[Exhaust low down]

Could be (it'd help if you said what the oil was), then again could be lots of things. May be worth running some Forte engine flush through it at the next oil change. It's very difficult to diagnose strange noises over the internet.

Its OMD 90 I'm running. Its an ex-military lump, and as I work with Royal Engineers/REME I'm aware that this is what many military engines are run on providing this is what they always have been used to.

Might give the engine flush a go to ensure the oil is getting in all the right places!

Been listening carefully to the noise (which i might add is slightly reduced today), and as hard as it is to diagnose a noise, its pretty hard to explain too!

Thanks agin!

Paul

[Exhaust low down]

Did do that fridge freezer and at first I didn't!

Topped up a while ago though and still not sorted!

Don't suppose it could be the oil i am running? I have run it for well over a year with no problems and regular changes/ checks.

Just been for a spin at 10 deg BTDC and doesn't really make any noticeable difference so will stay at that for now.

Kinda out of ideas for now. If any good ideas to try pop in your heads I'd appreciate the info.

Many thanks!

Paul

[Exhaust low down]

Hi again.

Just wanted to ask about the valve bounce idea as a fitter at work reckons this is very unlikely unless I'm over revving?

I explained that i have advanced my ignition for my gas set up and he thinks it is probably detonation and that i should retard my ignition slightly to prevent this.

I am only getting the suspect noise when under load and at med to high revs that is why i thought it probably wasn't pinking.

To see if he is correct I am going to try to retard a degree or so to see if it makes any difference. I'm currently running at around 12 deg BTDC and will try 10 and see what happens.

Will report back soon with the find!

Thanks again!

Paul

[Exhaust low down]

Thanks for the replies everyone.

Been playing around again today and think i have finally sealed the downpipe blow.

You need back pressure in order to prevent valve bounce at higher revs - usually having one silencer is enough.

This has hit the problem then. I had been worried what the rattle/tapping/tick was and it only happens really at higher revs and gets louder the higher they go. Is this something i should worry about?

Have fabricated the zorst from the Mid box back. Only has the mid box but its quite big. I'm presuming I don't have quite enough back pressure with this set up.

I read your post HBFH and it was very interesting - and Ashford is not too far away from me!

Wish i could afford to treat myself with a beaut like that!

Mine is 2 1/2" and flows smoothly but i could just see through the mid box when looking what was inside- hence possible lack of back pressure!

Back to the drawing board for now if I'm going to cause damage!

Thanks again!

Paul

[Exhaust low down]

OK.

Sorry, didn't really ask a very clear question before! (Pretty hung over this morning!)

What i need to know is-

Should i need to adjust mixture now i have a larger bore exhaust? (Still got original cast manifolds and y pipe.)

Does not running a rear silencer loose horses/torque?

Why do you want some back pressure?

I'm sure there was loads more i wanted to know.

Been reading up a bit more about it but still not sure!

Any helpful advice/tips would be greatly appreciated!

Paul

[Exhaust low down]

Hi there!

I'm after some helpful advice regarding exhausts.

I had a nightmare last friday trying to fix a leaky manifold/down pipe joint and whilst i was attempting the fix, i noticed how bad the rest of my exhaust was.

Rather than spend £500 plus on a nice sporty stainless job, i thought i'd make a stainless sporty exhaust (from another project) fit.

I'm running a 3.5 V8 on carbs (and gas), and in the future my plan was to fit a big Diesel conversion in place.

The stainless pipe i had laying about was from a 110 and that was also where the exhaust originated from. As the exhaust would have eventually gone on anyway, i thought i'd see what it sounded like on the V8. The result was a testosterone boiling burble with a real mean roar when revved!!!

Nice!

Anyway, i have had my worries about possible problems this may cause.

Can this cause any possible damage i.e. pinking due to the extra amount of air passing through the system or

do i need to change my ignition timing etc to accommodate for the change?

Exhausts seem to be a science all on their own and it would be great i someone could give the basics about them, like why you need back pressure etc.

