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Everything posted by dirtbox

  1. Tom, the last snow we had was 1 week ago Everyone round here wants it to just go away but i've got the "Snow bug" now and love it! MORE SNOW PLEASE!!!!!!
  2. Twas a fun day in the snow! After an hour of digging anyway!
  3. Thanks again Western. Went for a longer drive today and i ended up with no free play whatsoever so looks like it needs adjusting back a bit now anyhow! Cheers and merry Christmas! Paul
  4. Thanks Western. I had set the clutch up using this diagram but I did wonder what the maximum adjustment would be? My clutch doesn't slip, in fact it feels spot on. But, as I can feel the master cylinder start to bottom out at the end of the pedal stroke, does anyone think i might damage it? My OP probably didn't explain this too well!
  5. Seasons greetings all! After having only an inch or so of clutch left (the rest of travel was free play) i decided i should sort it. I bought a new master and slave cylinder but before fitting i thought id see what adjustment i could get. I have taken the end washer off and just got a thread or so holding the outer nut on and so its maxxed out! This is now working great although i can feel the master cylinder is bottoming out at the end of the pedal stroke. So, is this going to cause me problems?? i.e. should i expect the clutch to fail if it only is working at this adjustment?? I should add that i replaced the slave cylinder only 16 months ago with genuine so would hope its not that! Also, the fluid was looking pretty murky. I did Bleed too and at first this made things worse as my wife lifted her foot up while i had the nut undone! I know this is really a process of elimination but i really need the 90 at the mo what with the weather and our living 5 miles from anything! Any tips or advice would be greatly received! Many thanks in advance Paul
  6. This is starting to get really confusing!! Glad I checked out my doc's for the 90 and its way under!
  7. Yeah you should be fine then as another way of looking at it; The mount bolted directly to the chassis on my 2.5 petrol stayed on. The replacement gearbox (LT85) side of things was just a flat plate with the rubber directly bolted to it. So if you have bits bolted to both boxes and your original chassis mounts still in place you should be fine!
  8. Well, when I removed my 2.5 petrol and LT77 and fitted a 3.5 V8 with a santana (LT85), I just used the same mounts that were original. I did however have to use the mount attached to the LT77 so that both fixing points on the LT85 used the plate that directly has the rubber underneath rather than the plate that offsets the mount. If that makes any sense?? Can take some piccys tomorrow if you like.
  9. yeah Medway Galvanizing are good but have a min fee of £60. Got my roll bar done and they dont do any cash jobs etc any more. A mate told me after i had got it done there is a small place down towards Romney marsh that does small stuff for a good price still. I'l see him friday and see if he has any details.
  10. Got to say that I'd take my 90 out any day in this weather. Just getting out of our shared drive (Thats now polished up like glass!) my 90 on ATs in low with diffs locked i dont really slide about all that much while all the neighbours cars slide about everywhere and take a good 20 mins to get out! If you want the reliability to get somewhere take the defender, if your planning on driving like an idiot, dont bother!
  11. Done too and happy to help!
  12. Well I'm thinking the best thing to do is try and remove the suspect resistor and as advised get my mate at work to point me in the right direction. Thanks all for the help anyways! Cheers, Paul
  13. Thanks for the replies. Could I potentially be causing a problem by skipping the resistor with a piece of cable? Keep wanting to try it but my fear of electrics is stopping me!
  14. Thanks western. Yes that is the resistor I mentioned in the first post. So would that have possibly blown? Being from a 12V system and having 24V put through it? I don't know if I need to get a 24V one or not. Thanks again. Paul
  15. Its a Nissan FD35t. You probably won't find much info on it though! I wired it in using my existing 2.5 petrol loom and just connected everything to its equivalent on the engine. By just changing everything on the vehicle to a 24V version, i.e. bulbs, relays, motors etc. Yes, 24V alternator fed with a 24V supply through the existing charge warning light circuit that has a 24v/1.2W bulb in place. Could the bulb wattage make any difference? Thanks for the replies so far!
  16. Probably not made any sense as usual with the question! Any ideas?
  17. Is that inside the alternator itself? I have tried a direct current to the alt and it seemed to charge Ok? I have looked at the workshop manual and there looks like a circuit that runs with the light, and I just guessed that if it failed it took the route via the light switching it on. If its inside the alternator I'l have to get my mate to look as Its a hitachi and I don't have any manual for it so not sure what I'm looking for. Thanks again!
  18. Hi all. Searched till exhausted list and I couldn't find anything so here goes. Since my 12 to 24V swap I have had a problem with my charge warning light. I'm thinking I have blown the resistor that works along side the warning light as my light only dims with higher revs. The alternator will self excite and it does until I put lights on- well, the light comes back on as soon as there is any drain on the electrics. Can I replace with a 24V resistor and if so where would I get one from? I have heard that some just bypass with some wire bared at each end but why is the resistor there if you can just bypass it? Anyway, thanks in advance for any advice! Cheers, Paul.
  19. Thank you for the really helpful replies everyone! If I'm not too hung over tomorrow, I'l give it a go.. Cheers, Paul
  20. Hi all. Had a good search through the archive and cant find anywhere the easy way to remove the front wiper motor. Need to swap mine for the 24V version as the 12V don't like running at 24V! Well i say that but they run about as fast as a normal car so that can't be good on a landrover! Anyway, any advice is much appreciated as looking at it I'm not even sure which side the motor is on! (RHD) Cheers, Paul
  21. Cheers western. Thought that the length of forward push would probably be the difference but cant see how that would make any difference with the slave cylinder. All I can think is its designed to handle the difference between the increase in pressure that the V8 cover plate would make.???? I have already have had a clutch centre rip out within 100 miles with my diesel conversion and I don't fancy having any more problems that could be sorted ASAP, hence my concern regarding the slave! Thanks again peeps!
  22. Hi all. Real quickie as off out but desperate for help! After nearly 2 months of problems i thought I'd had it sorted untill I realised my slave cylinder is leaking like a good-un! Basically, what is the difference between the V8 slave cylinder and the 4 cylinder one? I have the V8 clutch fitted but with 4 cylinder set up if that makes sense. Anyway, thanks in advance as I could do with buying one tomorrow. Cheers guys Paul
  23. I take that I am the first to mess about and find out the fork arm for a V8 bell housing doesn't fit on a LT77 4C. Oh well, Might have to sort out a spare heavy duty one as I have a feeling the pivot point will puncture through at some stage. Cheers anyway Paul
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