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Sharp Pointy Thing

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Posts posted by Sharp Pointy Thing

  1. true...but personally I don't tend to drive in the towns too much...nor overtake people when I'm there. :rolleyes: Maybe that's the problem...."townies" clogging up our nice country roads on dipped beam cause they're not used to turning on main beam to see further, it's obviously just for flashing that ignorant bloke in the Land Rover <_<...... have some worklamp! :lol:

  2. The problem I found then I put hardened steering bars on was that with BFG 265/75 MT's Kwickfit, ATS etc can't get their tracking gear around the tyres and the little laser doesn't even pretent to clear the edge of the tyre... doesn't even get to the tread :lol:, so I did it with string and squared it to the rear wheels....few days later found out about a place that had drive on pads to do the tracking so I figured I just have it checked. It was spot on and the fitters there couldn't believe you could do it so accurately with string!! :i-m_so_happy:

  3. If we're having a rant about lights......

    How about the people that drive everywhere at 35 mph on dipped beam so you can't see to overtake (unless you know the road well enough) and never use main beam (probably why they're driving a 35!) so once you've found your nice long stretch to overtake, go around them, THEN THEY KNOW WHERE THE MAIN BEAM IS AND GIVE YOU PLENTY OF IT!!!!! :o GRRRR :angry:

    arhhhh...that felt good :P

  4. It's shown as a Byway on Streetmap. Maybe it got upgraded before NERC came in, the local RoW office would be able to confirm.

    Hi all

    Please forgive the possible newbie like question, but here goes...north west of the lane shown in the streetmap link (thanks Mark) there's a lane that runs along the edge of the Claerwen Reservior. Is it open and is it a good lane? I ask because a friend and I we're out a few weeks ago and saw it on the map but it was quite a distance from where we were and weren't too keen to drive all the way over to find it closed like 2 others we came accross that day.

    We're fairly new to laning so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks

    SPT

  5. Yes indeed the RR TD6 is BMW's 3.0d common rail diesel engine, they put it in 3,5 & 7 series as well as the X3 and X5.

    Very good, powerful and reliable from what I here, my dad's TD6 did just under 100,000 being trashed and I do mean trashed!! :rolleyes: from the day he bought it, without missing a beat.

    can't help with...

    Repairs?

    What to watch for?

    ...tho I'm afriad

    SPT

  6. Cheers Chris

    ... Either that or unbolt the calliper and steering arms completely, and remove the swivel and shaft and use it as a opportunity to change your swivel oil seals as well?

    mmmm I thought this, while it's apart I may as well, I did a tempory job with the one by cutting it at the top and bending it round, so it would be a good opportunity to do it. When taking the swivel off like this can you get to the seal between the axle/diff and swivel/hub? i.e. keeping the EP90 out of my grease :lol:....which it doesn't do at the moment :rolleyes:

  7. more work than the back, in that you've got to (re)move the front half shafts somehow, either by pulling the whole swivel off in one, or dismantling it to get the CV and shaft out.

    hmmm I think I favour the "whole swivel method" sounds a lot better....probly only needs to move a few inches to be clear of the diff and the brake pipes should be long enough to do that, sound about right?

  8. If you forget about the nut - any chance of a piccy of your busted conk/fat lip ? :D

    Les.

    Sure I'll do you a step by step if you like?

    Lack of the nut

    Face after

    Where the blood and teeth went

    The A&E I go to

    Face when patched up again

    I'll try and get one of the X-Ray too but they can be a bit funny about that sometimes! :P

    Sharpy

  9. Sweep the floor in the workshop and you'll probably find 90% of the bits you need

    :lol: :lol: too true!

    They can be a right beatch to get off and yes, the proper puller would make life a lot easier - but not as much fun :lol:

    :lol: Cheers I'll give it a go

    Thanks everyone....I'll post back tomorrow when I've pulled the steering column out!

    Sharpy

  10. You need a bit of angle or box section as well as the bolts.

    Drill clearance holes in the angle at the same spacing as the treaded holes in the steering wheel.

    Put bolts through angle into holes the wheel the angle then braces against the centre thread while you pull the wheel towards the angle by tightening the bolts.

    Somtimes the wheel is well stuck on though and I have known this method to strip the thread in the wheel. Make sure the bolts are long enogh to engage all the thread in the wheel before they start pulling!

    Arh I see thanks, I've just seen these on ebay

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Landrover-special-st...1QQcmdZViewItem

    But with Royal Mail "thowing their teddie" I probly could make one before the post gets here.

    Thanks

    get the hammer out and smack it from behind ;)

    Failing that /\ /\ /\ Mr. Steering wheel will meet "The Persuader"!!

    cheers guys

  11. Morning

    After getting quite annoyed at oil seals last night I thought "I know I'll fit my new steering wheel...that'll be a nice easy job and will make me feel better" how wrong I was! <_< (I've got one of the big old ones by the way)

    So I undid the nut and left it on the end so it didn't smack me in the face :lol: and gave i a bit of a tug...wouldn't move...gave it a lot of a tug... still wouldn't move <_<

    Then I saw "USE EXTRACTOR TO REMOVE WHEEL NOT HAMMER" just as I was considering getting the hammer! Didn't have one but saw the tapped holes either side I'm guessing for the extractor?? So I screwed a couple of very strong bolts into them as I figured that's how the extractor works, one of the botls snapped off (have to remove that now) and the other just bent round the bit it pushes on! :angry::angry::angry: ARRHHHH

    Can anybody help before I do the hammer out? :P

    Cheers

    SPT

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