Jump to content

Eightpot

Settled In
  • Content Count

    1,604
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    10

Eightpot last won the day on September 12

Eightpot had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

102 Excellent

About Eightpot

  • Rank
    Old Hand

Profile Information

  • Location
    Worcestershire

Recent Profile Visitors

1,789 profile views
  1. It just needs a feed from ignition activated live. As long as voltage is cut when key is taken back to position 0 you're ok.
  2. Bettee to buy a used good quality tent - EasiAwn, Howling Moon, hannibal. Waking up in a wet bed is rarely fun.
  3. It's a sliding switch that makes contact with one of two positions on its way down. The cable for the heater fresh air baffle is also attached and opens as you move down. The conatct for full speed is right at the bottom, with time the slider arm can get a bit bent and the thing full of crud. A quick way to test is just to pull the binacle clear, revealing the two green wires and black earth wire on the switch - bridge the earth and each green wire in turn, if you get a full fan speed back the switch is the problem.
  4. Is the switch working on both positions - have you got two blow speeds or is it only triggering the first stage? The switches can go faulty for a number of reasons.
  5. The bulkhead sits on chassis mounts as well as outriggers, so don't start cutting stuff up. Windscreen bolts are never easy to fit. It sounds like you just need to adjust the top door hinge - move it forward where it attaches to the bulkhead. This will pick the rear of the door up.
  6. Put a jump lead from battery neg to engine block - if it starts you need to clean up your earths. If it still clicks from the solenoid your starter is failing or not throwing out (gummed with mud/carbon)
  7. Go for a valeo 245mm clutch kit for Defender 130, and a strengthed clutch arm. If you break a swivel you're trying too hard, they do not need to be replaced in pairs. The thing that will cause the most problem on your car is the wheel spacers. Tyres themselves will be ok but they are a big tyre and won't help your clutch in a heavy car. 265/75 or 235/85 are better. Type of tyre depends where you're going and what you'll be driving on. If you're not sure just go for an all-terrain.
  8. I've got one of those 2.8s here- it uses the 1.6:1 transfer box which seems very strange on paper but works well in practice as it needs to rev out to 6000 rpm.
  9. They didn't make tdi Defenders in 89 so you have a conversion anyway - no problem though as the engine loom is seperate & plugs into the main harness which as said is the same for petrol/diesel anyway. There is also a seperate loom which plugs in to the main harness which runs to the rear lamps, so if that part is good no need to buy again. Easy enough to change if not a bit fiddly, runs along the back of the lower dash
  10. Yours must have one of the last Hi-Lines then? Same as mine but I have an earlier 200tdi - also has a galvanised bulkhead and most of the steel items, even the shock turrets. Lovely spec on the car, you wonder why they didn't make a similar model for the UK??
  11. My 110 was made in South Africa with a locally produced chassis. I'd been wondering why the car leant to one side, even after fitting new springs - when I got the tape measure out I discovered they had built the chassis with one front outrigger an inch and a half lower than the other side! Good to know carp build quality affects Land Rovers universally, and as a plus it takes left hand bends beautifully 😆
  12. Back when 200tdi first came out, the factory offered upgrade kits for early engines, so could be argued it's a manufacturer replacement part rather than an engine modification maybe.. I really don't mind the 2.5d though, they have a charm of thier own and nice low down torque.
  13. Or yet more excitement : With the 2.5 and its 67 hp, small things can make a big difference - check the brakes don't drag, inflate the tyres (don't put huge tyres on it) make sure the handbrake fully retracts. Carrying weight doesn't seem to make much difference, but not carrying round unnecessary heavy items won't hurt. Getting the diesel injection timing just right makes a big difference with these, and can transform the engine, but the engine also needs to be in good condition with good compression. Worth changing the timing belt if it hasn't been done recently and taking time to accurately set the timing.
  14. ^^ exactly. A lot of people are miffed because a new Defender was promised and excitedly looked forward to - this isn't a new Defender. If they called it a Discovery Extreme or something no-one would be moaning. Instead of a notoriously simple long lived multi-purpose legend replacement, they made a boutique lifestyle version of a Range Rover, which I imagine, if it's anything like its stablemates, will depreciate at the same rate as the prohibitively expensive faults start to show across the highly complex drivetrain and electrical system and get binned before its 15 years old. It may be good business for LR, but only if these things don't depreciate like a falling rock - and based on the number of modern LR products I see in the workshop, some with terminal ailments that LR like to distance themselves from, there's no way I'd sink my cash into something like this unless it was a company car.
  15. I like the look of the bare monocoque - looks very well designed. Now all they had to do from that point was hang some series door bottoms on it, rubber wheel arches and a couple of vinyl seat squabs - job done.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy