Sabre

Yes Toby, tried as much as I wanted, I could not find a direct contact for them. All suppliers' names popped up

Fortunately, that's what I did, bought 2 old Britool torque wrenches

Hi, I need the contact information for the Britool company. A Google search brings up a lot of Britool suppliers & experts, but not the real company Anyone that can assist ? Thanks

You need to align a mark on the camshaft pulley with a pointer on the cam belt rear casing. Note the line on the cam pulley needs to be adjacent, and in line with the pointer. (Check it with a mirror if you still have the radiator and grill in place). The slot in the flywheel should then be positioned above the wading plug hole.

Valuable info, 1&2, thank you. You lesson was not in vain, it will help me not to suffer the same fate 😥 Much appreciated

With the engine on an engine stand, how does one fit the the rear oil seal, flywheel, clutch etc. ? I presume you need to put the engine on a workbench/floor ? Can the sump take the weight of the engine, without buckling ?

Both my, and my son's, 300 TDi Discoveries take the normal 6203 bearings. It sounds like yours might have been modified for some reason

Aaah, that makes sense. I do have new nuts (for the bolts 😊) I will just use the old bolts Thanks Red90

As per the Haynes manual, I decided to replace the big-end bearing bolts. Removing the old bolts needed a few sharp taps with my copper hammer before they came out. But, fitting the new bolts is nearly impossible. The first approx two thirds of the bolt length would go through the bolt hole, and then get progressively more difficult till it refuses to go any further. Even with lots of persuasion from the copper hammer, I could not get one of the bolt heads to reach the bolt landing I put one of the con rods in the oven and took it out when I needed welding gloves to handle it, but the heat made virtually no difference Does anyone know the trick to get the new con rod bolts fitted ? And, how does one know if the splines on the bolts align with the bearing cup splines ?

Impressive, Monkey !

Thanks Western. BTW, that block of yours looks stunning ! I hope you can keep it that clean, but, being a Landy ........... 😊

Thanks guys, good advice. Much appreciated

Exactly the way I fastened my engine block. I am happy to see your engine still on the stand with the crank and pistons in place 😉 I also have the same type of stand; pity one can't assemble the clutch with the engine mounted on the stand

I am looking at a front support. However, I am concerned about turning a fully assembled engine when the support is removed. I greased the pivot point and manages to turn the engine block around fairly easily with the handle that came with the stand

I am busy overhauling my 300TDi engine, and have fastened the block to an engine stand. The 4 fastening points (at the flywheel side of the block) are 10mm threaded bar. All 4 screwed in at least half-an-inch. Would those 4 points be sufficient to carry a fully assembled engine ? With the block hanging from the stand, those 4 x 10mm studs look rather thin to me

When I assembled my 300 TDi today, I noticed in the Rave manual that they indicate 2 sealing washers on every oil jet tube. My engine did not have those when I stripped it. It makes sense to fit these washers to prevent pressurised oil escaping. But my engine did 392k km without these rings Did my engine slipped through the assembly process, or are these sealing washers optional ?

We replaced the Power steering pump, bled the system, and the steering is now 100% Thanks for all the replies

Some (egg-on-face) feed back We wanted to replace the vacuum pump on the system on Saturday. Whilst looking around the engine bay, my son asked : "What does this pipe do ?" It was the vacuum pipe from the vacuum pump going to the booster. The pipe was pulled off, and sat right in front of the booster inlet, about 5mm from it Connected the pipe, and the brakes were 100% 😎 We used the old method, pump brake pedal, hold, open bleed nipple to allow air/brake fluid to escape, close bleed nipple

We used the old method, pump brake pedal, hold, open bleed nipple to allow air/brake fluid to escape, close bleed nipple

Thanks for this, a really good article, even if it reminds me of a Haynes manual where every component can be removed or refitted easily. The components that they work on are never stuck 😡 😄

We will definitely check this out, thanks

Recon

Thanks for all the replies. After reviewing all he replies, and the fact that the vacuum pump leaks like a sieve, my son decided to replace the vacuum pump. We will order a new pump tomorrow

Western, I think we did. The drop arm can only fit in 4 positions. We fitted it in what appears to be the correct position, then turned the wheel from stop- to-stop. At the half-way point the drop arm lined up with the drag link ball joint. Did we do it right ?

We recently replaced the brake fluid in my son's 300 TDi Discovery. He drove the car for a week after that, and the brakes were good. The car was then parked for a week, and when he drove it again braking action was very bad. You really have to step on the pedal to slow down the car. It feels as if there is no power assistance We bled the system, and a lot of air came from both rear wheels. But, no change to the brakes. We bled the system again, and a few bubbles came from the left rear brake. All other wheels bled clear brake fluid. But there is still no change Is there a possibility that the brake booster could have failed while the car was stationary ? Is there a way of testing the booster ? Any tips on bleeding the system ? I have bled many brake systems on many vehicles in my life, including my own 300 TDi Discovery, but have never come across this issue before.