I have had a look through the search but cant really find much about how it all works.

Many thanks in advance.

Cheers, Paul

[td5 to 300tdi]

At last, someone as mad as me!

Loads of people will say your mad doing it but if (like most landie owners), you like making hard work for yourself, then do it!

I would!

[Gearbox damage?]

Thanks again peeps for the input, made it and fitted new H/D U.J.'s.

Would advise anyone doing this to add the bolts back for the handbrake drum as mine decided to part the vehicle at 50 odd mph with someone right up my ar*e.

The screws don't like staying in!!!

Anyways, I Started to worry on the way home though as i did notice the difference in the slack.

I have a clunk on pulling away anyway and started thinking my mainshaft was worn!

Had a peek inside transfer cover and couldn't see much play at all between gears. couldn't really see very well though as you have to squeeze in behind the exhaust.

Tiny amount of play as i turned the handbrake but noticed it turned a bit before tension moved any gears?

Is that the handbrakes shaft?

Got a workshop manual but i can only see it separated from the main box and cant see what the handbrakes shafts splines meet. (If you know what i mean?).

Think the play is perhaps this plus slack in diff and drive etc and is it possible my very heavy clutch increases the knock on all of this due to the on/ off feel of it?

Any ideas?

Thanks again,

Paul

[Gearbox damage?]

Excellent! Thanks for the fast reply, I can sleep easy now without the thought of standing at the side of the motorway in the p1s*ing rain!

New UJ's for me tomorrow then!

Cheers,

Paul

[Gearbox damage?]

Hey there,

After some much needed reassurance.

While driving home this eve i felt nasty vibrations coming through my transmission which gave me horrific memories of when a prop snapped on me years ago.

I nursed her home and on inspection, i found my rear UJ to be shot.

Did have a spare but it was in another prop for a 110 (Mine's a 90) and after spending 2 hours getting the rusty cups out (In the dark and the rain!), I thought i'd probably be better off replacing them with new.

As i work 40 miles away and live miles out in the sticks I need to know if i can drive in diff lock without causing any wind up???

I know i my rear prop was attached this would not be a good idea but as its not, can i drive gently to work to get new UJ's?

Many thanks in advance!

Paul

[V8 in a 90?]

Hi matt,

I fitted a 3.5 V8 with lt85 into my 90 that originally had a 2.5 in it with an lt77.

The gearbox will fit straight up if you use some intuition, i had to use one of the mounts off the old box (Mounting bracket bit attached to gearbox rather than chassis) and once i bolted this on to replace the original V8 box mount, it fitted sweet as a nut.

I left the engine fitted to the gearbox and in a oner, shoehorned it all into place with some help from some burly mates and jacks etc!

The engine mounts had been ground and pried off, leaving a huge space for the engine to be held in place.

Then you can fab some new mounts by fitting the rad and cowling and moving the engine about until the fan is in line with the hole in the cowl.

This will show you the angle and space you need for your new mounts. I (with a little help from my blacksmith mate ) just used a bit of scrap 4" square tube to cut the mounts from.

You can start with a tight fit and ease them in grinding a little off each to ensure a central fit.

Then simply bolt onto engine rubbers and lower until weight is on the mounts.

You can now tack them onto the chassis with a spot weld or two.

Lift the engine again slightly so the rubbers come away (you should get just enough clearance) and weld away.

You can do the above by removing the engine from the box when welding etc but luckily my mate is pretty flexible with a MIG!

My only problem is i'm going to end up deaf as i cant help ramming my foot down every time i get the chance!

Also, as mad as it sounds, i now got a mean old diesel lump to fit as LPG has got too pricey for me now but i'm sure you'll love it once she's in!

Well worth the sweat!

Good luck

P.S,

PM me if you get confused with mounts etc as i might have some spare bits left, or i can always go and see what i did!

Paul

[90 v8 wiring loom help]

That sounds like you really need to change it!

You should be able to get a loom for a pretty good price. There's not that much really to the front of the loom.

