[salisbury rear axle onto a 90?????]

surely there is no need to swap the diff and half shafts if i swap both axles complete with spring points?

Or do i need to do this to go ahead with the disc conversion??

Cheers for the advice though!

Think i might need the uprated axle if i fit the nissan lump with the 32" tires!

Will prob need to nick the front springs too if i do go for the engine due to its weight!

Christ, this is going to be a bit more involved than anticipated!

:rolleyes: :rolleyes:

[salisbury rear axle onto a 90?????]

nice, cheers jim!

might have to fit the bad boy on!

got to be better at putting up with the jip i give my 90 sometimes!

Will have to check archive again for how to convert drums to disc before i fit her on me thinks! :D :D

[salisbury rear axle onto a 90?????]

Hey guys and happy new year!

Collected a well and truly worn out 110 that my mate gave me just before xmas.

After looking at what was worth keeping (after its harsh life as an over worked forestry horse), not a lot would be worth salvaging except the 3.5 nissan turbo diesel engine, rear salisbury, wheels and tires, roof rack and a few other small bits.

As my rear axle has had enough punishment from my v8 I did want to put the salisbury onto my 90.

Can this fit??

Would i need another prop?

Also, I know its not usually a popular choice amongst the landrover massive but does anyone have any ideas on the nissan 3.5 fd35t???

My mate reckons its got more guts than my V8????

Must admit that i'm tempted to stick it in and run it on bio, as LPG is now 59p a litre where i live!!!! :o :o

Thanks in advance!

Paul

[Heater fan stopped working]

Oh Great LR4X4 Gurus, for Lo in this season of good cheer you have saved my festive bacon again My 200 tdi 110 hard top rust bucket heater fan blew a fuse. I swapped the fuse and it blew again. I checked the fan for crud and discovered no crud but a sticky and slow bearing. In accord with advice from this very forum, I sprayed some lube down and tried again. To my enormous disappointment the fan turned but only very slowly... Bum thinks I. That means I've to take the whole heater unit out this weekend and fix it. Then I got in Landy and drove up bumpy track. Lo! For the Landy works in mysterious ways and the bumps freed the motor, the lube fixed the fan and the heater works. Hurrah. Another victory for the glories of Land Rover engineering as practiced in the world of make do and mend!

Mine fixes its self too!!!

My interior light didn't work for over a year until i went down a bumpy track and hey presto!

Good result for christmas eh!

[Replacing the seals in a power steering box]

I'd have to agree with jim.

I bought a kit for the six bolt and thought i'd research how hard it was before doing it, and too many people said in previous posts what a pain it was.

The general thought was to put half a cup of brake fluid in as it makes the seals swell.

Mine was real bad- like getting through nearly 1 litre per 3 weeks!

As mine was pretty bad i was going to change the seals but thought i might as well try it.

Within two days the leak had stopped!

Sorted!

Waste of money buying the seal kit!

It must have been a landrover owner who found this out!

I just cant see any other car owner putting brake fluid in the power steering! :lol:

[Brakes again]

I'm collecting the parts to convert my rear axle to disc's brakes.

you'll need a pair of each of these ------

110 front hubs

rear calipers

brake discs

disc back plates [ if you want them, but not neccessary]

caliper brackets ---- maybe difficult to find, mine came from

W E Philips Engineering,

Preens Eddy

Coalport

Telford

TF8 7JG

Telford 882199 --- don't know if their still in business, got my brackets from them in March '99

check the Tech Archive as Diesel_Jim did awrite up recently.

Cheers, Il check that post out!

Gotta get sorted by end of feb- its my MOT!

Thanks again!

[Leaky main gear box]

You really need to investigate as wind driven oil could travel from the top of your engine across the top of the bell housing and run down the gear box!

could be any where!!!

[Brakes again]

Hey western,

I've got a coffee stain just like that one on my manual!

Very helpful diagram, was tempted to fit different axles on mine with discs- I know how they work!

Sorry to hijack thread but does anyone recommend this?

The old drums are a bit of a pain in the backside!

[Getting all hot and bothered!]

Is from a Ex RAF 110 as far as i know and is 1993.

The reason its run on carbs is because any electronic devices, i.e. An EFI unit, would cause massive radio interference or the radio would interfere with the EFI.

Hence the weird dizzy and leads i had on it when i got it!

I recently changed my dizzy, coil, leads etc because of running my gas kit that i fitted was becoming a pain in the arse due to crappy ignition.

When i changed the dizzy i re-set the ignition timing to 8 deg b.t.d.c for the gas. It was 6 as the book says it should be.

Just for the record, it was getting hot before any of this!

