zulublue

Well I fitted the new parts today and guess what no difference, I tried everything I could think of !!!???!!!! I got to the point I thought it was the rear spring that not strong enough as the bearing was dropping in to the plunger recess and stopping the plunger moving in or out, I went to a mates garage in the end and found one he had lying around. If you need to change the parts, just buy a new one and be done with it, but there about £55. The one I put on is a little too easy and it's hard to distinguish the stop between 1st and reverse, but I notice there are 2 shims on where it mounts so I may need to remove one or two to create some more pressure.

I was getting the grey/white smoke and had a knocking noise which I could hear more from the exhaust end, I took the head off and had it checked one of the exhaust valves had chipped off but from underneath so not noticable from the top. All sorted now.

Thanks Ralph, I have ordered a new plunger, bearing and (circlip as mine did not have one). John Craddocks said you can't buy the parts for them

Burnt valve, sounds similar to mine a couple of weeks ago

Ian what BHP difference would you be looking at?

I have just fitted a cage, as I don't want to rely on a piece of alloy to save my neck although just having a cage is no guarantee, good belts / harnesses depending on what you are doing. I have a truck cab so no internal for me, if I did have a hardtop I would go for a full external if I required the space or half & half if not.

My gearbox decided not to engage reverse, I guessed it was the reverse plunger sticking and once I had removed it is looks like the bearing has worn down so it sits below half way on the plunger and thus it jams, I can find the parts for the plunger casing and plunger shaft, but can you get the bearing on its own? if not does anyone know what size bearing it is in there? Also looks like the circlip has gone any ideas on this. I have done a temporary fix for now binding some thin wire around the drop in on the plunger so it lifts the bearing about 1mm. It might be a case of getting a complete new unit.

Hi Mark, yes same everything.

Quick sketch of what im thinking.

Hi Nige, I was in the same position today, have tried various ways to mount it but think I am going to fit it on the rear stay, I've had it previously on the back of the cab but it was a pain in the bum trying to put it on and you need to get in the tub to lift it that far over, only thing is I have not decided where the waffle boards are going yet, I think when I put the locker cupbards in I will make part of them lower and sink the boards in to the locker top and just have one larger door on the top. Looking good mate

It's a Snowlander. LOL looks like it's eating a brick

I swapped my defender engine after I hydrolocked it to a disco unit, BUT I only used the block so the temp sender was the original one, on the old engine it sat at half way but on the new block it sits on the end of the white bar, never moves over it I have an X-Eng thermo switch placed in the lower output pipe which has never come on, so I guess the red is doing its job. I just found it strange that the same sender can give a different reading by just swapping the block.

Hi Simon, the switch does not have lighting behind it so at night I can't see anything in the cab, having the light this gives me the knowledge that there is power to them, there is no point fitting it to the output of the relay as all being well there should be 4 spotlights on when triggered. To put it simply, at night how do you know if a switch is on or off, I have around 10 switch's on the dash and it's good to know what is active.

I know how to wire the spots up in the normal fashion, the 3 points i want to get round are these. I want to have the lights run off the high beam = easy connect the high beam wire as the switch to the relay =done I dont want to run the main power to the spots through the switch or light = so it goes in and out of the relay =done I had as in picture 1 a green indicator light which shows when there is power to the relay/spots, the only way i can see to do this is if i run the + power through the switch then the indicator light then back to the main power input to the relay, which as I said I want to avoid. I cannot run it off the highbeam light as this is only active when i pull or push it. HTH

I am using 2 relays, I only put in one relay for an example. Thanks for you help, wonder if Mud Stuff sell them

Would that be something like this?

OK, this has had me baffled for a few hours, I must be losing it. :doh: When I purchased my D90 the wires for the spotlights were already in place, when i fitted the roll cage last week I put some other spotlights on, I did a test for voltage and it was around 9v hmmmm I thought anyhow I started tracing the wires back and found a bit of a mess, so I decided to remove it all and start again. I have wired a 27A cable from the battery isolator to my main panel and used this to spur off to a few items, air pump and 2 pairs of spots. Now the original set up had the following, 4 spots 100W each, but only 1 relay I always use 1 for each pair, a dashboard switch to isolate the spots and a light to show when there is power to the spotlight relay. Wired like this Now I want to keep the same use for the switch and the light, but want to have the main load going in and out of the relay and not via the switch or the light, I can wire it up using the switch only and channel the power from the flasher stalk as the trigger for the relay, but how can I have the light on showing there is power to the spotlight relay, if I do it off the stalk there will only be power when I pull it back or push forward. this is how far I have got, can anyone fill in the blanks please I have even looked at buying the Mud Console but cannot work out how I can do this with carling switches

Daan, do you have any pictures I would like to have a look at other options please.

Hi Dan, can you explain why please, am I missing something? Just to give you a bit more info, the highlift is going on one of the rear stays, the waffle boards will mount across the tub and the sides of the tub will be boxed in with locker doors like Ced's pictured below to hold ropes etc. Something like this if it works out.

Nige, I'm in exactly the same position as you and took some time the other day pondering this, I sat the wheel on the B hoop but as stated it blocks the rear view, the wheel well is a good idea IMO, I put the wheel against the rear stays, but mine flare out so it was a bit more difficult, I ended up deciding that flat on the tub floor was the way to go, so I went on ebay and got this today for £5, he is only a few miles away so no carriage charge, I think you can work the rest out.

Thanks Karl

Can someone tell me what the correct name of these locks are please that Ced has used on his storage boxes.

Thanks Lars

I am going to fit the head back on tomorrow, but wanted to check if this is correct for ajusting the tappets / rocker arms. rotate crank until #2 valve is closed, then ajust valve #1 & #8 rotate crank until #3 valve is closed, then ajust #2 & #7 And so on feeler gauge spacing is 0.20mm on all rocker arms? 200TDi