jwhitton

Did you solve this? Interested in what it was!

Update which resolved the issue. Previously the power steering pump had let go, which was replaced. Then afterwards there was a engine speed related noise from the aux belt area. This was assumed to be the tensioner bearing, since I was at a friends at the time, we went to a factors and bought a new bearing for the tensioner. The noise continued... This was then diagnosed to a loose steering pump pulley wheel. Which I then installed new bolts with thread lock. Then the noise from the squeaky aux belt continued, hence the start of this thread. I replaced the aux belt tensioner, that had the new bearing, and suddenly the squeaky belt goes away. I will keep the tensioner and try and see what is wrong with it. Very strange indeed... Thanks for all the help, now resolved. Cheers

Thanks for the suggestion. Let me update this thread once I have investigated further

I found the old steering pump, so let me check it looks the same. The new pump was part number ANR2157. Which appears to be correct. Thank you!

After 3000 miles only my Defender 90 300 Tdi is removing rubber from the auxillary / serpentine belt. This appeared to happen after the power steering pump was replaced, from the original one to an aftermarket one. The tensioner and bearing are all good and are only 10k old also, the belt is a top quality Dayco. The belt squeaks like mad, and it is not having rubber removed and you can also see a thread off the belt on the engine side of the belt. I am guessing something must be misaligned but for the hell of me I cannot find this. Someone suggested spraying brake cleaner on the pulley to try and see which pulley may be misaligned. The water pump was replaced about 10k miles also, and the belt never squeaked / squealed then, so I am ruling out the water pump. I am guessing it is the power steering pump, since the squeak and the belt damage only occurred after this replacement. I find it hard to understand how the power steering pump can be misaligned! Please help, any ideas appreciated. For safety I have a spare Dayco aux belt in the car, since its not looking good.

Thanks David, it now appears the leak has stopped once the fan is installed and back in the vertical position. I will continue to monitor as suggested.

Thanks, yes don't store on the thread side horizontally. I don't think its making much noise, so will run it longer to see how it gets on.

Defender 90 300Tdi While performing some other work, I removed the fan and viscous coupling assembly. I put the assembly on a box with the bolt threads facing downwards. A few days later when I re-attached the fan and coupling, there was what looks like thin silicone grease / vaseline on the box, and appears to have "bled" from the viscous coupling. The thick fluid is clear and has no smell. Just wanting confirmation this is so, and probably assume I need a new viscous coupling?

Just for reference Landrover Defender 300Tdi tensioner bearing is: 6203-2RSH C3 RUBBER SEALED BEARING

Thanks for all the replies. I will go the hot water and elbow grease method first. I don't think the roof will need CIF / Tcut yet, but lets see.

What is the best way to clean a white roof? Mine is not overly dirty / a bad one, but wanted to ask, in case there is a best way to clean it, being made of aluminium. I would have normally just jumped in with some T-Cut or similar, but guess there may be some better advice out there? Thanks in advance, Jon

Landrover Defender 90 300Tdi 1996 There are two yellow relays behind the cover with the fuses. They are both Siemens YWB10027, what does the left and the right one power? TIA, Jon

Hello All, My Defender 300TDi washer jet plastic top has come off. Not sure if it should come off or it has broken off! When I push it back on it does not secure itself and I cannot see how it should fit back on. Has it broken, or am I just being stupid on how it fits? If a new one is required, how is it fitted? Please help! Thanks in advance. Jon

The breather hose (ERR3084) from the rocker cover to my 300Tdi Defender block is now leaking again. As per my previous posting I was hoping to find a suitable silicone replacement pipe, but to no avail. I wanted to canvas opinion on whether others also have this problem and if there is a demand for us to have some silicone ones made up? I guess the tooling costs would prohibit just a few being made and guess the minimum order would be 25 - 50. What is the concensus on getting some made? Jon Please note: I am not a commercial trader, just a Landrover enthusiast who is bored of replacing parts on my Defender with cheap rubbish that is not fit for purpose. This post is solely to canvass opinion on whether there are others out there with the same issue and whether it is worth us getting some fit for purpose 300Tdi breather hoses made up.

Watched a couple of "A 4x4 is Born" on TV+ last night, saw the one where Samco or another firm was making silicone hoses. When I bought my 300Tdi the trocker cover breather to block pipe was fratured (LHS looked from the front, it has a 90 degree bend close to the rocker outlet) and leaked oil. I changed it for a new one to prevent it leaking. Now 6000 miles and less than 18 months later the same has happened to the brand new replacement one. Anyone know where I can get a "proper" silicon hose that has an expected life longer than 6000 miles? Thanks Jon

Hit mine with WD40 and it seemed to do the trick, lets see how long the remedy lasts. Jon

Thanks for the info Ralf, have just moved the rubber matt cover from the LHS of the rad to the bottom half of the rad (4 out of 8 grill openings). As advised I had already sussed out that it is probably better to leave the RHS intercooler having a full air flow. I will also at some point be adding a VDO water temperature guage to the list of goodies needed for the 300Tdi. Thanks, Jon

Fancy changing my LR original water temperature gauge for a nice VDO one. Which VDO sender is required / brass thread on a Defender 300Tdi: http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/INSTRUMENTS-/-GAUGES-VDO-VDO-Senders/c1_2_4/index.html I see the 200Tdi one is a (5/8”-18 UNF) thread, is the 300Tdi the same thread? Want to use with this VDO water temperature: http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p6142/VDO-WATER-TEMPERATURE-GAUGE/product_info.html

How much do you guys normally block off? I have blanked the left hand side (other side to the intercooler) almost to the middle of the rad.

Whats the opinion on blanking off part of the outside of the radiator during this cold UK weather snap? I have just done less than half or so of the rad, by using an old rubber floor mat cable tied to the bull bar. The mat has never had it so good! I have always found no matter what the weather, the hottest UK summer (30DegC) or cold in winter (-15DegC) the original LR temperature gauge always gets to half way and stays there (note already lots of threads on here about how useful or not the LR temperature gauge is!). With the temporary external rad cover the 300Tdi gets up to temperature quicker, which I am sure it better in this sub-zero temperatures? But certainly doesnt make any real difference once up to normal engine water temperature. View, comments and opinions gratefully received. Jon

Whats the consensus on frozen door locks? It was apparently -15DegC when I arrived at work this morning (my 300TDi doesnt have these fangle outside air temperature sensors but unlike Mondeo-man I got to work!) and the door lock / key hole / door button had frozen solid. Options available: 1. De-icer - doesnt seem to work too well 2. Hot water - temporary fix until it then freezes up again even worse 3. Wee Wee! 4. Leave unlocked - not advised Jon

So jealous, this is the best I managed to find in Oxfordshire.

Nice day out! The bird of prey looks like a buzzard. Without any sun there are not enough thermals for them to glide on hence I too have seen many sat in trees during the snowy / icy / foggy days. Jon

There are two yellow Siemens YWB10027L relays next to each other behind the fuse box cover on my Defender 300Tdi. I am told one of these is the headlamps? Which one is it? What is the other one? Thanks, Jon

Are you sure its not the swivel bearings? I had a similar problem with new wheel bearings and discovered it was the swivel bearings. You can check by jacking up the wheel with the issue and rocking 12 to 6 o'clock and then 9 to 3 o'clock. If there is movement when 12 to 6, but not at 9 to 3, then it is likely to be the swivel bearings. Jon