Thanks for the ideas anyway, I did think the gauge could be suspect but due to the temp shown without a stat and the actual temp in the top hose, its got to be a circulation problem.

Cheers Ian for your thoughts,

Paul :) :)

[Getting all hot and bothered!]

well, looks like a trip to the local scrapper for a lambda then!

thanks again for the posts, that has been really helpful! :D

Paul

[Getting all hot and bothered!]

Why pay to get exhaust gas analysed? £5 gets you a lambda sensor, £3.99 gets you a multimeter - voila! Welcome to the 20th century

forgive my thickness but is it as simple as fitting lambada to exhaust, and the multi meter will automatically adjust the power valve?

[Getting all hot and bothered!]

Yeah, I agree with the rad situation.

I'l stick it on my Christmas list!

What are the thoughts on Ali rads?

Do they actually last any longer and for the extra cash, what benefits do you get????

Went for a spin earlier without any thermostat and it was fine, although a bit cold!

had a worrying white exhaust smoke when first started but once she finally warmed up it looked fine, think she is running a bit rich at the mo on gas though cause i cant be arsed with paying to get exhaust gas analyzed!

Many thanks yet again, not only for the great advice but also the friendly support!

Paul

[Getting all hot and bothered!]

sorry, i mean the gauges are the same part no.!

Yes, it cant be in the heater side of the plumbing as my vaporizer would freeze and it doesn't.

Got the spare rad cap out of my old rad so going to stick that in once i've easy outed the bloody old one!

Must be a circulation problem so going to try the rad once i have some cash.

Had a look on the Famous Four web site and found a nice one with an oil cooler built in! Anyone tried one?

When i put water through the rad it took a while to work its way through- might have loads of rot etc inside the core.

Thanks again!

Paul

[Getting all hot and bothered!]

Yeah, Im going to have to check the top hose as in the top manifold pipe once filled up as i have not done this yet!!! with new rad cap!@!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG

GGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

Oh sorry, had to let go!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Getting all hot and bothered!]

Changed water pump in the freezing cold this eve decided to leave the thermostat out for a while until i have some cash to get some bits if i need them!

I just cant face the thought of draining coolant yet again just yet! On the last thing to tighten, (the rad top plastic crappy bolt thing)I sheared the bloody thing off pinching it up! :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry:

Couldn't believe it- had to come in and have some red wine to laugh about what a nightmare i'm having!!!

Thanks for your replies- this seems like the place to get some help in those evil lonely moments when my missus has had enough of my moaning!

The Rad is second hand but I am now reluctant on how good it is. I have had it off and blasted a hose through it but thinking about it, water didnt exactly gush through, it found its way through.

I was promised that its been tested, and to start with seemed to work fine but hearing how well a new one can work, my pennies are being saved already!

The temp sender is a new one and the dial is exactly the same part no. The guys in a local dealers told me not to worry about it and showed me the part no.

going to give both the string and the top hose a go as they're the only things i have not yet done so good ideas!

Thanks for the replies again, Will keep you posted,

Cheers,

Paul

[Getting all hot and bothered!]

[Getting all hot and bothered!]

Hey, Got an old viscous unit for fan and it seems Ok although it does spin easily when hot but it always has done!

Yeah, needle goes right up to the red every so often but I dont let it get any further! (I have to pull over for a bit for it to cool down!)

I did think it was related to the needle as the pipes don't feel hot, until you really encourage the flow by squeezing pipes and then you can feel much hotter coolant start to creep up.

Just finished messing around with getting the water pump off completely and on inspection in daylight i can see where coolant has been around the little hole underneath pulley.

This shows my seals are probably gone but the rest seems Ok so it should have still pumped right?

Will replace this but not sure its going to help! AAARRRGGGGHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!! :angry:

I also need to replace the pulley as i cracked a lump off of mine trying to get the rusty lump off the pump!!!!!! :angry:

I have started to think i might just drill the centre out of the thermostat and see what it runs like!

Anyway, thanks for letting me rant- heres what set up i have.....

3.5 with SU's and a Bigas single point LPG kit on top of the transmission tunnel, On the bot of the expansion tank i have a down pipe that tee's into the bottom rad to pump pipe.

[Getting all hot and bothered!]

Well, I took the water pump off now and thats fine too!

Fitted the correct expansion cap, and the gauge is the same part no. so all i could think it is, is an airlock!

Is it possible that air can pocket in the block?

The reason i ask is because it seems like the coolant will not flow.

The pipe up to the heater is warm and the top pipe to the rad is only just warm but if i squeeze the pipes to encourage flow i can feel HOT coolant start to move around a bit- hence my thoughts it was the thermostat or pump!

