Eightpot

The speedo drives come out if you can twist it round with a gentle hammer and small chisel/old screwdriver then careful prying on both sides at once then a bit more chiseling and a bit more prying after a good spray of plusgas. If you just pry it tends to fracture the rim.

If you do get one & need to roll it across a field, logs do work (I used old telegraph poles) but they quickly roll earth up in front of them and dig in causing lots of jacking & pole moving . A couple of long planks laid down like rails for the logs to roll along was the charm and it pulled along very easily.

Just spent a few days shifting a 24 foot site office container from one side of the garden to the other using poles and a mini digger - thought my heart was going to burst with the effort, glad I didn't have to get it on & off a trailer as well 😄

It wasn't just a cheese dream, I did indeed take my cat through morocco and down to Mauritania - link here :

Popped one of these in at work a while back - yep a lot more intetesting than a tdi, fitted in relatively well with the corvette auto, but it's not a small or cheap project by any means.. I'd rather keep it in something sporty and plod about in the land rover, 450bhp in a 110 felt life threatening.

Nice 110 - most of the ex military ones are actually 12v - the FFR (fitted for radio) types had a 12v alternator as normal plus a second belt driven 24v alternator that powered large battery packs in the rear for the radio equipment. Some or all of that has probably been removed on your vehicle. The easiest conversion is using a Defender (not Discovery) 200tdi engine, if you can find one in the US. Discovery 200tdi can be fitted but the modifications needed are in my opinion less desirable than fitting a 300tdi from a later Defender/Discovery. You will also need additional parts such as radiator/intercooler and the frame they sit in, various pipes/hoses, fuel filter housing, air box, exhaust etc etc. Plenty of info on here in archives/tech pages.

Difficult to tell without seeing it, but from your description my first thoughts would be to check points gap (if fitted) and check the timing and advance mechanism are set up and working correctly. Other things that can cause rough running are bad dizzy cap, rotor arm, plugs and leads, and check plugs are correct type/temp range. Also plugs these days seem to foul up and die faster than they used to unless I'm imagining it..

I've just put an m10 bolt all the way to the shoulder in an open 90s era salisbury axle, so I'm pretty happy thats the one

I had a diff pan bolt on the bench today and an m10 nut ran up it perfectly

Sorry, off sick at the mo and brain duller than usual - reading off my phone and didn't notice it was the pan not the diff you were looking at.

Yes my mistake, they are unf, which is the same as the diff studs.

Same thread as UJ bolts which yes I believe is 3/8 unc

Ah shame, no worries 👍

I'm 20 miles south but pass Bromsgrove on the way to visit my folks on odd weekends, happy to help if I can?

I had a good look at a new britpart tank today. The spotwelds for the baffles are very feeble looking, they are quite difficult to see. I see you dont have the standard tank guard fitted, but probably a beefier guard that bolts underneath? The standard guard might actually help if you added some thin rubber or similar padding between it and the tank?