Sabre

Thank you very much for this clip, very informative !

I am getting even more respect for your 200 TDi

I will give it to these engines, they are tough blighters !

Thanks Soren, I am sure I will see the "offending" key in real life soon

Thanks SF I think you might have touched on the reason for my oil pump issue. Maybe the Woodruff key has sheared off, and the pump managed to turn for a while untill it stopped Is there a crankshaft keyway fix ?

What is/was the oil change frequency on the engine, and what oil do you use ?

I am retiring in 10 months time, then the Disco will be my touring vehicle, towing an off-road trailer. I was planning for a total engine overhaul at the end of February, so this incident has just brought the overhaul forward by 3 months. I might as well do it now

Thanks Western The idea was to overhaul the engine later, but the oil pressure warning light came on on Friday, and when I checked, the dipstick showed enough oil, and the pressure sensor wire was connected The engine sounded good, so I proceeded home slowly, and travelled another about 20km before I could feel the engine was loosing power. I then switched off immediately I will now give the engine a thorough overhaul I suspect a faulty oil pump

I am about to overhaul my D1's 300TDi engine after 390 000+ kilometers Any tips/tricks/warnings that I need to follow ? Much obliged

Thanks Boydie, I will try the half-inch drive next time then. (Up to now I have used 3/4 drive) I have a service pit at home, so space below is not a problem. I can rest the crank locking tool on the ground; I have a rather long extension pipe that fits over it I hope you had a good trip

Thanks Eightpot, much appreciated

Maybe this has been discussed before, if so, please direct me to the thread I plan on overhauling the engine of my D1 in a few months. I want to keep the engine as standard as possible, but somehow increase the torque, as the Disco is destined to become a towing vehicle Any ideas/advice on how to achieve that ? Thanks in advance

Many years ago, whilst touring the back roads in Botswana, my Disco started doing the same. It got progressively worse. When I checked the suspension, I discovered that the left hand lower link mounting rubber was torn I replaced the rubber, and the tendency to veer when changing gear was gone

As a matter of recourse, I change the water pump on my 300 TDi every 100 000km (60 000 miles) I also change all coolent pipes and thermostat at the same time.

Maybe hook up the horse box again and see what it does when it works hard, and speed is low

Maybe I should mention that I do have an angle dial, but it has a half-inch drive, and I never trusted that small drive to handle the 90 degrees turn

When the 300TDi's had the early belt failures, the maintenance frequency on the cambelts were reduced to 60 000km (about 35 000 miles). I replace the belt in my Disco every 80 000km (50 000 miles), and every time I remove a brand new belt, so the 100 000 mark is definately do-able in our high dust climate I do have a crank-locking tool which I use for removing the crank bolt Incidentally, how do you torque that bolt the last 90 degrees ? I stick a piece of paper, marked with the appropriate 90 degree marks on it to the crank pulley. But, due to the lack of space, lining up the marks from above is difficult

The replacement of the crank bolt after being torqued 5 times, is news to me, thanks for posting

Thanks Scooby Jim. 700C sounds good

I plan on installing an EGT probe in the same place as yours Any idea what a safe operating temperature will be ? My reason for asking is that I have been told to install it on the manifold right where it attaches to the head for a true reading

At 500k+, I will treat my car to a new pump

Align the camshaft gear to the alignment mark, then loosen the three bolts on the fuel injection pump gear, and turn it so that the belt slips over the pump gear. Assuming you have the flywheel and fuel pump locked in their respective correct positions ?

Thanks Snagger, good to know my Disco is "up-market"

I have drained, and re-filled a few R380 boxes (messy job, that side drain plug) but do not recognise the R380, as I know it, in the picture above

On the subject of UJ's and propshafts, any ideas why the TDi gets a rubber coupling on the rear propshaft, but the V8 has a proper UJ (D1) ? Surely it couldn't have been a cost saving exercise ?