jwhitton

There is an allen screw on my Defender 90 300TDi (1996 / VA engine number model) holding the wiper arm to the wiper shaft. It is loose but I cannot tighten it since it appears to be a strange diameter, I can only guess it is a half mm size or an imperial size? The wipers move too far across the screen and also too low down since they are not tight on the moving shaft. What is the size of this small allen / hexagonal screw please, does anyone know. Where can I purchase one from? Thanks, Jon

Nice one, the EGR is blanked off, I guess that I will have the same result? Jon

Just about to install my cubby box on my Defender 90 300Tdi and discovered under the middle seat is an ECU. I thought the 300Tdi was all Bosch mechanical injection like the 200Tdi? I can only guess that the ECU is to do with the EGR, which is currently blanked off, but I stand to be corrected! What have others done to move the ECU to accomodate when swapping out the middle seat for a cubby box? TIA, Jon

Anyone know where I can get my Landie 90 steam cleaned with a proper steam cleaner, not the usual low powered petrol station ones! My recently purchased 300Tdi seriously needs the chassis and rear A-frame area steam cleaned before I waxoyl it. The engine bay etc is ok, just 12 years of soil build up underneath clinging to the chassis needs to be removed. I am located near Evesham / Stratford Upon Avon / Redditch. Thanks in advance, Jon.

How easy is it to repair a 200TDi vacuum pump using a standard repair kit. Looking at the repaoir kit, looks like it is just a case of remove from the engine, take the lids off and replace the vanes/blades? Anything to watch out for? Thanks, Jon

Front brakes on a friends Defender 90 work but need to be pressed very hard compared to my Defender 90 (also 200TDi). On grass the back brakes lock before the front ones. The front ones work you just need to press very hard and they lack feel. Following has been changed: New master cylinder New brake fluid I have replaced the front brake pads (old ones looked fine) Pistons moved back fine when I replaced the pads, so would assume calipers are fine. No oil or grease on the brake disks which have plenty of meat on them and are being used since no rust on the surfaces. Brake fluid was changed with the master cylinder and has also been rebled, fluid comes out ok, is clean and is not contaminated. I can only guess it is vacuum to the servo or a servo problem? Advice gratefully received. Thanks.

A new actuator wont cost that much if it is broken. Try a new one, after checking the wastegate arm can be moved freely.

Just read smarticus' reply after I posted. What's peoples experience of Procomp, there seem to be lots of ads for them. See there are ES3000 and the slightly more expensive ES9000, is there much between them?

With just a 2inch lift kit do the brake lines need extending? Whats the story on 2inch rear lift and 1 1/2 inch front lift - I have seen these advertised. When do you need the straps, or are these just for use with dislocation cones?

Sharking fishing line weight?

I had my RS Turbo tuned and to set the actuator up you connected an air line to the actuator with a pressure gauge on the line and slowly turned the pressure onto the actuator. Fine tuning could be achieved with the lock screw on the wastegate arm. Depending on the actuator that was used, the wastegate would start to open at a certain pressure and then be fully open at higher pressure. These two pressures were determined by the strength and profile of the spring in the actuator. On a side note what pressure does the 200TDi/300 or TD5 pull on full boost? How does the over boost control work? My Nomad boost gauge went with the RS when it was sold, so can connect it to see: Worth buying one of these: http://www.nomadracing.co.uk/gauges.html

Just swapped them for Hardy Spicer Heavy Duty ones "coresponding to TUC100010" which now have grease nipples. Apparently the "normal" ones are now sealed and don't need greasing! Guess these are for propshafts that are used to go to the shop once per week and the hardest stress they face is a speed bump? So if you want grease nipples and hence want to extend the life of the UJ you need to ask for the heavy duty ones. Without being too cynical, has anyone used the "sealed for life no grease nipple required" ones?