Good luck with the swap anyway, sounds like it'l make a nice improvement to another landy!

[24V or not?]

thats brilliant!

Thanks again luke- you have been a great help!

Much appreciated! :i-m_so_happy:

Will let you know how i get on.

Cheers,

Paul

[90 v8 wiring loom help]

Are the looms not pretty much exactly the same?

I fitted a v8 into my old 2.5 (Petrol though!), and the waterproof plug just pressed together with the original one!

I know that you have glow plugs instead of ignition feeds so that is surely all that is different!???

Mind you I'd best look at the manual to check, I'd be pretty embarrassed if i was completely wrong and you burnt out your project!

[24V or not?]

Thanks luke!

I have a push button starter all ready and waiting.

Thats exactly what i thought, the alternator wire to the second battery as its sending 24V back along with the starter button/starter motor.

From the first battery i'd connect up my permanent live to the lights and all the other connections that i could disconnect from the loom running out of the alternator.

Oh, and I'l check my workshop manual to see what else is wired into the starter solenoid so that isn't blown to bits when i press the starter button for the first time!

Great, thanks for all the help, best get engine stripping asap as i cant wait to fit it now!

Cheers again!

[24V or not?]

Thanks for the replies!

Spoke to a mate today and he said pretty much exactly the same thing.

If i took the 12V live from the battery connected to earth, (1st battery), the second live would give off the required 24V

It would be charged back up in reverse filling all 24V back up in two halves.

Think this makes sense now!

Got any good idea how to wire in the loom that comes out of the alternator?

I'd still like to run everything as it is (Some on ignition and others not), rather than just run everything from a permanent live?

Would splicing into the loom at the alternator run in this way?

Cheers again!

Paul

[24V or not?]

thats exactly the sort of thing i was looking for!!!

Thanks luke!

The idea of using the first battery, - Would the alternator not be pumping 24V back into it? That would be the best bet if this would work as the droppers as you rightly say are a bit of a bodge!

Been speaking to my electronics mate this eve and he also highlighted the possible problem of water getting into a dropper and causing failure!

He says if i can be bothered with the hassle, change all the electrical items you can and whatever is left i.e. stereo, can be discreetly dropped in a waterproof place??

Not sure still! :blink:

He started talking about different resistors and perhaps he could make a PCB etc etc :blink: :rolleyes:

Lost me, i started thinking about wading when he mentioned deep water! :lol:

Anyway, Thought of another mate at work i could ask but if anyone has ever done this sort of thing, or you understand this electrical madness, I'd really appreciate the advice!

Many thanks again for the help!

Cheers,

Paul

[24V or not?]

Thanks for the input istruggle.

Yeah, i have looked up as much as possible to do with the engine and in doing so i have read loads about their six pots too.

Totally agree about every thing you have said as that seems to be the general view from most.

However, the engine i am hoping to fit is not the SD30 (The six pot), it is usually this engine that many have used in the conversions.

Mine is the FD35t. Out of a forklift????? Or a cabstar?

I have had a drive of the 110 and it seemed really good, not quite the same pick up in speed like my V8 but not too far off! Also, it pulls uphill with a load of grunt, totally over loaded with the axles on the bump stops!

I know what you say about it weighing in a good match for the titanic but its a 4 pot and ALOT smaller that the SD series although its still a hefty old lump of cast!

And with all this the economy was still pretty good!

I know its not a patch on a megajolted, megasquirted V8 or for those other diesel lovers out their the 2/300 or TD5- the thing is, its free!

I can make my own bio and run a real powerful engine for real cheap, and its waterproof without too much hassle!

Now, do you have a tear in your eye or are you still thinking 'you mad IDIOT'!!! :lol:

Anyway, i know a lot of people are against this 'NON standard' type of conversion (and i totally understand as i have felt the same), but my good friend used to drive the 110 every day for a mate and he always sang its praises.

So i do feel happy to go for it but i'm still really stuck with electricals!!!!!!