This is really confusing me now!

HELP!!!!! :( :(

Thanks in advance,

Paul

[Getting all hot and bothered!]

Thankyou landmannnn.

This may be the possible cause to my gradual overheating problem then!

Well i wont speak too soon as i cant find an expansion bottle for the Carbed 3.5 V8 anywhere!

I'l keep a lookout on eblag unless anyone has got a spare for sale!

Thanks again, il keep looking!

[Getting all hot and bothered!]

Ok, could someone help with what temp I should be running at?

Was looking at race tech gauges earlier and nearly got one but saw the price! suppose its not bad if it saves my engine.

Is there any other way to see if the block is getting hot while i save my pennies till next month when i can afford a sender and gauge?

have been advised that i replace the cap on my header tank too?

What effect can this have on my heating up/ cooling down? :(

[Getting all hot and bothered!]

hey,

yeah it does have a small bypass and i situated this to the top as it stated on it.

would the gauge not have worked from the start or could this have built up?

I Know I shouldn't run without a stat but I was trying to work out if it would run at a lower temp and it did?

I'l have a look for racetech gauges, thats quite a popular name on here!

Also I might have to check the water pump tomorrow and see if it is spinning as it should.

[Getting all hot and bothered!]

OK guys, I know this has probably been covered to death but i cant find anything with the same problem as mine.

I have been having troubles with my temp gauge telling me that im getting hot on my 3.5 V8.

I fitted the V8 in place of the 2.5 petrol in the summer and changed rad to suit. I kept the 2.5 header as the bottom pipe for the V8 was split and as its slightly different (Got a down ward joint on the 2.5 pipe from header to bot pipe as opposed to the V8 is straight across from rad to pump housing) to the 2.5 fittings i re-used these.

It has been great and over the summer it ran really well in the middle of the white.

Then, a few months later it has started to overheat. Well the gauge says it is.

As the top pipe was not really getting hot, I replaced the thermostat, it had an 82' and the guy in the shop told me about an 88 being better so i went with this.

If anything it was now worse, getting right near the red!

Changed it again for an 82 as tested them as they didnt open too well at temp stated.

Whilst i waited for the new 82 to arrive i drove without a stat to flush the system out- also flushed every thing through with a hose.

This showed a cool temp as thought.

Fitted new stat and after a run around it ran really well until the last week or so it has started to get hot again!

Took stat out again and flushed system out as it seems like a restriction in the flow and on checking the stat, it is fine??

Rad runs clear and freely???

Could my water pump be duff without dumping any coolant??

Checked oil for water, water for oil or exhaust smell, no excess pressure at all in hoses, no kinks, checked exhaust manifolds are tight and no loss of coolant.

I'm not sure about airlocks as i filled up as mentioned in other posts but unsure of my set up slowly trapping air????

Any help would be greatfully received.

Thanks in advance,

Paul

[2.8 international TGV]

Is the standard Td5 surly not the best bet. messing around with bellhousing conversions would start to tax me- I felt the stress when i took the 2.5 lump out to replace it and had a huge hole in the front of my truck to which i had to fit a LT85 and V8! :(

All ran well once done but that got me sweating!

Think the Td5 is a nice safe bet!

Re-map to 200 Bhp ish with huge intercooler, sorted!

Oh then B100 all the way as its now £1.08 a litre where i live!!!

[2.8 international TGV]

Well, thats helped me think more sensibly about it.

Think i had a mad moment thinking about the 2.8- Sounds like a beast though!!

Think I'l save my 2P's up for a Td5 and go about a remap etc. I suppose its all done for me then and its simple, cheap and easy to replace etc.

Anyway, thanks guys for the wise words!

Paul

[2.8 international TGV]

Hi there,

New to this site but seen how helpful you all are so thought i'd give you a blast!

Anyways, i have read up on some of the previous posts regarding this but not really found what i need to know, so here goes....

Im currently running a 1989 3.5 V8 90, and as much as i love it, i am a little frustrated with the loss of load space due to my gas tank and the carp range you get from a tank of LPG!

Also any sign of major water and it doesnt like it!

I want to run a diesel so i can make my own B100 to run it on but i do still want a good bit of power.

One choice is to put money i would get from selling the 90 towards a td5 90 and modify as i want,

OR, I do like the look of the 2.8 TGV (as its very basic), and buy an dead 300tdi 90 to convert.

The main down sides to the td5 is the electrics and i would have to buy myself a diagnostics kit and learn all about that side of things.

am i right in thinking it might be hard to get bits for the 2.8??

All your views are much appreciated in advance.

Cheers, Paul