Jump to content

Eightpot

Settled In
  • Content Count

    1,611
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    10

Eightpot last won the day on September 12

Eightpot had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

106 Excellent

About Eightpot

  • Rank
    Old Hand

Profile Information

  • Location
    Worcestershire

Recent Profile Visitors

1,818 profile views
  1. The Numax batteries sold at Tayna are very good, been using them on various vehicles for 10 years or so - still got ones from 10 years ago too. they do a 110ah one for about £89
  2. ^^ yeah unless it's a hard to find alternator I wouldn't bother spending hours refurbing one. Last time I did one I found it was a lottery with the diode packs and regulators - had to rebuild it twice due to rubbish components and it lasted less than 12 months before the diode pack went bad again, nearly wrecking a battery at the same time. £50 and 30 mins changeover, job done.
  3. First thoughts would be a vacuum leak on the carb/inlet manifold preventing fuel from being drawn into the cylinders. If your plugs are wet with fuel try new plugs - for some reason plugs don't seem to tolerate it as much these days.
  4. Which handbrake type - cable direct into the drum or earlier link rods?
  5. I use a cheapy 80w panel, running through a cheap 20 quid solar controler off eBay to charge a second 110ah battery. It's on my African 110, more sun (though shorter hours) but more heat also, and that will keep my fridge going easily for 4 days without moving and without dropping battery voltage too low, but with beer temp set to icy cold. If I'm roof mounting a panel I attach it to a couple of hinges on one side so I can prop it up to follow the angle of the sun which does help. For your purposes a portable panel might well be a nicer fix, and less weight to drag about every day. On my old expedition rangie, I bought an equally cheapo 40w panel and ebay solar controller over ten years ago - the car has been laid up for a couple of years waiting for some tlc, but its second battery is still tip top, controller all lit up and panel pumping volts through. Happy enough with the cheap kit, certainly wouldn't pay out for more efficiency as I don't pay anything for the daylight in the first place 🙂
  6. I import lots from South Africa and wouldn't necessarily agree - coastal cars or boat launchers can be just as rotten, and even in dry areas, doors suffer the same fate albeit at a slower rate. There's also no manadatory MoT equivalent - it's rare if I don't have to replace every bush, ball joint, lamp, handle, switch, sender or seal on the car, and then move on to the delights of unravelling 20 years of diy electrical wiring horror - working on one at the moment, loom was so badly & pointlessly bodged it had to be binned. Importing something like that to the US would be a very expensive exercise.
  7. Don't know why everyone is painting perfectly good land rovers with loadbed liner these days- if you want a simple hard wearing paint just use polyeurethane enamel which comes mixed in the colour you want, can be applied with brush, roller or spray, is a ton cheaper and can be sanded down in the future.
  8. It just needs a feed from ignition activated live. As long as voltage is cut when key is taken back to position 0 you're ok.
  9. Bettee to buy a used good quality tent - EasiAwn, Howling Moon, hannibal. Waking up in a wet bed is rarely fun.
  10. It's a sliding switch that makes contact with one of two positions on its way down. The cable for the heater fresh air baffle is also attached and opens as you move down. The conatct for full speed is right at the bottom, with time the slider arm can get a bit bent and the thing full of crud. A quick way to test is just to pull the binacle clear, revealing the two green wires and black earth wire on the switch - bridge the earth and each green wire in turn, if you get a full fan speed back the switch is the problem.
  11. Is the switch working on both positions - have you got two blow speeds or is it only triggering the first stage? The switches can go faulty for a number of reasons.
  12. The bulkhead sits on chassis mounts as well as outriggers, so don't start cutting stuff up. Windscreen bolts are never easy to fit. It sounds like you just need to adjust the top door hinge - move it forward where it attaches to the bulkhead. This will pick the rear of the door up.
  13. Put a jump lead from battery neg to engine block - if it starts you need to clean up your earths. If it still clicks from the solenoid your starter is failing or not throwing out (gummed with mud/carbon)
  14. Go for a valeo 245mm clutch kit for Defender 130, and a strengthed clutch arm. If you break a swivel you're trying too hard, they do not need to be replaced in pairs. The thing that will cause the most problem on your car is the wheel spacers. Tyres themselves will be ok but they are a big tyre and won't help your clutch in a heavy car. 265/75 or 235/85 are better. Type of tyre depends where you're going and what you'll be driving on. If you're not sure just go for an all-terrain.
  15. I've got one of those 2.8s here- it uses the 1.6:1 transfer box which seems very strange on paper but works well in practice as it needs to rev out to 6000 rpm.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy