DC_
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Posts posted by DC_
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Hi fridge, check out the link regarding that part number
http://www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk/BeamEnd...Coil/index.html
It's recommended that i use STC1184 and the other part listed with it is if i have a 2 pin instead of a 3 pin.
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Ok part numbers i have(with the help of Spanners) got a hold of, just want to make sure they are correct.
Can anyone confirm?
STC1184 for amp
temp sender: ETC8496
washer: 243967
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It does, so lots of WD40 then it is......................
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Lightly oil it is then.
Just hope it frees up some.
Is there something that should help the plate slide back as the pin goes in? I have a feeling it might not just be seizing.
DC
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Cheers guys, ran out of WD40 so will get more tomorrow and soak the barsteward.
Will also pack it with a bit of grease.
DC
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Ok, can't find that part number so i take it it's out of date.........................da* and blast.
Just dont want to order the wrong part.
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So the plate thats visable in the hole...................shouldn't that be back a bit?
It slides to the left when moved with screw driver. How can i sort it?
Cheers
DC
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My prats book says RTC5089 but it may be superceded as mine only covers up to '91. A good alternative is to upgrade to a GM one, my RR has this and has been running a stoopidly powerful sports coil on this system without problems.
BTW the smear of grease nige mentions on the body should actually be heat-sink compound (like when you mount a cooling fan on your PC's CPU) also known as thermal grease. It's not critical but if you've got some it's preferable to just grease. Maplins sell little syringes of it for pennies, or I can post you one FOC.
Right i will go look for that part, the upgrade you mention fridge, is it an easy task? Kind of wire i'll need to extend it from the dizzy?
i dont wanna get too carried away, just want to see if the amp is the problem and then i will be a happy chappy.
Alex, thanks for the info mate, it's only ever backfired once on LPG and all my leads have just been renewed so hopefully thats the end to that for now.
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Can anyone confirm if this is the part i need RE: ignition Amplifier (the one that attatches to the dizzy)
STC1184
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I will take a couple of pics and let you see. Looks not too bad to me but then again i am probably wrong.
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You cant get yours open, and now i cant get mine closed. When i look in the hole where the pin on the bonnet is supposed to slot into, there's a piece of metal shaped a bit like a half moon, protruding into the space where the pin is meant to go. I have pushed it back with screw driver but it just returns to block the hole.
Any thoughts?
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LOL, not the fuel pressure sensor on the left (The easy one) but the one under all the hoses next to the injectors...........................................the one i nearly burned my skin off on sunday evening trying to get it off whilst the engine was roasting.
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Cheers Hybrid, really appreciate the input. My gut is telling me Amp on side of dizzy for some reason.
Does anyone know the part number for this as i have scoured through craddocks and paddocks with no luck.
when you wrote
"remove plug from top, I think 2 screws to body of dizzy and off it pops, can be done with dizzy in place (although your learnt this bit !!) make sure surface to dizzy and back of ampo is clean smear of grease and bolt on and replug plug and see."
Do you mean make sure it's clean of grease or put a little on the back of it?
CTS=
Is this it?
Again if anyone has a part number that would be brill.
I don't know anyone at the moment with a testing kit for fuel pressure.So kinda stumped for now on that one.
Cap is after market i think but new.Leads are lucas and new, arm is lgenuine and cleaned up in the last week.
Did make more sense.
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Thanks guys for the input, i just feel like i'm bugging and not understanding some of the time.
Idiots guide sounds great rustyrangie lol
Would work for me.
Right so.................i need to test the ohms for the coolant sensor and the TPS?
I have taken the TPS off whilst the car was running as it didn't change anything, mind you, i think it was still relativly cold.
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Awwwww ma heed!!!
Right i'm off for a beer and to watch Doc Martin.
All this learning in one night
Cheers gang, i'll be at the bar all night with all the help you lot are giving me, Really do appreciate it.
DC
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Hi jwriyadh
Idle speed is ok as far as i know, it's only when it's started that it runs fast then settles down to around the 800rpm in around 3-5 seconds.
Idles great until it heats up then the problem starts. Heating up usually takes around the ten minute mark then it starts to cough.
resistor?? i've still to fully figure out how to check the ohms on anything. Is this a part or somthing i should already have?
Again sorry, i really am learning from the start.
DC
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quote from Hybrid "manually opening the ADFM Flap to see the pressure."
Sorry ADFM flap, i don't know what this is.or what i'd be looking for to measure the pressure.
"check the TPS via multimeter for smoothness as throttle is depressed and settings value"
Throttle Position Sensor?? CHecking it via multimeter...............can you talk me through it.
Sorry again.
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ok, will have a look at my meter and see if it's on it.
Cheers
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Ok, just need to figure out how to measure it now with my multimeter LOL
DC
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My amp is on the dizzy.I will look to see how much they are.
Sensor = When on petrol it looks likely that it is running rich by the carbon deposit on the spark plugs.
If this sensor is failing would this be a likely symptom?
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Ignition amp..........................ok back to basics, Thats the amp on the side of my dizzy is it not? Black box with plug attatched?
Hybrid thanks for the info but slightly too advanced for me. AFM air flow meter was unplugged when running and the engine cut out, so i take it that's ok.
Coil= i have one ready to go on so will do that at weekend.
Ignition amp = will look into it.
Any thought on the engine coolant sensor??
Stepper motor??
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Idles great on petrol and also idles great on LPG until it warms up, then it starts to chug and struggle.
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Also found this on another site, do you think this could also be a factor as i did get a backfire when it was running on LPG, then after this my cutting out problems started really.................
......................................At the left hand of the engine there's a little, "stupid" tube that makes the entire engine run badly if it breaks (marked with an arrow in the picture).
Some days ago, my RR 3.9 Fi '90 with LPG made a "gunfire" from the engine. I discovered that this little tube was cracked and, instead from it, the engine was taking "free air" making this effect. Also the rpm of engine was irregular, both at minimum and over 2000 rpm.
Repairing: I cut out a little piece (1/2 inch) that was broken and I refix it. Now, the engine runs perfectly.
Too Much Fuel? Part 2
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
Ok folks,
Got the CTS in today and replaced it...................Engine is now running better but i would say it's not fully right.
It idles at around 950rpm and i let it run for about 30 mins, before it would be about ten mins gone and it would start to get very rough and cut out, then take an age to restart.
Now.................it idles ok and can run on and on and on without getting the coughing and cutting out all the time.but.............when i select a gear (auto) sometimes it'll cut out, sometimes it'll idle at around 350-400rpm.
It'll start up alot quicker now with the sensor replaced.
Do you think i need to adjust my idle speed to do away with the risk of it cutting out in a gear or could this be signs that the AMP is still needing replaced?
A slightly happier DC