tommi
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Posts posted by tommi
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If the bearing has gone on the PAS pump, wouldn't the power steering still work?
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Are the alternator and power steering pump driven by the same belt?
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Hi all.
Took the defender out tonight to test the recently serviced handbrake. It now works very nicely. However, yet more problems have arisen. Firstly, the power steering has stopped working all together, and secondly the battery warning light on the dashboard is flickering. I also noticed the volt meter was a couple of volts down on usual. I've looked under the bonnet, cant see anything wrong, such as a load of power steering fluid. When the engines running, their is a rattle/knock coming from the front of the engine, somewhere near the fan.
Any ideas please?
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Stirpped and rebuilt the handbrake today, now working well again. Thanks for your help.
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Ok, thanks western. Will take the drum off tomorrow and have a look.
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Ok, thanks for that. How do I know if the linkage is bent? It's not straight to start with is it?
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i have the same problem its mud or grit stuck in the clam mec if u take the drum off the back and clean all the parts out with brake cleaner will work but best is if u remove the mec and grease it should stop this my one bent the linkage when if failed so once u cleaned it all might have to check the linkage and re-adjust it hope this helps
Did yours fail in the same way? I.e. was stuck on, and then suddenly released?
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Hi All.
I went offroading a couple of weeks ago, and noticed that the handbrake didnt work very well, probably due to mud and water in the mechanism.
Now,I was at a junction today, with the handbrake on. As I pulled out, (after the relasing the handbrake), i realised the handbrake was stuck on. It was working well, as it nearly stalled the engine. I was halfway across a main road, so had to rev it loads while slipping the clutch to get out of the middle of the road. Then, a couple of seconds later, while still slipping the clutch, the handbrake released itself completely. Now, the handbrake doest work at all, almost as if the cable has snapped, except I've just looked and it hasnt. The cable seems to be moving the metal rod that goes into the drum like normal.
Any ideas what the problem could be?
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I got the LED's for the normal gauges (speedo, temp, fuel) from a shop on ebay:
I'm very pleased with them so far.
Tom
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If your already familiar with Microsoft products, your best bet is to use Microsoft Expression Web - formally known as Microsoft Front Page. It's relatively simple to use (compared to dreamweaver) and you can end up with a fairly good looking website. If you get into web design you will quickly realise the limitations of it, and then dreamweaver is the only way to go. You get more features, and once you get to know your way around the program, its much quicker than Expression Web.
KompoZer is usually regarded as the best free web design software, but it takes a bit of getting used to.
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I would imagine its a 300Tdi - as far as I can see the reg no. is N397RRP? Are you sure you didnt mistake the 'postcode' (GL54 2AR) for the reg number?
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Could you please add me to the list of attendee's. I will be camping as well.
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Why have 2 water temp gauges, ditch the original & fit a oil temp instead.
I've left the original water temperature gauge in the centre pod, mainly because I don't have any more gauges to fit. It will probably be replaced with a clock at some point.
I'm still on the lookout for a cheap 52mm clock...
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Hi all.
I've done a bit of laning, and would like to come along to this. Will I be allright in a standard 90 with fairly worn Avon Rangemasters?
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I was also dissapointed with the brightness of the stock gauges, and I fitted this kit off ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-...id=p3286.c0.m14
It works well. If you want to make them even brighter, you can drill out the green piece of plastic, just in front of the bulb. I haven't done this, as they are bright enough on their own. Heres a picture, doesn't look very bright due to the very bright LED gauges I have fitted, but it is a huge improvement over the original items.
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My disco 1 is a 1983 tdi.
I never knew they made discoverys in 1983
Seriously thou, congratulations
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Will 70mm do? If so how about
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/70mm-2-3-4-Silicone-...%3A2%7C294%3A30
You can also buy 68mm silicone hose, but its pricey
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/68mm-Silicone-1-Metr...%3A1%7C294%3A30
I have used the company before, and recieved excellent service.
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was the screen dry ? as that can put to much load on the motor & make it stop, otherwise it could be a sticky motor
No the screen wasnt dry. I only realised when I tried to switch them to fast during a torrential downpoor. What do you mean by sticky motor?
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I have used the search function but couldn't find anything. I've got a problem on my 1992 defender regarding the front wipers. The normal and intermittent settings work fine, but when i switch them onto the fast setting, they just stop (they do return to their correct position). They were working fine until a couple of days ago, and I haven't messed with anything behind the dash recently
. Any ideas what the problem could be?Thanks in advance.
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I like those. Good work.
Whats best for a turbo boost gauge Bar or PSI? or does it not really matter?
Doesn't matter as far as I'm aware. Fit whichever you fancy.
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I installed one rated at 20A off ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CIGAR-CIGARETTE-LIGH...s=|293:1|294:30
It's a quality piece of kit, much better than the standard socket.
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Couple of pictures in the dark. The LED bulbs in the speedo are such an improvement over the old ones.
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Looks great Tommi
Is the Turbo boost gauge easy to fit?
Looks to be, I haven't actually connected it up yet, as the T-piece supplied with the gauge is slightly too small for the turbo hose. This is a useful thread:
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=2104
As its digital, the hose goes to a sensor, which I have put in the engine bay. Then its just one wire from the sensor to the gauge.
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Thanks for all your help regarding how to rewire the gauges. I have now finished the dashboard, so here are a few pictures.
This is what I started with a couple of days ago:
I've relocated the fuel gauge and water temperature gauge to a pod, in the middle of the dash:
I've installed 3 new gauges into the display panel; a turbo boost gauge, water temperature gauge and a voltmeter. The gauges came from the same place as zulublue got his, Mcgill Motorsport.
The gauges LED, and really give a vivid display, even in bright sunlight.
I've left the original water temperature gauge in the centre pod, mainly because I don't have any more gauges to fit. It will probably be replaced with a clock at some point.
I also took the opportunity to replace the bulbs in the existing gauges with blue LEDs. I will take some pictures tonight in the dark, so you can see the difference they make.
Tom
Power Steering Failure & Battery Warning Light
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Right, I think I have found the problem. Please excuse my lack of technical knowledge.
The large 'pulley' which drives all the belts is loose. It wobbles around and the belts are not being driven correctly, explaining the lack of power steering, and the battery warning light. Here's a picture of the bit which is loose.
Now, i cant see if the bolt is loose on mine because of the fan gaurd etc. From that picture, their is a large central bolt, and 4 around the outside?
I wil probably take it down the road to the local garage and get them to do it; obviously now i know what the problem is ill have to get my dad to tow it for me.
Anybody has this problem before?