[The Bodging B*****DS!]

You won't find any gaskets on a defender gearbox.

They don't have any, you use gasket sealant to mate the cases.

Same goes for the sump

What??? thanks for the input

Anyway have been out and got all gaskets, and two lots of dextron 3, ordered new gaiters that arrive next week. I'll then fit a wading kit, but sadly as I've got a 2.8 Isuzu in my 90 I'll have to have plates made up for the timing cover etc, if it needs one that is, anyone know?

But I'd just like to say thanks to all those who've helped me on this you've been a great help

[The Bodging B*****DS!]

Yes you can - the local motor factors will sell you a 25l drum of EP90 and probably the same of ATF.

BTW extended breathers can be made cheaply with push-fit pneumatic bits, look in the tech archive.

Oh and running breathers up to the snorkel has been blamed for sucking oil out of axles all my breathers are run to roof height in the cab.

Cheers I'll have a look.....

Sucking oil out of axles? :o how?

[The Bodging B*****DS!]

Its is best flushed with ATF ……………… filling with MTF is an option………. but IIRC LR still recommend Dextron ATF II or III for LT77 & LT77S boxes……..there is a lot written on this subject ……… the book seems far from closed.

As Chris rightly says, under no circumstances fill the box with EP90 or the pump in the front of the box will break ………..

As a point of interest ………….. have you checked the G/box breather for integrity, and / or have you extended it ?

Also if your G/box has water ingress (that may or may not have entered from the breather), it may pay to check the transfer box as this breather is terminated in the same place as std.

Ian

Cheers Ian for the further oil choice, but I think I'll definately take Ashcrofts advice on the ATF as it's the one that's been mentioned the most, if that makes sense?

I had a look at the G/B breather and it looked ok from what I could see, but I will be extending them all as I've only done the front axle...a little pointless I know doing only one but the original was non-exsistant!

I'll drain the T/B too then...hmmm I wonder if you can buy job lots od EP90 and ATF.....

What's the best way to extend the pipes, join another to the end of the standard one, or will a wading kit have ones long enough to reach from the G/B and T/B? Also where's the best place to run the rear axle to? Somewhere on the back or all the way to the front and up the snorkel with the others?

Cheers

Dan

[The Bodging B*****DS!]

Just for clarity - or for something else to debate - Ashcrofts say ATF D2 or D3 for an LT77 or MTF94 for an R380...

Chris

Ashcrofts seem to be the people for all things transmission, so I'll go with what they recommend me thinks, cheers again

[The Bodging B*****DS!]

Yea I figured cheaper stuff for the cleaning if poss

and will check axles and engine too thanks, I can only check the engine by draining tho can't I? unless I'm luck enough to see it on the drip stick

Cheers

[The Bodging B*****DS!]

If you have a 5 speed gearbox, DO NOT put EP90 into it. It should be filled with ATF which is thinner and will NOT damage the oil pump in the gearbox. Otherwise, I agree that flushing with fresh oil is about the best you can do.

The transfer box should be filled with EP90.

Chris

Ok thanks Chris, ATF it is! That could have cost me

Anybody any idea about these gaiters then?

Cheers

[The Bodging B*****DS!]

They may well have fitted all of the correct gaskets. Water ingress doesnt neccessarily mean that someone bodged the gearbox. Welcome to owning a Land Rover

Drain the emulsion, refill with EP90, drive for 30mins, drain, refill, job done

I like to use ATF in most things - its not strictly a gear oil as it is not a lubricant, but it can withstand a lot of water contamination and still perfrom its job

Ha ha thanks, yea I'd thought that would be the case, but there's quite cleary a couple of gaskets missing as it was just metal on metal, with a slight red mark here and there from where it had been scraped off! I remember thinking "my, that came off easily...oh wait"

Cheers for the info, it is EP90 then, I seem to remember someone saying there was a better one to put, GS something maybe? but it could well have been this ATF you mention, is it readily available from the usual places?

thanks

[The Bodging B*****DS!]

Because whoever fiddled with my gearbox thought it would be a idea to leave out a gasket or two, so I when drove into the lake at Farley quarry (see video shack) and the bloody thing just filled with water...RAGE!!!

arrh...rant over...I feel a bit better now!

Anyway I've opened the top up (the best I can without removing the gearbox or seat box) and it doesn't look bad to be fair, just a bit "milky"

So just couple of questions if you would be so kind:

- the best way to wash out the "milky-ness"?

- what kind of oil do I need to put in after I've drained it?

- does anyone know where I can buy the two smaller gear gaiters (that go under the main one) that cover the main high box ball joint / spring, and the the low box / diff lock? I've look on ebay, Cradock's, Famous 4's, MM4x4 and Paddock Spares, none of them have them, I'm going to APB Trading to get the gaskets but they didn't know which gaiters I meant so it doesn't look promising. Any ideas?

Thanks

SPT

[Larger P.A.S. Reservoir needed.]

I've got a proper old school one on my 90 which I've been meaning to change to the modern one I bought, it's not the best but do you want a pic?

[Sharp pointy gearbox problem...]

Why??

IIRC there is a sort of ball and spring arrangement which provides the detent, never had one in bits so I can't tell you where it is or how you get it out though, but I swam Dad's old farm 90 in a river a few years back (half way up the windows at the back...) and it had a similar problem a couple of months later, and when he got it fixed he said that is what it was and it needed dismantling and cleaning/lubing.

Also expect clutch problems over the coming months, if you haven't already...

Cause it'll cost me lost of money and it sounds like I'm going to have to spend it!

