 40" width between the wheel wells and I think the Defenders have only 34" down the middle, but perhaps there is a way to fit it on top of the side frames? On a related note, does anyone know an easy way to replace the center rear non-retractable lap belt with a retractable three-point belt? Perhaps something that can clip in or out of a roof fitting to allow the seat to fold like on many modern SUVs? Cheers, Matthew PS--Doing more research on the Bestop seats for Jeep I found that the there is a model http://www.bestop.co...w=product&id=92 intended for older 1955-1995 CJ and Wrangler jeeps which is much narrower. Width appears to be 35" which migh just work. Installation instructions here. What does everyone think?

Thanks for this. I am away from my TD5 right now, so a couple of questions... 1. Will this switch fit and look right in the top left spot in place of the blank? 2. Since I don't have any extra switch caps, is there a neat way to remove the icon and relabel the switch or a source for the right cap or a blank one? Thanks!

Hmmm, not a tach?

When I got my Defender I was surprised that it had so little instrumentation, not even a tachometer or turbo boost gauge. At the same time I don't want to clutter up the dash. I have seen a VDO tach dropped in the place of a the clock, for example, which is slick. Any thoughts from diesel defender owners which gauges are most useful? Anyone know of a slick solution, like adding dual gauges is place of the three small single ones or perhaps a small digital monitor that can be placed unobtrusively? Presumably all the necessary info is already being fed to the ECU...maybe there's a digital gauge that will plug in to display that? Cheers, Matthew

I am thinking of adding driving lights to my 2005 TD5, but the proper center console switches are ridiculously expensive. Is there any reason I couldn't use a rear fog lamp switch to trip the relay to the driving lights and put it in the blank spot opposite its twin and just mark them appropriately? Cheers, Matthew

Sorry, ignore that last one, I am trying to do too many things at once.

Aha, I found another possible culprit...could it be that I have a sick or dead MAF? http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=61385

And on the remap vs. the plug in box, I don't doubt that you're right, but I am not sure that I will be able to find a shop here in Kenya able to handle that. So far, the best garage I have found is capable but poorly-equipped. The advantage of a plug-in unit is that it's a known quantity and, if truly a simple job, I can do it myself.