If anyone knows how to 'drop' the current from 24v to 12v, PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!! :blink:

thanks again and sorry to go on!

Cheers, Paul

[24V or not?]

Mine is currently a convert 3.5 V8 on carbs that i have gassed up. Dont get me wrong, i absolutely love the drive- however the 3.5 turbo diesel has the same BHP but over half again the torque! Also as much as I'm pleased with my gas set up, I do about 320 miles per week, this means filling up twice ish a week- gets a bit frustrating standing at a gas pump in the rain for 10 mins every time i fill up. Oh, and at 60p a litre were i live as opposed to 60p at the most with home brew bio and get twice the mpg (And loose the gas tank out of my much valued load space!) I have made my mind up to at least try this beast engine out!

I have probably left out the info on my current set up on my first explanation, ( due to the replies! ) so just to confirm, i have 12V on my 3.5V8 but want a 24V starter for the next engine ( I want to fit! ) and I dont know how to drop the power after the starter/ alt for the rest of the electricals to work without changing them also.

OR, is it beneficial to have 24V and if so, why???

Thanks for the input so far (Even if i have not explained myself before! )

Cheers,

Paul

[24V or not?]

Yeah, its running 12V at the mo, but was not sure about fitting a dropper.

I would like to keep every thing as standard but i just think the engine might need the 24V to start as well as it does (Looking for reliability!)!

If I went down the dropper route, how would this work?

Run a separate lead from the battery and en route to wiring harness plug fit a "dropper"?

Thanks in advance again- the puzzle unravels!

[24V or not?]

Ok, really need to pick the brains of the wise ones!

Been given an old 110 from my mate.

If i went and collected it from his mums, i could have it as its had it?!

For years he and another mate have used the 110 for forestry work/logging/lugging etc and they have always said what a beast it was.

Keen to check out what i could possibly do to run the engine as it is 24V without messing around too much, i have asked many spark's, mechanics and even my very wise old engineer mate is stumped!

Basically, the engine is a turbo diesel nissan lump that is not the most regular model and with the cost of a new starter, alt etc i would like to save some pennies by leaving it as is.

I've been told if I'm going to run 24v then i should just do the lot (I can probably get all the bits through my job), however, how much of a pig of a job is this?

The engine does not use glow plugs and it relies on its high compression to start (Me thinks! ), so do i need the 24V through the starter to get it running?

What gains can you get from running 24V?

Can i run some sort of reducer (fitted after alternator) to all other electrical ancillaries?

Your comments would be much appreciated!

Cheers,

Paul

[what size tyre and what sort]

Sorry - Thought i was on the defender page! Mines a 90

[what size tyre and what sort]

Do 235/85's fit without a lift then or should i wait till i lift it by an 1"?

[Land Rover 90 Steering Box Leaking :(]

Hi scoobydooz,

Same box as mine and when i got a leak i bought a seal repair kit- this cost 35-40quid inc postage.

There is about 30 seals inside the kit!!!!! :( :( :o :o

After i got the kit, i read up on any tips to fit seals in the archive section.

Got a tip about putting half a cup of brake fluid into the power steering fluid!!! :huh:

I thought "sod that, it'll bugger me bits up", however, the seals kept looking at me telling me to try the brake fluid!!

So i did!

IT makes the seals swell and my leak stopped within a week.

Still got the kit though just in case!

Reading your message again i see you lost aLOT of fluid real fast- not sure brake fluid will help here, you may need a kit or a new box!

Good luck with it, let me know if you change the seals as i'd like to do it in the future!

[salisbury rear axle onto a 90?????]

Cheers for clearing that up Callum, Thought I'd misunderstood that bit!

You're right, it wont hurt to try the front prop- and i will post it if it does fit!

Thanks for the vote of confidence with the engine, I have been a bit worried about admitting it on here as i know alot of people are VERY loyal to the landrover as a whole.

I know its almost criminal to fit a different block but as its free and full of waterproof grunt, that runs on next to nothing bio, I have to try it!

thanks again,

Paul