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Hi Ralph, Something is not right, I changed the UJ's about 10 months ago, but after I did I got a vibration when coming to a slow stop, I have just changed the prop for a spare one I had as the old one had play in to shaft it has new UJ's and now I get this vibration again so I can only guess it is the prop, it does seem short anyhow as some of the spline is showing so need a solution really, of course if I could save a few pounds it would be better. I will have a look at gywns props.

Ok Points taken, £££££ Time

I want to fit a Double Cardan prop to the front of my 90, the Disco II version is a lot cheaper than buying one for a Defender, I have in my mind somewhere that the DII prop is a lot shorter than what is needed for a Defender, can I just use the adapter on the link below or do I need a spacer on the axle end also. I am running a 200TDi and LT77 / LT230 set up. LINK Mark.

Hi Will You need to advise us what you will be using the Landy for, what mix of on/off road? some people will say why bother fit a diff locker!!!!! so here you go be prepared for some reading. this thread will become a can of worms as there are many different thoughts on what a good set up is, I have a bit of a mix of both of the above. Both are good kits, I do use the D44 springs, but would use Gwyn's OME shocks as they are 5.5" travel over the D44 2" (Devon may do the longer ones now) I use Gwyn's front and rear shock mounts, but with QT reverse location cones. I made the trailing arms myself, one thing you will need that is not mentioned in the link is extended brake hoses. Shop around a bit, listen to people and sit back and make your own mind up. Mark.

David, mine is about the same 74 flat out, but with MT's on I tend to stay about 60, I have 235x85 and the speed say's 77 but the gps says 74

It does, you can just get to all 4 wheels without moving it, bit of a stretch though.

I have to agree with Tim, how can you condone fraudulent behavior is beyond me I understand your point you say it is out of reach but the product is good and commands the price it has to cover development costs, we are not talking a Microsoft here who are aware of illegal operating systems but due to their size it does not affect them so much. Save your hard earned £££ and buy one, how would you feel if you had spent years developing the software only for someone to copy it, how would you feel if you worked for MM and the company went bust because people had illegally copied the software you would call them every name under the sun, do the decent thing and save up.

Welcome to the world of the ever open wallet, and LR4x4 You first need to decide what you will be using the truck for, I take it from the price you are looking at a family car? for the off roading side any landy will provide a good Day's entertainment, first thing to check would be the tyres and make sure you have a happy medium of on road and off road tyre. If you decide to like the off road life, have you considered a nice on road truck for £7k and also get a more off road prepped truck for fun day's and green laning? I think before you buy, if anyone local to you could take you on a play day or green laning it may help you decide the way to go. Mark

Can you hear this noise at the exhaust end it sounds similar to what I had a few weeks ago, it was a broken valve but it had gone underneath on the valve seat.

Replied to your PM Dave Mark.

Welcome Dan, nice looking truck mate I am sure I have seen you around and about!!!!! Like the urban laning in pic 1 Mark.

does this help Carling pin positions I know they are numbered on the sides, but if you can work out 1 or 2 you maybe able to decipher the rest.

What is the switch for? Is it a MOM OFF MOM?

Mud Stuff, do a carling switch removal tool, dont know how it works yet as I have not fitted mine, sorry I don't have any Double Pole switches but if the numbers are in the same position for each switch let me know and I will jot them down, or you could call Mud Stuff I am sure they will help you out.

Decided to change the gauge and sender unit, I now know exactly what is happening and all for £18

Thanks Steve, a good explanation of cause and solution, now the painful part ££££

Thanks Guy's, I dont really get much vibrations just a little when coming to a stop but I want to remove any future issues I could face, plus I think my front prop is a little short so want to change that. So it looks like back to plan A with DC on the front and Wide Angle on the rear.

Grapes sorry couldn't resist

Ok, I wan to try and finally make my decision on witch way to go; I had made my mind up at one point to use double cardan on the front and wide angle on the rear but after speaking to a guy from Bailey Morris Ltd who had some very nice looking props on show, when I asked about the double cardan IIRC he said you only need to use a DC if either face of the output or input flange is not level and by this I mean vertically or horizontally level, it does not matter if the route is offset either left or right or up and down, So basically if the T-box output flange is level both ways and the same for the input flange on the diff, I will just need a wide angle unit. Anyhow, today I fitted my X-brake and thought I would grease the props up, the front prop was shot so I got my spare and had a look at what I had been told, now due to the lift my front axle tilts slightly forward and thus the input flange is not sitting vertically level, so if you view it from the side it points between 12 and 1 O'clock position, so if I am thinking correctly I would need a DC prop, BUT sticking in the back of my mind is the point if the axle is slightly angled forward this opens the angle from the prop up so there would be less tension on the prop, so why do I need a DC prop?? Do I go for cranked radius arms and wide angle prop or just go for a DC prop? Sorry for the poor diagram, but it may help understand my thinking

The A-Frame war was started today, the A Frame to chassis bolts came out very easily, I removed the nut but kept the bolt it until the ball joint came out, and then it started I decided to give it a good spray of WD40 and a whack with the lump hammer to loosen it up, I inserted a 5ft bar under the A Frame and above the axle and started to add pressure and more and more until I was bouncing on the damn thing, at 19.5 stone I would have thought that would have moved it but no the bar bent instead. So a few more hits with the Birmingham screwdriver as recommended above and tried again, still the same so got a lump of 4"x4" timber and sat it on the trolley jack and jacked the A Frame up to the wheels were just about to lift off the ground, it then got its third hiding to nothing at which point it decided to give in and pop out. Thank F%^& for that, went to a mates garage, in to a large vice whacked the ball joint out, on to the press popped the bushes out, pressed in the new ball joint (why do they have those bolts on the ball joint where is it expected to go?) pushed the bushes in and home I went, took about 10 minutes that bit. I cleaned the bush mounts off, greased them up to aid fitting, and my god was it a tight fit, ended up removing the exhaust so I could jack the bushes in to place, I think I made the mistake of inserting the ball joint and loosely tightening it up, this seemed to play havoc with the angles at the bushes end, got one bolt in, but the other was been a pig so stopped had a think, and shouted MOM.................... can you put your back against the tub and rock the truck side to side, not bad at 65 I then put a bar behind the tricky side and it edged forward, thanks mom :-) So its all done, I have not driven it yet as I then fitted the tub floor which I removed to fit the cage. X-Brake and Mud console from the show tomorrow so more to do.

I udderley agree Ralph, problem is it will aid floating when in deep fords, and your passengers fingernails will soon demolish that side of the dash. To be honest it is different, and the wood is good grade but not worth £100 IMO

I don't know Ralph, we drive motors that get blaimed for climate change, and now you want to add some rain forest to it you should be for thinking such things

I will return to my cupboard and create a new diagram put all the part numbers in Excel and create a power point presentation on how to fit them, techie don't know what you mean Ralph

Found another white wire today Ralph, just a little thicker than the one I had attached to, I put my current reader on to it and was live and more stable than the previous one so I have swapped it over. All looking good, and for the money the temp gauge and sender is a bargain, come with adapters which went straight in to my 200 Sorry about the pic quality taken from my blackberry, and that is Diesel not water on the block as I found a split on the fuel rail pipe which has only been on 2 weeks!!!! just seen my fuel gauge aswell they goes £10 of derv.

Ralph don't put yourself out. The white wire it's connected to is around bell wire diameter, there is another one thicker but it's 3 times as thick.