Eightpot
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Posts posted by Eightpot
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It's possible to pick up an early 200TDi 90 for less than a grand and a half now - I'd consider buying one of these, swapping all the best bits of your current truck over, then flog your old 90. Might cost less overall and save on spanner time. If you bought and sold well it might even by a free upgrade?
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No doubt has cost the owner a few bob along the way - recon engine, sturdy bumpers, rock sliders, steering guard etc. But as we all know, you never get back what you put in. Specially on a J plate disco.
And if I were going to go anywhere further than cornwall in it I'd want to replace all the manky old tanks, water pump and gubbins anyway.
Love the plywood pantry though
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An engine conversion isn't always bad news - the premium on my rangie dropped when I binned my V8 and put a diesel in, and it goes quicker now too
Have you checked out what kind of mpg you'll get from that big Perkins lump? (I don't know either) Don't underestimate how thirsty it might be and how much of your beer money you'll lose. There are plenty of old Rangies out there with TDi / isuzu conversions which will return a reliable 30mpg and be cheap to maintain.
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lots of wonga. Might do better speaking directly with one of the companies that do classic & 4x4 insurance to get a good idea - sureterm, Adrian Flux, Lancaster spring to mind - I've used them all in the past and got much better deals than through the comparison sites. You should phone them rather than just do an online quote though, and given your age you will probably have to anyway.
If you can find an ex police, fire, ambulance or MOD rangie, you will be able to get an ex military or blue light policy from one of those companies which tend to be cheaper - though you might find an age restriction applies. Also try to get a limited mileage policy, again it will knock $$$ off the price.
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If it's a shake through the steering wheel, and at low speed, I'd suspect worn panhard rod bushes or the bolts that pass through them, or even ovaling of the holes on the chassis/axle. Easy to check, just get someone to rock the steering wheel side to side while you look at the bushes.
Otherwise check swivel preload and also see if you've got too much play in your steering box. A little bit in each can add up to a lot of wobble!
The steering damper isn't there to take up play in the steering, though it can mask problems - you should be able to drive normally without it.
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Sounds like your master cylinder seals are worn.
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Where they driving a Wolf?
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I even know where that was taken i think - Storms River? It was also that windy last time i was there
That's the place, yes the wind did pick up in the evenings, was difficult keeping the braai alight. Tough being an overlander eh
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Rebel 4x4's universal snorkel comes straight out the top of the wing, quite cheap and good quality.
edit - just checked their website and it's £82 now - not cheap, but I fitted one a few years ago and it still looks like new.
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Just had a dig through my snaps and found this I saw in SA.
I'd like to see someone put together the UK version using a length of piano hinge, trailer tarp, gaffer tape and of course, some chequer plate
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Why does the guy advise going to all that trouble, when you could simply tighten the clutch plate? tsch.
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I tried making some with one of those cheap tools and gave it up as a bad job. It was quicker and easier to nip down to a local garage where they made up a new set for a few pounds.
I like to do everything myself, but when that little bit of copper is all that's stopping the 2 tons+ that I'm strapped to.....
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I had to postpone my trans-Africa trip by a month because of similar problems with the DVLA - had to update my change of engine from V8 to diesel on the logbook so details matched the carnet.
After weeks of waiting and getting to the point I could wait no longer, I went to the DVLA local office to see if they could help. My original request had still not surfaced in their system (after 2 months), but after giving one of the staff the new engine details, she tapped away on the keyboard, and -
surprise number one, said a new V5 would be with me in the next post!
Surprise number two, it arrived two days later!
Surprise number three - they had put the wrong engine number in!
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I presume early Range Rovers could be started with a handle as well - the front bumpers had a slot cut out and a hole in the valance behind which look like they were meant for a handle.
Rather than risk breaking important bits of your body trying to crank over a cold diesel, why not come up with a project to make a hand-cranked charger using an old alternator. Or rig one up to an old exercise bike.
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wouldn't it be easier to keep a spare battery or give the car a bump??
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Sounds like you might have a big air lock in the front brake circuit, or maybe a problem with the G-valve?
Presume your front brake calipers just have the single bleed nipple? My rangie has three, and if you don't bleed them in the right way you get a lot of air in the system.
When you changed the master cylinder, was it packed in grease? I've fitted one in the past and didn't get all the packing grease out, and ended up with a block in the brake lines which meant they wouldn't bleed properly.
Also when you changed the caliper pistons, have you checked they can move freely and aren't stiff or stuck in the bores?
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Diesel all day long for a camper I reckon. 200TDi might be a tad on the underpowered side, depending on your gearing, but stick a 2.8 Isuzu in and you'll quite literally be, a happy camper.
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And furthermore... the pressure inside the tyre changes with altitude (about 5psi per 10,000 feet) - so if you check your tyres on a hot day at sea level, then drive up the alps....
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my Range Rover was V8, and I changed to TDi, the TDi rad fitted neatly in the slot left by the V8 rad.
I do have a bit of a gap round the edge, could probably get a finger round it, but I've never had any cooling probs, even through several deserts.
I wonder if you bull bar is creating some kind of vacuum or vortex behind which is stopping flow through the rad or intercooler?
Is the normal land rover temp guage reading hot as well?
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I've made some heavy modifications to the front end of my Range Rover (same layout, same radiator) and this hasn't made any difference to engine cooling.
Have you fitted a seed net in front of the rad? I had one fitted in Africa and noticed same symptoms - took it off and temp immediately went back to normal.
Is the Mammoth bull bar disrupting air flow through the rad or intercooler? Have you got spots bolted on?
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Not really - all it does is catch and condense the oil vapour coming out of the breather rather than get it sucked through your air filter.
Some cans have an outlet to let you return the captured oil back to the sump, usually through a tee on the dipstick, otherwise just empty the can once in a while.
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..and I didn't know P38's used that type of caliper soz, too new fangled for me...
I had a Rover 200 a while back though which uses the same style caliper, and that was sticking on one side - as others have pointed out, the slider pins had got rusty and cruddy as the rubber seals had perished , new pins sorted it.
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France and Spain are heaving with great campsites, and most French supermarkets are stocked better than halfords for car spares and camping gear, so you really won't need much.
It is worth sorting breakdown cover out if you are not massively confident in your car or your ability to fix it with a lolly stick and tape if it goes wrong. I had an engine sieze in France a couple of years ago with no cover and it cost me more than I'd care to remember to get out of the situation. Also try calling a French speaking breakdown company and explaining what's wrong and where you are.... You can often get it as a cheap extension to your car insurance.
If you've got a few weeks, I can recommend heading over the Alps, through Austria and into Slovenia and Croatia. From Croatia you can get a car ferry back to Bari in the heel of Italy for a nice loop back up towards the Alps again and home. Stunning scenery, lots of campsites and a great coast road through Croatia.
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Sounds like the pistons are not backing off properly after braking. Maybe try taking the pads out, then press the brake pedal a couple of times so the pistons are more exposed and check for any damage and give them a good clean up, might fix it, if not probably need a rebuild.
Had this happen on my old rangie once and ignored it for too long, and the caliper set on fire!
Scimitor Range Rover ......
in International Forum
Posted
Not sure what made me feel more nauseous - struggling through the massive multi-coloured unpunctauted and comically spelt advert or the garish hotwheels-a-tron.