Yea I know the ball joint/spring, I did consider taking it off but wasn't sure any know about it? also as it was only 2 weeks ago if a oil drain etc would sort it?

Cheers

[Sharp pointy gearbox problem...]

Morning, these threads of mine are becoming a regular thing

So my gearbox...it's quite stiff, getting hard to select reverse especially on a angle , the "notch" (can't think of a better way to describe it) between the forward gears and reverse is getting very hard to push past and the gear-stick won't come back past the "notch" on it own now

It has been like this since I took the 90 for a swim (almost certian that's the problem) and is getting worse to be honest.

So have I got water in there and if so what can be done?? Please don't mention Ashcorft's

Thanks to all help given

Sharpy

[So steering boxes....]

Morning Les

Thanks for the help it was spot on, but I think someone has been and adjusted it a few times before me as it went about half a turn in and and hit the stop, but still seems to be a bit of play, these no play in any of the column joints etc...How good can you reg a C Reg 90 with 170k on it? I've been thinking about a smaller steering wheel (mines one of the big ones), would it make the play less noticeable?

Also I'm going to start a new thread, but you any good with gearboxes?

Cheers

Sharpy

[So steering boxes....]

Thanks Les that's a great help

[UK beaches]

Muppet

Ha ha good one....a landy would have driven away long before then

[A vent I've seen...where can I get it?]

yes tis true...SO HANDS OFF!!

[A vent I've seen...where can I get it?]

cheers colin

[So steering boxes....]

Hi Les

Yes definately a 3 bolt then, I just spoke to a guy at my local LR specialist and he said it is the strongest and that I don't need to change it if there's just play, he said there's an allen bolt that I can simply thighten up and should sort it but he was a little vauge of where it is...any ideas?

Cheers

Sharpy

[UK beaches]

In White Sands in St David Pembrokeshire, I drove down onto the beach in my 90 had a BBQ with some friends while the sun went down B) and then went back to the campsite, I was told by another a guy with his 4x4 on the beach "just wait until after 5 when the warden goes home and knock yourself out" and he was from the Foresty Commission!

here's a pic

[So steering boxes....]

I'm thinking about changing my steering box as it has some play in it and it would make life easier.

So I have a couple of questions:

So there's different kinds; 3 bolt, 4 bolt and so on, I think mine is a three bolt cause it has a triangular plate on the top with 3 bolts...Is that right?

Is a 4 bolt or 6 bolt etc, better / smoother / stronger than a 3 bolt? cause they seem more expensive.

If not what's the difference?

Finally (may have been answered by the other questions) if I have a 3 bolt, would a 4,6 etc fit my 90? It's an C reg 86

I'm asking a lot I know but help would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks

Sharpy

[A vent I've seen...where can I get it?]

Problem is that you would still have the opening under water - and if air can get in so can water. The only way to stop water getting in at all whould be a high level intake like a snorkel.

I'd thought sbout a series style snorkel that goes in the top of the wing...then I saw this /\ /\ /\

I have one of these on my 90. IMO one of the best mods i've done to it!

yeah,you can make sure the drain bung is clear/removed etc (done both on mine) but you only need to go through a "deep" splash (and i don't usually race through water at all) or just gently and get in a bit deep over the wing, and the heater WILL take a mouthfull of water,regardless of the drain bung or not.

this stopped it straight away. as a test i even tried the "camel trophy Mk1 method of river crossing" where i couldn't see a damn thing because of the bow wave, and my windscreen stayed condensation free!

And if your truck is one that's always covered in an inch of mud, then it stops the mud getting "washed" down through the heater ducting and eventually jamming up the matrix/motor (had that on my old 90, a right PITA!)

Yea getting wet shinns (like a tap being turned on thru the vent TBF) was one thing but then steamed up glass for a couple of days was quite annoying!!

So they work then? here's the video of why my vents were filling up http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/dd241/9...=Picture033.flv

Cheers

[A vent I've seen...where can I get it?]

Ok cheers, however if possible I want to in some way stop the water pooring through the vents into the cab once the bonnet goes under the water and that vent (at least in my newbie mind) looked like it would work like a toilet u-bend in reverse keeping water out, so long as the fan isn't on!....does that make sense?? If so do you think it would work?

Surley removing the drain plug will just help it get in faster?

Or is wet legs something I have to accept?

Thanks again

Sharpy

[A vent I've seen...where can I get it?]

Hi guys

While looking for a 90 for a friend I saw this vent on one (attached) and thought "MY!! that should stop the heater (and in turn the cab) filling with water when wading!" B)

So anybody know what they're called and where they can be found?

Cheers

[Light bar]

Mine a Series, but using a Defender light bar mounted outside the gutters instead of inside. I ran the wiring down the back of the snorkel. I have two switches, one operates the outside pair, the other the inner pair. Both switches obviously operate all 4. The inners are focussed for distance spot lamps, the outers are spread low and wide.

I hope this helps.

I like that think I'll do the same...good work!

[Engine/chassis numbers]

Hi Matt,

That's perfect thanks, yes a conversion was my thinking - like maybe a piston had "made a break for freedom" in his original 200TDi and he'd replaced it with a TD to keep cost down or something - but as I have an Isuzu engine in my 90 I know very little about what the different LR engines look like.

Thanks again

SPT

[Engine/chassis numbers]

Morning all,

Going to look at a 90 for a friend tonight, I think it's a 200TDi but the ad just says 2.5 turbo diesel, it's on a K reg (92) and does have TDi on the wings so very likely to be poor advertising, but just to be sure does anybody know what the engine number is likely to start with if it is a 200? Or an obvious way of telling the engine from a 2.5 TD?

Many Thanks

SPT