Thanks for the help guys, think I will go back to basics... For anyone with a EPC out there: The LR part number on the Hardy Spicer box shows RTC3458G, is this correct for 1993 200TDi Defender 90 (JAxxx VIN number) for the rear prop? Guess either way it looks like another trip to Worcester on Saturday. Jon

Yes these are Hardy Spicer, said they were GKN since it says this on the back and couldnt remember what the brand name was. These were from MM4x4 in Worcester, how did you tell they were copies? Guess the correct ones should have grease nipples?

How long did it take and how difficult was it to do the re-foam / re-install of your covers for each seat? TIA Jon

Just bought 2 x nice shiny GKN Universal Joints for my rear propshaft, notice they don't have grease nipples. Going to ring the supplier on Monday and check if this is correct! All the ones on the usual online auction site has grease nipples where my current ones are on the prop, strange! Guess they can't be sealed and I have been provided with the wrong UJ??? Help gratefully received. Jon

I just pushed mine in my hand about 5mm-ish. I had sure any rust around the stub axle at the other ends to the axle threads was clean of any rust. From memory guess it is quite hard to get them too wrong since they would either hit the bearing outer or be pushed inwards by the chamfer on the stub axle? Stand to be corrected though. Also make sure you axle breather are is clear and you can blow air through it. Changed my inner and outer oil seals to then find one side was still leaking, cured with a new axle breather (banjo bolt and pipe set).

Assuming you don't rotate the wheels, axle to axle, how to the tyres normally wear? Wear more on the front? Wear more on the back? Wear the same assuming, tracking, suspension, etc, is all well? Thanks.

Reply to an old forum, but still relevant. What is the usual life span of a steering damper? Know they are cheap, but want to know if mine is worth replacing (dont 100k miles)? Jon

Nice one, a recon gearbox has already been purchased from MTS in Stourbridge and is awaiting installation. When I had the rear hubs off last week the half shaft splines looked fine and had little movement on the diff. Hence will see what the gearbox swap does for the noise and if it still remains will take my attention to the A-frame ball joint.

1993 Defender 90 200TDi 103k miles (just run in!) On declutching in the lower gears there is an initial "clunk" noise as the transmission slack is taken up. It certainly sounds like it comes from the back of the vehicle and not under the seats where the gear/transfer boxes are. There are no leaks from the diff and the rear propshaft does not appear to have any external major defects! The front prop-shaft and UJ's are new (previous owner) to reduce some of this nosie I think. What should I look for / move about with a pry bar to find out what this noise is or where it is coming from? My first guess would be to check the rear prop UJs are ok and all the bushes on the back? Help required yet again please? Which ones are likely to go/prone to go to explain this noise? Any technique to finding out what it is? Must say, being a general petrol head and been regular contributor to the RSOC and Scoobynet (yes my other car is a Subaru!) that this BBS site is one of the technically most useful and responsive without the usual "noise". Thanks guys. Jon

Looks like my welding mate is now going to do it and I was going to make the pieces that need to be welded on. What grade of steel and thickness should we use on the cross member? Thanks.

Having owned a number of tuned RS Turbo's previously I understand the world of modified turbo's becomes a rather complex. With all sorts of terminal velocity and trim calculations coming into play. Amazingly my 200TDi Defender is the first of Dr Diesels inventions I have owned. Anyway I digress, what is the fuel pump tweak I see refered to in various threads that can be performed without a turbo change/mod? Guess it is fuel pressure? What does it do to the bhp and torque output? How is it performed? TIA, Jon

Thanks, just refitted the hub. Will keep an eye open for any leaks. Jon

Before I put my new rear hub inner and outer oils seals in to my 1993 200TDi, wanted to know which way round the seals go. The original 1993 seals I removed did not have the wire rings. The new ones supplied, FRC8221 and FRC8222, have wire rings on the seal. I looks like the new seals should be fitted with both wire rings on the inside of the hubs facing each other. Question is, is this correct way round to install the seals please? Jon